The issue with the stock wiring is the gauge...too thin. Thin wire = voltage drop = bad for fuel delivery. Why rewire to the battery if you aren't going to run all the way to the pump? IMHO you have the right idea. Think about ring terminals at the cover for the new wiring and then skip the thin-as-a-hair stock wiring and go stroght to the pump itself.
FWIW I mounted the relay in the tool bin area.
Take a peek at my setup: http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/fddualfuelpumps.htm
(halfway down the page)
Regards,
Crispy

BTW engine is looking good!

 

thanks Crispy. ill run fatter gauge wire to the pump from the battery. I have all the equipment to do it better. First time for everything. You guys are helping me avoid the frequent initial problems. Thank god for a community lol

I guess i could mount the relay in the bin then... hmmm.

 

This is what you want...

Good luck with your build!

 

on an "alternate" build topic, i want to kiss Damian for his old school thread on holding the two leads down while rebuilding your alternator. I stared at my alternator for an hour saying to myself "they would have made it easy to rebuild" over and over. thanks to damian for that.

 

Oooo...link to that thread please! Couldn't find it using the search function.
TIA
Crispy

PS sorry for the hijack

 

It's hard to find cause the goofball totally misspelled alternator

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=Alternator

 

Awesome! Thanks. LOL yeah no wonder I couldn't find it!!!
I have a spare set of polished alternator housings but was too afraid to tear apart the new one sitting on my workbench because of this "problem." Not anymore.
Regards,
Crispy

 

so i posted this in the 3rd gen area, but its a build pic. i was about to mount my engine when i found my engine mount in this condition. If anyone has any for sale PM me. used or new, im not too concerned. just in good condition.

 

I've broken two PPF's using the stock mounts, although in fairness I don't use a torque brace. The solid poly ones (forum GB) had just way too much NVH for me, so now I'm using the Banzai ones. They hold the motor in place with a barely visible amount of movement, and they're not ridiculous like my first ones. Just sharing my experience.

Thanks for taking the time to share your build with us.

Josh

 

oh, and if you do crack your PPF, Dont waste your time and money buying a new one. just weld it. I welded mine and its fine. afterall, a weld is stronger then the metal.

I have a welder too, if you need it just pm me.

 

Good to know guys. I wondered what could happen.

Update:
malloy Mazda got me a pilot bearing seal. Ty Ty Ray. New loyal customer now.
Banzai sold me an OMP block off plate. Thank u guys as always.
Grimple1 hooked me up with a stock motor mount. I'll probably go with RP performance mount after everything is done
I got my upgraded radiator in. I polished it.

I'll get pics up. On my iPhone.
I also got my polished alternator in. After I trashed mine lol

Putting the engine in tomorrow.

Waiting on oil feed and return lines before I can idle the beast.

Buying those bulkhead connectors to fully rewire the fuel pump :-D

 

Motor mounts are not very fun to do while in the car. You already have the engine out, don't cut corners now. With the single turbo you are just going to tear the OEM driver's side mount apart in couple of days of hard driving. Look what happed with stock twins. http://banzai-racing.com/store/FD_po...or_mounts.html

stock mounts



two steel bracket oprion

 

As for the adapters cone crusher posted I have them in hand and when I spoke to Earl's about the case they said they can be used but they "can not recommend them" at anything above 50 psi.

To further the case the anplumbing.com says that these are good to 61 psi and says it has even seen them goto 200 psi! But because of all the disagreement I went with some less than blingtastic barbed adapters.

 

 

 

 

 

Okay, so there might be some duplicates, but you get the idea. Those are my brothers in the pictures. God they are ugly. my apologies...

Very exciting St Valentines day night, i spent with my true love, Rexxy.

The UIM was placed softly on for mockup pics.

I have so much to do, its not funny. But it sure as hell is fun. No hang ups, everything fitting well. Starting a shopping list though. I will definately need guidance on the custom fab work for the turbo to IC pipe. i have a local shop to make it, but thats it.

The turbo does not allow the coolant line from the interior heater to fit in its OEM spot wow didnt expect that one. thats all cool tho.

 

All look s great and is coming together nicely.

One word of warning however:

ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS COVER THOSE INTAKE RUNNERS WHEN WORKING ON THE CAR!!!!

Drop something down one of those runners and you are hosed. Take it from me...I know.
Reed and heed: http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/disaster.htm

Regards,
Crispy

 

:-O i totally forgot about that! Thanks for the reminder!
Rob

 

Okay, what do you guys think about the turbo outlet to the IC? i have no fabrication experience. do you guys have some insight into the pieces of metal needed to make that pipe?

 

Go to the local hardware store and buy a bunch of PVC piping with a number of elbows, couplers, and bends that you think might work.

Construct the piping using the PVC piping you want to use. If you are satisfied how it all wroks and looks then go shopping for aluminum piping to use with the correct bends. burnsstainless.com is a decent source. Keep in mind AL tubing and mandrel bends ain't cheap. Then it's just cut and weld.
FWIW: http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/gt35rpage4.htm

Good Luck,
Regards,
Crispy

PS I have a bunch of tubing and bends so lemme know what you need and maybe we can work something out.

 

@ the coolant line issue. Take a look at Rich's (Goodfella) coolant hose routing for some reference. Appears to be a rubber hose (wrapped in thermal barrier tape) routed upward to a 90degree bend, clamped, and routed to a final rubber hose (again w/ thermal barrier tape).

 

thats funny that you mention Rich's setup. i PMd him after looking at Deals Gap pics and saw he had a blitz. my radiator hose that connects to the thermostat housing is painfully between the fan assembly and turbo filter.

 

looks like for the hot-side you'd need a 90degree silicone elbow, a short straight pipe, and a standard silicone straight coupler. You might need a silicone reduction coupler instead of the standard coupler but you'd have to measure the turbo out vs. the intercooler in.
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant..._Code=SIL-90EL


cold-side is more difficult to tell. you going to use the Greddy elbow?