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Which fluidyne model is that? Part number? How much was it and where did you get it?

 

The large aluminum block is not a distribution block, it is the oil t-stat.
The fitting at the top of the oil cooler is just a -6an cap/plug.

Here is the Summit parts list which includes all the essential fittings for the oil cooler along with a t-stat and it's minimum required fittings.
The -10an line and hose ends are not included on the list. How you plumb it is up to you.

Note:
With the -12an to -10an flare reducers, you need to chop off about a 1/3" of the -12 side so the 37' angle seats seal. Otherwise you end up bottoming the reducer out on the endtank and it won't seal properly. I won't tell you how I know this.


AER-FBM3687
Fittings, Internal Allen Head Pipe Plug, 3/8 in. NPT, Aluminum, Blue Anodized, Pair
$6.50 x 2
EAR-501ERL
Remote Oil Thermostat, Aluminum, Dual -10 AN Female Inlets, Dual -10 AN Female Outlets, Each
$90.69
EAR-592906ERL
Fitting, Cap, -6 AN, Aluminum, Blue Anodized, Pair
$3.50
EAR-985010ERL
Fitting, Straight, Male -10 AN to Straight Cut Male -10 AN O-Ring, Aluminum, Blue, Each
$13.88 x 4
EAR-989410ERL
Fitting, Flare Reducer, Female -12 AN to Male -10 AN, Aluminum, Blue, Each
$22.95 x 2
FLD-DB30618
Fluid Cooler, Engine/Transmission, Plate-Type, Aluminum, Natural, 5 7/8 in. x 21 in. x 3 in., Each
$314.99

For reference:
Stock Oil cooler dimensions
Length (including endtanks) 22.5"
Length (core only) 19.75"
Height 4.5"
Width 2"

 

Awesome. Thanks for the part numbers. But why reduce to -10. You can buy the fittings to fit as -12? ) I guess for the oil thermostat. I was thinking of not running it.

Also another question. Why the 4 lines into the oil thermostate?

Also do you have picture that show how you used the exisiting bracket assemble?

Thanks

 

I think this is how it works. Since the unit is external you need the following ports.

1. Input from motor's oil pump
2. output from thermostat to oil cooler
3. Main exit
4. Oil cooler return oil (cooled oil).

Without number 4, you would need to run a T to goto the motor so that either bypassed oil not at high temp and cooled oil can go back to the motor...

See pics

 

nice setups on both of yalls parts however what made yall do this? I mean where the temps all that high with no other way of getting them under control or is this just an overkill for reliability type thing?

 

I had problems with temps going up to 120C easy in street driving (well, highway)
By that time i had poor ducting, but i decided to run 2 coolers as car is used more for drifting where it really needs 2 coolers.

What you see in my pictures is install which i did in few hours from parts i found at shop. There was no planning or shopping, just one free afternoon. I know parallel is supposed better design, but this is what i was able to do in one day from parts i had laying around. Its been 2 years since and it works good, no reason to change it

For the price and effort, you cant beat it

 

I believe it's a problem when you have a fmic blocking some of the air and you are making around double the horsepower over stock.

 

well I just so happen to have two oil coolers in the garage so I may do this as well. I'm going to through one on that came out of a 50k original mile car and if that doesn't get my temps undercontrol it looks like higgi's setup is more fit for my, how shall we say....budget

 

Where do these fittings go?
EAR-985010ERL
And those pipe plugs?

I was just sitting down going to order all of this stuff and noticed that you can order summit house ends? Good or bad idea. They are cheaper.

Also wonder how bad it would be if I skipped out on the idea of that thermostat. That block and fittings is as much as that oil cooler.

 

EAR-985010ERL are the -10an fittings with o-rings that thread into the oil-t-stat block. You need four of them for any type of t-stat. There are many brands that offer -an fittings. all will work together since they all share the smae 37' angle for the seat. get what you can afford. Often the only difference is the quality of the anodizing. Many seal the fitting to the hose in different ways but as long as they seal is all that matters.

The pipe plugs, or actually only one of them is needed to plug an accesory hole in the oil cooler near one of the inlets/outlets on the side. Alternatively, you could plumb a mechanical (or electrical with some adapters) oil temp or oil pressure gauge into the bung.

There are many other oil t-stats available and for much cheaper too. I chose the Earls part because I liked the look of it and it has three 1/8 npt ports for accessories like pre and post oil temps plus oil pressure.

If you drive your car on the street, I highly recommend using the t-stat. It is also recommended that an oil pressure bypass be used to relieve pressure when the oil is cold. If you romp on the gas while the oil is cold without a bypass you could see in excess of 250 psi in some cases which is not good. I did not use a bypass since I always let my car warm up before i get into it.

 

I know this is an old thread, but I decided to replace the beehive in my 12A with a FMOC and also go with aftermarket cooler similar to RX-Haven. I'm going with a Rotary-Shack FMOC with built in -10an fittings and the Earls 501erl oil thermastat. Once I get the parts installed, I'll do a write-up for the 12A guys.

I wish someone made an aftermarket FMOC that you could just put the factory therastat into.

This site came in handy with some good information.

http://www.lucubration.com/cozy13bt/cooling

 

I made a mistake in this last post. I purchased the FMOC from Rotary-Works, not Rotary-Shack. I've never done business with Rotary-Shack before. If a mod reads this please feel free to change my last post to Rotary-Works.