Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

Hi Guys,

Long story short: If I ever sell my TII I'm going to turbocharge the 6-port engine in my GTUs(S5 car for those who don't know).

So, I've had this plan for a while and I've been storing parts for a friend which he's probably never going to use. In the stack of parts is a turbo which he said I could utilize if I wanted.

I did some research and found a guy with one that has the same marking and found this:
He's says it's a T-70 knockoff. If I do the 6-port build I'm going to be shooting for 300-350WHP, and I'll be running a standalone EMS with a properly sized fuel system. I plan on reatining the N/A manifolds and blocking off all unnecessary components.

My questions are:
Is this turbo crap, or would it be okay to use it? I don't need anything stellar right away.
Will it lag like hell, and is it too big for my application?
Does anyone know what the exhaust flow rate is for an S5 6-port N/A engine? I found the flow rate for a Turbo engine on FC3SPro but I want to be able to make an accurate projection if I can find a close enough compressor map.

Thanks fellas.

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

Sorry for the huge pics, wife is rushing me.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

sounds like a GT35 knockoff after some quick research. if it was a true garrett it would have an allied-signal product tag on the CHRA.

might be ok, might be a big pile of dog ****. only way to know is to run it or pitch it into the can. seeing how old it looks, being a knockoff i would probably say ditch it.

REAmemiya_fan

From what I've read, if you run a larger turbo and use low levels of boost, since the turbine will be working less (creating less heat charging the incoming air into the engine) the two side effects would be a faster spool as well a small increase in power. The thread is titled something like "is 10psi on a single the same as 10psi on a twin?"

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

it all depends on the efficiency of the turbos, being a cheap turbo it is likely to have a bit more drag and be less efficient which in turn hurts spool time.

being that it is a series 5 n/a with 9.7:1 compression the engine would spool even the doggiest of turbos quite quick. but it is also the biggest ticking timebomb of an engine setup you can use.

if it was a series 4 i might just say "do it". parts for those s4 6 port engine are a dime a dozen still, S5 n/a rotors however are not.

REAmemiya_fan

I've got a whole s4 6 port NA engine (just the shortblock) that I'm selling for $150 if you want to hop on that. Besides the fact that the center iron would need replaced, your s5 one would work better anyway.

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

Any idea on exhaust flow rate?

I was originally planning on using something along the lines of a T04B or GT35R so I'd have quicker spool, but you really think it won't have a problem spinning this "T70" up?

The engine is a Reman w/ 16k on it. It needs an oil pan gasket done, but I figured I'd wait and see if I got this project off the ground so I could block off the OMP, start pre-mixing and change oil the OPR and oil pump to a turbo one all at the same time.

Any reccomendation on an EMS, and will it be a bitch to tune if I keep the VDI?
I've searched the forum about turboing a 6-port, and have found very little information on actually keeping the N/A manifolds and VDI. Everyone switches over to TII manifolds(I can understand why).

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

If a mod comes in here, can you please edit my thread and take away the IMG code? The pics are too big, I don't think people will mind clicking on the thumbnails. Thank you.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

not sure on the flow rate. the T4 flange is right, .84 A/R turbine section is a little restrictive, with .96 or higher being ideal as a starting point.

will take alot of work to keep the n/a manifold, i honestly don't even recall the last build that retained it.

as for EMS, there's plenty. just about any brand that is listed in the EMS section with various series working fine for rotaries. microtech is actually the easiest to install and setup IMO but also with simplicity comes simplicity, as it is the oldest tech on the market.

BUT with the high compression rotors also comes the risk, if you plan on running pump fuel then even the 10psi figure is going to be into detonation rotary killing territory with that engine compression. you can run E85, race gas or water injection to make it safer. in the order of safest to least safe would be 1)race/av gas 100+, 2) E85 (~97 octane, octane also fluctuates pump to pump and season to season) 3) water injection(no rating).

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

I think I'll ditch this one and go with a T04B based turbo, its seems like it would be a better fit and safer.
Thanks for your help Karack.