Okay, well i shouldn't say rough together. I'm going to be rebuilding this spring and the builder is extremely partial to single setups. Initially i was going to run the twins parrallel and aim for around 350 whp on a street port. (I guess i should mention it's an fd, so series 6 engine. I guess this part of the forum isn't 3rd gen specific). Now i'm really considering just manning up and seeing what I can piece together over the couple months i have.

So given that I would would be going single, i've started from scratch. I set my power goal at 400 whp. The issue with this, is that i'm on a bit of a budget so i can't really just go and drop 5k on a "kit" from a store. Instead i've been looking into some quality lightly used parts.

Ideally, i think i would want a gt35 but there is nothing in my price range. So i've been watching the classifieds section like a hawk, and a borg warner s360 came up for an extremely reasonable price. There is a dyno showing 436 whp i believe and from what i have read on it, i think i would be very happy with it.

So aside from that, i'm wondering about supporting mods.
Obviously a manifold and a downpipe, but for fuel mods. It's going to be tuned on power fc , and i would like to continue using my current fuel pump. It's the rotary performance one which according to the website is good to 400 whp. Obviously this is pretty close to my goal so if i was running slightly lower numbers, i wouldn't be upset.

Then obviously injectors. From what i've read, the primaries are generally left alone for builds like this so the car idles properly. But secondaries. I really have no idea how to pick. I was thinking i could just go 1600cc and if it's overkill, just say oh well and run them at a smaller duty. I've also heard a few times saying this would require a restrictor? I looked into it but couldn't find the information i thought i was looking for.

Then ignition. Some people suggest a spark amplifier, some say it's not necessary at this point. When do i start looking into this?

I have a lot of stuff to figure out, and maybe its just a pipe dream right now but I appreciate the help
Thanks again guys

 

Whats your Budget?
Do you have a ECU to run this?

its sure easier buying a kit already made, but like you said some of those kits are heavy on price for the reason that there isnt any guess work on your side, I built my own kit with a

Long runner stainless stell divided manifold twin 38mm tial wastegates by Elliot at Turblown
Borg Warner S366 .91
custom made 3.5 down pipe by local shop.
built my own oil lines and wastegate plumbing.



cost was around 2900.00

injector you could use the stock 550 for idle and you could use the 1680 for sec,but you will need resistor on them, or you could use the Bosch 2000 no resistor required.

 

Hey, thanks for the reply.
I'm curious why the 1680 cc would need a resistor but not the 2000? Intuitively, I would expect it to be the other way around.

Yes, I already have the power fc. Actually, I pretty much have everything except the turbo components, and injectors. I've even accounted for the price of a tune in the cost of the rebuild. I should probably mention as it's probably relevant that i'll be running the aem water meth kit. (stage 1? it's not the fully tunable one.)

Ideally, i would like to keep the price for everything under the 2000 dollar mark. I know this is a long shot but i feel everything can be done.

Turbo - 500
manifold - 350
injectors + rail - 500
downpipe could probably have it made for 100 bucks
wastegate (assuming i would need one) - 200

These are just approximates that i could try to stick with
I already have a suitable bov that i would get the shop to put on a charge pipe but this cost has already been accounted for.

I have a front mount, nice high flow rad, full exhaust, power fc, so this is sort of where i'm looking to save in that 2000 budget.


The last thing that might be the deal breaker is the clutch. Its an F1 stage 2 clutch thats seen 14 000 kms. (9000 ish miles). I know this is relatively new but even last summer running maybe a bit upwards of 300 whp, it was slipping in 4th gear pulls. That being said, it wouldn't be overly difficult to just avoid those lame pulls altogether.

 

the 1600cc's are low-impedence, Injector Dynamic's ID2000's are high impedence (and thus don't require resistors) This is due to the injector drivers on Power FC's. There's nothing wrong with 1600 secondaries, and they will be much more abundant to find with rails second-hand, and also cheaper.

You can stick with your fuel pump, just make sure that it is maintaining fuel pressure under full boost/rpm. If you have any problems with it delivering, you can simply add a Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump to boost pump voltage, and get more flow out of it.

Are you going to build the manifold yourself? $350 is a little low even for a good used manifold, unless you're planning on buying the e-bay stuff. Just remember that a quality built used manifold is better than a new junk manifold. If you really want to cheap out, you could go with the HKS cast manifold.

$500 is a fair price for a used journal bearing turbo, just be mindful to get one that has a large enough turbine (preferably T4-framed) to be rotary-friendly. A 60-1 with a p-trim is an old-school, but effective and fairly cheap combination, good for up to nearly 500whp.

A clutch is going to pretty much be a necessity, I would budget for it right off the bat otherwise you will regret it when you have a new setup and power that you aren't able to use.

Wastegate will be necessary, and will depend on which manifold you use. I don't know what kind of luck people have had with cheap e-bay units, but I wouldn't recommend them. Again, better off with a name brand (like TiAl) second-hand then a knock-off brand new.


Oh and I forgot to mention, if your budget is absolutely firm, hold off on going single. Costs will always add up for fittings, lines, fabrication, and expenses come out of nowhere. If you can't afford another 25% extra on your budget if need be, better off to wait until you can.

 

trots is right on the extra cost of things adding up. i am in the process of doing a single conversion and just the lines and fittings to convert my fuel rails on my s4 were $430. it hurt to press checkout on the jegs website

 

But, to save cost you can visit a local hydraulics shop as often as possible for steel 37* JIC fittings instead of the super-expensive aluminum -AN fittings online. Functionally there is no difference between the two.

 

Buy this one, call it a day!

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-rx-7-1993-2002-parts-99/single-turbo-kit-975830/

 

Interesting. What exactly happens with the wastegate when less than 15 psi is run?
Is it compatible with rhd? might be interested