Would this be the same for a TT car, i.e.: trust the boost guage before the PFC commander? I've been told the opposite.

 

There is a pressure difference due to the intercooler. Your gauge if connected to the lim or uim should read lower than a connection to the compressor.

However, where is the Apexi boost control kit's source for boost, is it the 3 bar map sensor which is from a manifold source. In other words the SOLENOID could be connected to the compressor housing but the Apexi 3 bar SENSOR is connected to the manifold. If this were the case ideally the values between the gauge and the PFC would be the same.

It has been reported in the PFC section that the PFC reads low.

 

Autometer mechanical gauge vacuum line is connected to the extension manifold.

Apexi boost control(er) kit's solenoid is connected to turbo compressor snail.

Apexi (Denso) 3-bar map sensor is connected but I do not know if the settings for it were redone at tuning. 3-bar just replaces the 2-bar in it's location, so it should have the same vacuum line to the uim.

 

Based on your setup the boost readings should be nearly identical. However as I stated there has been some concern about the PFC’s boost readings accuracy but I believe those concerns were based on the 2 bar sensor.

I had an Autometer that read about 2 psi higher than the PFC and my Profec as well as another gauge, without calibration there is no way to determine which is correct. I decided to send the Autometer back and it was replaced with one that reads relatively close to others.

Autometer had great customer service and quick turnaround.

If you are using the Apexi boost control kit with the PFC….. I believe the correct PIM setting for the Apexi Boost Control kit is option 1.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/power-fc-forum-47/what-does-your-pfc-read-boost-when-engine-off-251387/

 

^ ack, thanks for the link but it sounded like Russian rocket science to me.

Allthough, it did make me look at the base reading on both mechanical Autometer and PFC (using the commander)...
Engine off:
gauge is +1lbs
PFC is -30kg/2.
Engine on @ idle:
gauge is -12 (vacuum)
PFC is -410mmhg

 

this thread makes my head hurt.

 

That's quite a discrepancy. In this case, your guage is telling you that you have a weak motor, your pfc is saying that you have a strong motor.

what idle rpm?

my readings are approx 12 inches on my defi link II gauge and -330 mmHg on my commander at 900 rpms. I have a motor I heavily ported, with overlap between intake and exhaust which lowers vacuum. My compression specced out at 104 psi across all faces, which is pretty good considering 9k miles on engine seals and 50k on rotor housings.

i used to have an autometer, and it was an inaccurate piece of junk. It consistently read 1 psi too high, which in retrospect may have helped keep my motor healthy, lol.

 

I have my idles set at 750, 850 & 950. I don't think I have a large extended port because there is no brapy brap. I think it's just a regular street port with intake cleanup. I punched it today passing a big rig and hit .82kg/2 (did I read that right? wtf) according to the PFC. The gauge mooves to quick and is not recordable. I will have to get some Defi link stuff or something equivialant.

Since my boost controller is integrated with the PFC, I have to go by what it says. If i'm having boost spikes, i've got to trace that down. I would have thought my 46mm wastegate was big enough to compensate for my strait pipe.

It was insane hot today and no a/c. You guys that remove a/c are just plain wacko!!! Normaly my temps are pretty consistant 84-86c but today they were 90-93c and my oil pressure was about 100 - 110. I will switch back to 10-30 tomorrow and in the future I will finish my dual oil cooler setup but this time I will use dual thermostats to keep the temps as consistant as possible.

 

Need Fender rolling and oil cooler bracket help:

* Something took out my 24row oil cooler and it's somewhere all voer the 57 fwy. My car is too low and Mazdatrix lost my wrenches (and dampening adjustement screwdriver). I don't have anyone willing to lend them to me and I have no money left. So since I can't raise the car I have to figure out how to roll the fenders some other way because I can no longer afford the gas in my truck which I can't sell because my mazda is not reliable.

* also if anyone has any pics or help fabing some cheap home depot/leftover parts brackets to hold my 19row cooler please post.

Any help is appreciated. thank you!

 

Tell MazdaTrix they need to buy you new coilover spanners. Lost your stuff? WTF is that?

 

Wait, what exactly happened to your oil cooler?

 

Well the car is too low. I paid M'Trix to raise the car for me because the tow truck was waiting for me and I had to just throw them on. He said he raised it to 24.5" (race hight) but that is too low for street (only one finger gap). I use two finger gap for street otherwise you can not clear speed bumps and your front end smashes in to dips.

So two things hang too low: 1. dump pipe on 500R is at least 1" to low and I will have to pay a fabiricator to resolve that (allready spoke with them). 2. 24row Mocal was upside down for fitment issues. On every dip and driveway it hit and scraped badly.

I ran over something I didn't see on the freeway and since I had titanium piping the weakest link was the aluminum brackets that snapped off. The cooler then snapped off at the fittings and that is all that was left.

So now I am trying to fab up my 19row with whatever I have leftover in the garage. I will still scrape the dump pipe since I can't raise the car but at least I won't be killed by oil under the tires.

My passenger fender is f'd up real good and I don't have a fender roller. SInce the car is too low I can't use the kids aluminum bat trick. I can fit a metal pipe at most.

 

GoRacer,
Get that car set to 25" at the fender lips, minimum. Any lower starts to be a detriment to handling, even on track.

Also, I have the CWR oil cooler kit w/ 19 rows, but the fittings hang underneath. I noticed that the tow hook/mount underneath hangs lower, and effectively would protect the fittings against a bottom out. I've also got the underside plastic on. I'd suggest both if you don't have them. One of my winter projects is relocating the fittings to the top.

 

I had the 24row and had planned on switching to the 19row with the thermastat still underneath as you did and raise it above the tie down (tow hook) since mine was about the same hight. The problem was driveways and dips since my tie downs are now bent the fittings (will have to show a pic to beleive it). The worst for that setup was left turns on to driveway (gas stations mostly). Oh and yes, seems to be more understeer lower then 25".

Oh, I almost forgot. Can someone confirm if front cover is oil return? I called Mocal for thermostat directions and I think piston engines are backwrds because he kept saying the front cover was outlet and not return. was told: spring (side) from black to cooler and rod side is cooler return. I don't have the instructions, cd is at work and manual was destroyed from garage water damage.

 

The oil pump picks up the oil out of the pan and then pumps past the regulator and out the front cover(supply/outlet). then through the filter/cooler etc. then goes into the rear plate where it travels done the back and into the rear bearings and into the e shaft. hope this helps.

CJG

 

^ thank you very much, yes that did help.

My apologies to John (M'Trix) as he had allready found my spanner wrenches and I picked them up today. I was really upset with someone I thought was a friend but when I asked to borrow his spanner wrenches he said no becuase they were new and didn't want them scratched and couldn't trust me with a $400 fender roller. Thanks buddy pal chum.

On a side note since this thread has become drama and not what I intended. Thanks to both Hozzman and Mr. Stock who both have went out of their way and helped me before when they didn't even know me. Oh and Max Cooper as well. It was very much appreciated!

 

fittings are on the bottom so the oil drains out when the system is not flowing...if the fittings are on top, you will hold much more oil in your system during oil changes then you want too.

 

Ed Kim (Mr Stock) is a great guy. I've known him since 1999, and he has always been friendly and helpful. I hope you're enjoying cali!

 

GoRacer

What exactly was your fitment issues for your 500R short runner kit? What exactly did you have to do to resolve it? I have purchased the 500R short runner kit from A-Spec Tuning and it appears that the compressor housing touches the lower intake manifold (LIM).

 

^ That's the same issue I had. I tried polishing (sanding down) both the compressor and intake manifold. I had the compressor shaped/shaved down during the polish job but not enough. It had to be shipped back to A-Spec unfortuantely but if your shop knows how to do fabrication then they can do the same thing. It's better to pay your shop, then pay for shipping "and" wait for it to return. Even if they turned it around in one day (as they did for me), how much would overnight cost? Otherwise expect at least one (to two) week(s) for shipping time. ...unless you're installing yourself.

Anyhow the fix was welding in a spacer. Looks like a 2nd T4 flange to me. That gave me just enough clearance. You may have to shave down of of those metal peices that the screws go in to hold the compressor to the center section (mine hits the lim).

I also replaced the metal elbow (as shown previous pages) for the oil intake line with aluminum fittings. If the metal elbow bends then it will not sit and compress correctly, hence my scary oil leak.

Does not fit with the air pump as is. Nothing is provided for the fix. I offered a custom adjustable bracket in GB section, but no one was interested. Apparently $100 was too much. Imagine how I feel having overpaid $1,000.00 for my previous fixed position p.o.s. bracket that used the belt to hold the air pump in place (and took 12hrs to make?)!!!

If using the Tial 46mm waste gate, the dump pipe is too low or rather the lowest part of "my" car since my sway bars are relocated (widefoot mounts). I am going to have my "real" (not previous wannabe) fabricator solve that issue.

 

OK, trying really hard not to rant about all the dings, paint scratches and broken plastic parts!

I was going to do a write up in the supsension section but I need a second person for the pictures but here is a brief outline on installing coilovers since mine was done incorrectly even though I paid the same amount as corner balancing...

DIY: How to adjust coilovers (correctly).

If you have a lower priced version (like JIC SF1's) then you should rais the springs as high as possible and then the proper way to adjust is to lower them. The reason for this is if you raise the car by the springs (how mine was done) then you will compress and preload them (wrong).

Rings are aluminum and spanner wrenches are steel, hence wrenches do not scratch. You can however sratch the rings if adjusted incorrectly.

1. figure out the hight of your springs (mine are approximately 7 & 7/8th")
2. If springs were touched then you need to expand them. It's easy to tell, there should not be scratches on the metal rings from raising under pressure. You can unlock the bottom ring then loosen the top ring to lower the spring untill it's loose. The tighten slightly. I tightened my springs to 7.75" hight. This keeps them tought but no preload.
3. The coilover is adjusted by raising/lowering the threaded pipe (not springs). Unlock the steel purch (bottom part of damper that threaded pipe goes in to) by loosening the third/bottom ring and raise it up. You will adjust by turning the two locked rings under the spring (top one). Since there is no preload, it should turn very easily and you won't scratch the rings.
Tip: You can double stack the wrenches which gives you more torque to adjust hight.
4. I adjusted mine to a total of 10" on the passenger side and 10.25" on the driver side. I weigh 200lbs and there is a 1/4" drop with me in the car. It will give you a floor to fender lip hight of 26" which is perfect for street use (25" for track). Mine was previously adjusted to 24.5" which is way too low (yes, 1/2" was enough diff' to scrape speed bumps). You will want to measure from the top of the spring (under pillowball mount) to the top of the female perch.
Note: Different brands may have different measurements. Mine are Buddy Club Racing Spec but these are good numbers for you to start with..
5. Expect it to take some time if doing it by yourself as you will most likely need to adjust every corner several times. Make shure you lock the rings and torque the lug nuts properly.
Tip: You can determine your weight drop yourself with a measuring tape (metal retractable) and a business card. Open the door and measure from the floor to the X on the scuff plates. Then sit in it and measure again. Use a business card sticking outward to line up with the tape. Pinch the tape where the business card touches and read measurements. Make shure you measured at the same point the second time. This isn't as good as corner weight but pretty damn good for free and doing it yourself.

 

Any numbers yet? I'd like to see what it puts down already. With all the people that have bought this set up and I've only heard of one car that has posted numbers.

 

Rey, I just have to chase down an exhaust leak and get some ic pipes fabbed up, then JD has to find some time for tuning. I should be able to get some #s fairly soon, I'm still debating on how high to push the boost.

 

dont think just push 20-22 psi on meth ...unless your only sticking to your water injection just run that 17 that youve always been running.