I am in the process of my GT35R build for my FD. I purchased the Ultimate Fuel System from Rx7 store.

I am in the preliminary stages of how things will all go together as I am waiting to get my IM's back from being Ceramichromed.

However, I was wondering how you all are addressing fitting braided line from the OEM feed & returns that come off of the firewall.

I was thinking of utilizing these fittings....

http://97.74.103.94/files/tube.pdf

It's the flair-less AN Tube sleeve nuts on the right. Simply cut off the flares & attach the fitting.... too easy?

I was planning to give them a call to get their pressure rating to see if it would work. I have also heard of people just using 2 hose clamps over the OEM line, but I wasn't sure if this was a good idea either. Seemed to defeat the purpose of using quality fittings to have it rigged at the firewall.

Opinions????

Thanks all

 

I'm actually in the same process, I'm using Earls fittings though. What are you using to cut the flares off without warping the lines?

 

i am doing the same thing. the oem lines are 5/16" (-5AN). i will be using the oem rubber line going to a barbed fitting which converts from -5 to -6 and then using pushlok fittings and hose.

 

Earl's only recommends this up to 50psi.

I have them didn't use them.

 

Hmmm, thanks for the heads up. I'll have to look into this now.

 

the unpretty solution is to clamp the AN hose to the hardlines. I've had mine like this for a couple years now. Again, you won't get any props for it but it works and it's not too noticeable.

 

I never really imagined the lines would warp. I just planned to hit them with my Dremel cutting wheel. Any small amount of warping should be pushed out by the fitting when tightened down.

 

I hear ya man...... I will explore other options, but I have heard of this working. It's quick, easy, and like you said, not too noticeable.

 

Garfinkle makes an 6an adapter that you braze onto the stock rigid line.

Here in the picture is the fitting, between the braided hose and the 90 degree elbow.
you can buy the brazing rods at any local plumbing supply,just make sure they are the white flux covered rods and not copper brazing rods.

 

Never brazed anything.... I take it I could use a standard propane torch to do this?

Also, with the lines on the firewall, would there be a risk of the fumes in the line igniting during this process?

I may hit up Garfinkle on these fittings. Thanks!

I know there are a lot of guys out there with -AN fuel setups...... Any other options?

 

The less ghetto looking method for clamping 6AN hose to the factory line: http://www.racepartssolutions.com/products.asp?cat=19

 

^
you put on a -6 hose on your factory hard line? there is nothing wrong with doing that if you're using pushlok hose. i'm thinking of putting -5 to -6 converting barb just to make a tight fit.

 

I do like those......

Thank you

 

I took a 6AN hose and cut it to length (no fitting on the end). Then I took a hose clamp from the auto parts store and clamped the hose right over the factory hard line. It's not exactly show-quality but it's been like that for over two years and hasn't leaked.



This accomplishes the same thing but it's a cleaner look.

 

^ same here. And FWIW, one of drawbacks of a worm clamp, the wearing on the hose factor, is negated when you're using it on a hose witha woven SS covering.

There's all kinds of ways to skin that cat, just depends on how much money you want to spend on fittings and how much time you feel like wasting on one connection. I wouldn't really consider it a "ghetto" or "rigged" connection, given that there are plenty of clamped connections on the car elsewhere in the fuel system.

Also, for the poster who was asking about how to cut the flares off the line - I would probably recommend you use a tube cutter. You know, given that you are cutting tube A dremel can leave rough edges that you have to smooth off, and could potentially blow something up given that you're cutting a metal line full of gas vapours with a tool that will create sparks. Ideally, the flare should actually be left on as it will help hold the line on as it swells under pressure (which was the purpose of that flare originally)

But what do I know........

 

There's nothing wrong with the above mentioned way, but if you're ever going to buy one, just buy a 37 degree flaring tool now and get the proper flare nuts. That way you know it's done right, and get bragging rights.

 

I wouldn't recomend this. Mainly because it puts crap in the fuel line but also because it doesn't leave a very straight cut to flare to. The proper tool to use is a small pipe cutter, these can be had for about $10. If you decide to use a cut off wheel, make sure to blow out the line with some compressed air (from tank to engine).

-J

 

I do have access to a flaring tool. I will ponder how to tackle it.

I do really appreciate the input.

Thanks all.

 

just make sure it's a 37 degree flare tool, not your standard brake line 45 degree single or double flare.

 

Here's another thread on the same topic from a few years ago. I had my fuel lines flared and it works well.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/stock-hard-fuel-lines-ss-braided-706414/

- Andy