TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Hello everyone. I am having a bit of an issue with my setup right now. I just got it running about 300 miles again, and I starting to get confused on a cooling problem I am having.

I am unable to run the stock shroud or I definitely would, but I am not sure that is part of my problem anyway.

I have a 13b-re, street ported by bdc, all metal FC radiator (nothing special like koyo or anything) a FMIC, and a 16 inch efan. I am running an e11v2 with the stock coolant temp sensor (that reads +7 F* I have been told)

When I am driving on the freeway just cruising at low RPM (2000 2,500) my temp stays around 198 to 204F. Sometimes they will jump higher for a sec if I get higher in rpm.

When I get into town, even though my efan is going full blast most the time (I fohave it set to turn on at 204 high and 198 low) I have to pull over every 10 mins or so to let it cool off. It will get to about 208 when I will start to pull over. Once before I shut down I got to 210. (that is 203 in real so I should be fine) I know that the temps must be right because my overflow bottle was over flowing.

I have yet to go over 3,500 rpm, and have only hit boost accidentally once. I am not tuned for any boost yet.

I have my undershroud ziptied as so it is hitting the bottom of my radiator, but that is all the ducting I have done for now. I see a little bit of space on the top of the radiator I could fill in with something that might help seal it up more.

Other than that I am stumped. My t04s is water and oil cooled, and the water line coming off the turbo for water return is SUPER Hot. Hotter than the radiator hose for sure. Could this be a problem?

It just came into my mind that .... maybe I have a pinched coolant seal or something, and that just makes me cringe. I guess I should test for that also... somehow.

Anyways, any ideas guys?

Thanks
~Tweak

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Just went out to check to make sure both of my radiator caps were .9 bar, and they were, but one of them had a huge chunk of rubber/plastic missing. Maybe that was making it so there was no pressure allowing steam and such. I hope so anyways. More test will have to be done tomorrow.:/

dregg100

iTrader: (34)

your stock rad could be a real issue. what kind of e-fan do you have?

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

I'd like a pic of the rad with e-fan to get an idea of the coverage its providing. By the sounds of it, the fan's not keeping up given that its not overheating while cruising (with lots of air rushing through the core)

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

With the cooling problems that most rotarys have, why do you:
"I have it set to turn on at 204 high and 198 low" have you fan set points so high?

This is not an LS1 which likes heat, turn them down to about 186F.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

My 13BT with T04S and Greddy 3 row FMIC would run kinda hot occasionally despite a Fluidyne radiator and stock clutch fan. It ended up being a really stubborn air pocket in the system. To fix it, with the engine cold I removed both radiator caps and filled to the very top of the rad (filling from the rad itself, not the filler neck by the thermostat housing). I then squeezed the radiator hoses to push all the bubbles out that I could get at that point.

Then I started the car up (still with both radiator caps off) and let it warm up to operating temperature with the heat fully on, still squeezing the lower radiator hose to try and get every bit of air out of it. Finally once it was warmed up I cut the car off. Then I put the cap on the top of the radiator, topped it off at the filler neck, then filled up the overflow bottle to the fill line. I never had any problems after that. I do recommend you switch on your radiator fan at 185ish as well.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Agree, Mine come up at 180F

To the OP - If the fan its inside of the engine bay (between the radiator and pulleys), make sure that it is pulling air, and not pushing!

I have a black magic fan on my FC (it only covers 3/4 of the radiator), and ran the car without the undercover for a while; and have NEVER ever had a cooling issues.

With a Izusu NPR FMIC, coolant temps went through the roof (210F), with or without the under cover.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

hmmmm ok. I am going to replace the radiator caps and try to get rid of ALL the air in the system first before I try other stuff. I don't have a super large FMIC but it is definitly in the way of flow. Hopefully I can turn my efan activation down lower once I get all the air out of the system. I was forced to have it set high because it would NEVER keep it at the 185. (AND remember my coolant sensor reads 7 degress higher, so the fan wasn't turning on at SUPER high.

Thank you for all the ideas, I will be back with results in less than an hour I hope.

~Tweak

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

if the cap(s) are bad, it'll boil over, pressure raises the boiling point.

thermostat is also on the list, if its new its prolly ok, but it might not hurt to toss it in some boiling water, and watch it open

also i notice that you're saying its running hot while moving, and you stop to cool down. this might indicate poor airflow on the radiator, or a plugged radiator core.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Ok, I just got back from a long drive, and I have some good news.

First I flushed out my coolant, because it had some crisco collecting on the top, and that didn't make me feel good hehe. (crisco from the engine rebuild). I replaced both CAPs, and got rid of all the air bubbles in the system. WOW that took forever. I had little bubbles for a good 20 mins coming up. I ended up turning my efan settings back up to 200 so that the t-stat would open and get all the bubbles out of the radiator.

ANYWAYS, much better. While moving my temps read from 193.5 - 198 ( 186.5 - 191 really), but when I am stopped or in stop and go traffic I am still getting the 199-204 ( 192 - 197 temps, so it is the weak barely shrouded cicle 16inch efan.

I am still a LITTLE worried because I have not been able to really get ON it and think that maybe I will be making a lot more heat redlining and such. Like, if I am having these problems at 3,000 rpm, what's going to happen at 13 psi and 7,000 rpm? O.o I might take the dive and get the koyo radiator anyways.

I was thinking of putting some chemicals into my radiator just to clean it out if possible but I didn't find any that looked that good from the few stores I went to. Is there one you guys recommend, or is there a different process completly on how to clean out a radiator?

Thanks for all the help guys.
~Tweak

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

i think mine is running kidna warm. i have a koyo installed. and the underal panel. im gonna be putting the radiator panels back on and hopefully that will help.
last time i checked i got close to 200F while crusing at highway. my laptop died so i havent been able to check since i installed the underpanel.
oil temps do seem a tad bit cooler though.

rxspeed7

iTrader: (5)

you really need to upgrade the radiator now that your pushing the stock setup way past its effiecencey(sp) i have a afco universal dual pass radiator i got two years back, i have the same exact setup as you and with almost a full year of drift events my coolant temps never have gone over 95* C. if i can find the part number i will post it but heres a pic of my setup

rxspeed7

iTrader: (5)

yeah the part number is 80125N
heres their website http://www.afabcorp.com/AFCO_Dynatec...T&Store_Code=A

you have to make your own upper and lower hoses from the auto parts store or just buy some flex hose but other than that and the price its unbeatable. also another thing not a lot of people know about cooling systems is that the Ph needs to be 10.0 for it to work properly and not cause electralisys(sp). just get some ph test strips from the garden store and make sure you have a good coolant with a 50/50mix with good distilled water. you can buy a additive that will bump up the ph in your coolant to help with the properties in it. also bad grounds can cause electralisys(sp).