problem with a-spec 3574kit
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2009
Location: greece
Posts: 419
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
problem with a-spec 3574kit
guys,
i just instaled my 3574 turbo on an aspec manifold that came with the kit and the turbine housing is only 1/16" away from the chasis .
if i push the engine by hand the mani hits the chasis
please i need your help!
what should i do?
if i leave it that way i supose that the housing will hit the side when i start the engine.
i try to move the engine mount aas i could to the left side but nothing hapens.
i am thinking to make engine mount bolts holes oval so to move the engine farther but thiss is too much work to remove and install again the subframe.
i also think to install a torque dumper and preload it as i can.what do you think of thhat?
i need your advise please and i apreciate your help!
thanks!
i just instaled my 3574 turbo on an aspec manifold that came with the kit and the turbine housing is only 1/16" away from the chasis .
if i push the engine by hand the mani hits the chasis
please i need your help!
what should i do?
if i leave it that way i supose that the housing will hit the side when i start the engine.
i try to move the engine mount aas i could to the left side but nothing hapens.
i am thinking to make engine mount bolts holes oval so to move the engine farther but thiss is too much work to remove and install again the subframe.
i also think to install a torque dumper and preload it as i can.what do you think of thhat?
i need your advise please and i apreciate your help!
thanks!
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2009
Location: greece
Posts: 419
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the engine mount is choosen from a few i have and it is in a good shape.
what if i put a shim underneath or make the subframe holes oval?
is this a problem if the engine rotates a bit on its axis or move left?
thanks.
i canot think what else went wrong besides wrong combination of housing and manifold.
what if i put a shim underneath or make the subframe holes oval?
is this a problem if the engine rotates a bit on its axis or move left?
thanks.
i canot think what else went wrong besides wrong combination of housing and manifold.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2009
Location: greece
Posts: 419
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yes,torque brsce would helped a lot but i still need to make the gap a litle biger.i supose a 1/4" clearence is ok?with torque brace, do i still have some flexibility and engine movement,wright?
how to check if the engine is leveled?
anyone with the same kit?
thanks!
how to check if the engine is leveled?
anyone with the same kit?
thanks!
Trending Topics
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2009
Location: greece
Posts: 419
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Guys,
the engine is tilted towards the pasengers side.the engine mount is compresed and it is shorter that the drivers about 1/8" .
i think this is the problem. i didn t think that a mount must have a specific length. i saw that it was in a good shape externaly and i installed it without any other thought. my mistake.
you helped a lot and i apreciate it.
now i am thinking to purchase or make my own polyurethane mounts but the common desighn i found for the rx7 makes me think the engine noise.
i noticed that the most rx7 engine mounts out there is a piece of polyurethane and a bolt through it.
my questions:
1)how do i get the bolt tight if when i keep tighten it the length sortens?
2)i assume that the nut is imposible to tighten it as much as a normal mount. if i do not tighten the nut too much to distort the material then, is the mout safe?
3)is the polyutrethane strong enouth in time?
4) some guys add a second smaller piece of polyurethan on top of the steel mount. yes that way i eliminate or minimize the transmited noise sinse the steel mount is completely isolated between the poly rings.what is your opinions about that?
5)also thinking a simplest solution to keep mine OEM mounts and simply add washer beneath to raise the pasenger side. but i do not know how durable is the OEM compared to the poly.
what do you think is the best solution? i still have two more mounts that one is smaller 1/8 than the other but externaly is mint.
thanks very mush again.
the engine is tilted towards the pasengers side.the engine mount is compresed and it is shorter that the drivers about 1/8" .
i think this is the problem. i didn t think that a mount must have a specific length. i saw that it was in a good shape externaly and i installed it without any other thought. my mistake.
you helped a lot and i apreciate it.
now i am thinking to purchase or make my own polyurethane mounts but the common desighn i found for the rx7 makes me think the engine noise.
i noticed that the most rx7 engine mounts out there is a piece of polyurethane and a bolt through it.
my questions:
1)how do i get the bolt tight if when i keep tighten it the length sortens?
2)i assume that the nut is imposible to tighten it as much as a normal mount. if i do not tighten the nut too much to distort the material then, is the mout safe?
3)is the polyutrethane strong enouth in time?
4) some guys add a second smaller piece of polyurethan on top of the steel mount. yes that way i eliminate or minimize the transmited noise sinse the steel mount is completely isolated between the poly rings.what is your opinions about that?
5)also thinking a simplest solution to keep mine OEM mounts and simply add washer beneath to raise the pasenger side. but i do not know how durable is the OEM compared to the poly.
what do you think is the best solution? i still have two more mounts that one is smaller 1/8 than the other but externaly is mint.
thanks very mush again.
#10
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Not sure if you got the same kit as me but I bought a kit from A-spec last year and I couldn't install the turbo because it was hitting my frame like so:
I'm a way's away from being able to get it on here
Turbo is a precision 6262 with a 0.84a/r
Not ideal but I ended up having to put a bigass dimple into my car in order to fit the turbo. You can sort of see it here
The downpipe isn't lined up because there was an issue with one of A-spec's jigs and the downpipe was hitting my transmission, but in the end I sent the downpipe back to A-spec and they re-welded it. Said they would but never reimbursed me for my shipping cost though
Mounts are also brand new Himni poly mounts
I'm a way's away from being able to get it on here
Turbo is a precision 6262 with a 0.84a/r
Not ideal but I ended up having to put a bigass dimple into my car in order to fit the turbo. You can sort of see it here
The downpipe isn't lined up because there was an issue with one of A-spec's jigs and the downpipe was hitting my transmission, but in the end I sent the downpipe back to A-spec and they re-welded it. Said they would but never reimbursed me for my shipping cost though
Mounts are also brand new Himni poly mounts
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2009
Location: greece
Posts: 419
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
if i bolt averything the gap is about 1/16".
i dont have the problem like the pic #3. i also have bad engine mount on the passengers side.
if i replace the mount with new i do not think to have problem anymore.
my major concern is that i need to disasemble the subframe again to change the mount.
with all that work i am thinking if it is a good idea to upgrade to poly mounts.
guys, is the durometer 90A too solid?
i ordered the kit april 10 and i get it end of 10.
i dont have the problem like the pic #3. i also have bad engine mount on the passengers side.
if i replace the mount with new i do not think to have problem anymore.
my major concern is that i need to disasemble the subframe again to change the mount.
with all that work i am thinking if it is a good idea to upgrade to poly mounts.
guys, is the durometer 90A too solid?
i ordered the kit april 10 and i get it end of 10.
#16
Eye In The Sky
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: In A Disfunctional World
Posts: 7,909
Likes: 0
Received 123 Likes
on
72 Posts
I had similar problems with my short manifold A-Spec kit, as did other kit suppliers a few years ago. It was "known" that you may have to take a hammer to the metal and bend it to your will.
So many variable with old cars with old parts.
So many variable with old cars with old parts.
#17
Eye In The Sky
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: In A Disfunctional World
Posts: 7,909
Likes: 0
Received 123 Likes
on
72 Posts
Remove the turbo IC hoses, loosen the nuts holding the mounts to the subframe, jack up the engine/trans watching for other hoses or lines being stretch,
loosen and remove the mounts.
I remove and install engines without the mounts attached as it gives about 4" more clearance and makes it easier to align to the trans.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
73
09-16-18 07:16 PM
The1Sun
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
7
09-18-15 07:13 PM