aiight fellas, I have a ???/ for all the big tuner guys on the forum. I am going to a twin setup and I want to know which ones can I get the best power out of. Note, when I say best power I dont mean the max hp at some rpm that I will be at for a fraction of a second, I need something that will make BIG hp from around 5500 - 9000 rpms. I am using a 13bt thats built for high boost. There are the turbos I was looking at.

Remember this will be a twin setup.
T04bs?
T04Es?
60-1 std
Mitsu 17c 25 G
twin 62-1s

Or should I keep my T-76 setup I already have? My car is backhalfed with 29.5 x 13.5" tires and I want to go very very very fast. I am looking for mid 8 sec times. According to my egine builder, I can run up to 40 psi on the motor, but I am looking to stay around 30. Which set of turbos should I go with to run 30 psi boost or get 600 hp at the wheels?

 

if you leaned it out, gave it **** and pinged it till the cows came home, i reckon you could blow your motor at 10psi, if an engine builder says "the motor can handle Xpsi boost" you seriously have to ask yourself if the guy actually knows what the hell he is on about if he thinks psi is the downfall of the engine

 

HKS twin GT 3040 or 3037 either one you can make 600 rwhp
the 3040 you can make way over 600

 

High boost will crack **** in the rotor housing regardless if there is detonation or not. Thats why I had the extra dowl pins installed. His 8 sec starlet runs high boost and I was using that as an exapmple. I know that its all in the tuning and all that cute stuff. I just want an opinion on what turbo will better suit my needs for the best possible times

 

Hey Greg....

Whats wrong with the T-76? A turbonetics T-76 with the right exhaust housing and turbine wheel can easily support 900hp.

 

I know but I think that I would get better off the line responce with the smaller turbos. I think I might end up keeping the 76 cause of the brute power that thing can make at 35 psi!!

 

GREG !!!!!!

I Have the perfect turbos for you

Two T04E P-trim with 60-1 wheels and .70 A/R exhaust housings or .58 A/R. Turbos were built by TEC for my 20B 3 rotor engine aiming for 750-800RWH.

Both are brand new, still wrapped !!! $ 1500.00

John D.

 

for both? i might be interested in that!

 

i think if you ask Peter or Cris you'll find out thats not the case.

Cris reckons 700rwhp ( i think thats how much he said) before you need extra dowels)

Now you could run a smaller turbo, like a hybridized S5 turbine with a huge compressor, blow thru 25psi+ and only make 500-600HP and provided you dont ping you wont blow anything with the exception of your underwear.

 

Chris was the one that recomended that I get the extra dowl pins after 500rwhp. I have seen up to 750 rwhp with the turbo that I use on 13b applications and they all use the extra dowls to increase reliability. There is only so much boost pressure that aluminum can take without reinforcements, especially on the 13bt motor which tends to crack the rear upper driver side housing under higher boost pressures. On my old Rx7 (87 t2) I had the Tso4 turbo at 12:1 A/F at around 23 lbs boost with no sign of detonation and the rear upper housing by the dowl area cracked like an egg after about 10 runs at the track. There was no internal damage to anything, the only problem was the cracked aluminum under the pressure. The 13bt rotor housings arent as strong as the 13b rew or the 13b re motors that come so plentyful over there. But, as long as the puerto rican racers use the extra dowls I will too

 

My engine did the same thing last year. No sign of detonation whatsoever. With just my 60-1 Hi-Fi running around 450 at the flywheel, the rear housing right there by the dowel cracked. Blasted pressurized oil everywhere, including out the hood - up the windshield - and onto the cars behind me. The car ran like a raped ape when it happened though It got WAY sideways on me going into 2nd and a bit in 3rd.

That was with a 13bt block with no reinforcements.

 

How Much boost pressure were you pushing?

 

It was just the wastegate regulating pressure, so probably hit 14 psi when it snapped. I guess it's possible it could have detonated, but I never heard it and nothing indicated that it did.

 

450 FWH @ ~ 14 psi !!!

most likely from detonation rather then hp or boost pressure.

I push 500+RWH or near 600 FWH with out Nos and with no
extra dowls !!!

It'sery noticeble that the housings have moved a bit but I assume not enough to break something.

I simply sleeve each tension bolt and where the rotor housing meet the side housing the sleeves always shows signs of movement.

I broke three rear plates in the past at the dowel pin and since I tuned the car on the dyno I have yet to break any..

John D

 

Ryan and Greg, what apex seals did you have in when you cracked plates??

 

lol
BOOSTD7
Boostn 7
THEYRE TWINS!@$!@$!@$!@$!@$

 

I had the 1st gen 3mm apex seals

 

3mm seals, they are are stronger than the area around the top dowel when it comes to a quick ping.

Why is it around 90% of guys who crack plates are running 3mm seals or tougher 2mm seals? cracking plates has to do with pinging, weather you can find proof of it apon dissasmbley or not.

seals
plates
rotors

the list of weak points in out engines when pinging occurs.
upgrade one and the next one will go if it is bad enough pinging.