Yea, now there might be some cavitation issues but I dont know of a good way to test that really. If it were me I'd probably just try both pullies and see which one works best.

I think I'm going to try out an electric water pump and a Vmount. Should be pretty interesting to see the out come of that.

Stephen

 

One of the claimed advantages is that it "eliminates cavitation". So my starting approach will be to minimize the chance of the belt slipping (a big problem when the air pump is removed) while maintaining high flow. This is all an experiment, so I wouldn't be surprised if I have to change something.

-Max

 

i hear ya max, .... cant wait to see how all the new goodies work out. especially the turbo. I like my apexi, but im open to a equally spolling turbo that flows better.

 

This is what I did for that pesky water pump problem, haven’t got to try it out yet but I will get to it shortly.

The bearings are rated for the speeds and loads the pulley is going to see, though I just don’t think they are going to hold up to extended cycles.

Will see, there is plenty of room on the pulley for larger bulky bearings if these turnout not to be sufficient.

 

That looks like a nice solution to the belt contact issue. I will be very interested to hear how it turns out. Any thoughts of producing and selling the idler pulley setup as a kit?

-Max

 

You know Max I wish I had the time and the resources, but I did it in my spare time as it was.

I think this would be a wonderful thing for Chuck to do though. Maybe if enough people showed interest in it he might consider it, its right up his alley.

I showed it to a few people on NP and there was interest in retaining the stock alt and WP ratio as most of us are not driving in the top of the RPM spectrum, and underdriving really isn’t necessary or beneficial for those of us that use the car for a driver.

Like I said it is more of a prototype right now anyway, though I don’t see why using the right combination of materials wouldn’t make this a very reliable alternative to using the underdrive pulleys. The thing that I like about it, is that it allows me to use off the shelf belts that are readily available, and most product lines carry the size I am using, it’s a fairly common size.

 

Anyone look into fitting a RX8 water pump? The belt goes around the outside edge of the pully on the RX8. Might make for a good swap.

 

Max, as you know I'm also a road racing junkie that has tried nearly everything to keep the car cool - without a lot of custom work. I have a Mazdaspeed replica vented hood. From what I could tell, there was zero impact on water temp. I'm sure it helps a bit, but not nearly enough to have a measurable impact. My C-West nose appears to have had more of an impact, which is what I would expect given the large difference in intake opening size. I have yet to run the car though in extreme temps like I used to though (Thunderhill in August), so it's hard to say with any degree of certainty.

 

I would think the vented hood would help more when the car is stationary.

 

Hey Mike, that's interesting to hear about the vented hood. I would have expected some noticable benefit even without engineering a system around it. I wonder if it helped intake temps at all.

-Max

 

According to Keith my kit arrived at KDR today and should be the last thing needed for my car to be up and running again so I should have it quite soon. I'm very excited.

 

Someone needs to dyno one of these... and soon!

 

On my FC, opening up the nose did little by itself, cantilevering the hood also did little. The combination lowered my temps (both oil, and water) over 30* on a 30 minute session at Infineon. Air in-air out, pretty simple....If you roughly match the frontal opening to the hood vents it will make a large difference if the air is flowing over your oil coolers, and your radiator. Since the air has an easier time entering the nose, the hood vents should be somewhat larger in area than the openings in the nose for max flow. Carl

BTW, removing everything that is in the way is critical, I removed all of the accessories from the nose of the car, and I run a 33x10x3 front mount.

 

Beleive me, once its installed and I break it in which won't take too long since I'm anxious myself, I will have dynosheets up. I have the anti det device on my car from KD and they said that it coupled with the Microtech should allow me to run 20 psi+ so I may get some really nice numbers but I also know the device has messed with dyno numbers before so I'm not sure how much the high boost will help me.

 

Then Call Dee and tell him to finish mine up!!

 

I have already dynoed them before. Wargasm buy one and dyno it yourself that is the only way the dyno police will be happy

 

Hehe... I would but I already have another older turbo as you know ...

 

Get with the times!

 

I have some fantastic swamp land in Florida if your interested?! You should be since you paid $500 for the KDR butt plug anti detonation junk. LOL!!!

 

!?#%!#% OMG 20 PSI THATS A LOT.

you must be all kinds of retarded.

20 psi is pump gas territory without water injection

 

[QUOTE=ErnieT]I have some fantastic swamp land in Florida if your interested?! You should be since you paid $500 for the KDR butt plug anti detonation junk. LOL!!!


hahah does things that they silicone the trailing plugs so they dont fire.........I've seen that **** with my own eyes

 

silicone?

 

I suppose we will see what happens...

 

...and 1 deg of timing

 

13/10 my friend...