I assume you mean fpr solenoid rather than sensor. It should be okay to have the fpr solenoid in there still, and it should not cause fp fluctuations. It should only increase the fp on hot starts, IIRC. It is more typical to remove the solenoid from the FPR manifold reference signal/circuit/hose, and eliminating the solenoid would eliminate it as a possible cause of fluctuations (and be simpler, with less hose connections).

-Max

 

Man, I am sorry you are having so much trouble with your car.

You must leave it unplugged. It vents air from the top of the wastegate when the solenoid is deactivated.

I am not preceisely sure of how the FPD works internally, but it seems very unlikely for it to be able to actively change the pressure in any way. It is really just supposed to reduce the fluctations the occur when the injectors fire (passively damping the changes in pressure).

-Max

 

Well $3k later and 2 days before my tune while other cars after me got taken car of I get teh car back with low water warning light, low oil warning light, turbo leaking oil because of the wrong fitting used, unresolved fuel fluctuation that I paid to resolve and i'm spending my birthday working on my car. It took my over 4 hours to get the air pump off, so I take back my apology! There is no way that air pump bracket took him 12hrs to make @ $100hr! I did not leave the Apexi solonoid unpluged. The kit was brand new in an unopened box when I handed it over. So now I have to pay again to have someone else fighure out what I allready paid for!!!

Group buy: Adjustable air pump bracket for 500R

I will have some made in titanium (if possible - shortage right now) at least mine will be, others may be aluminum. This will be fully adjustable, no fixed bullshit. This will be real quality by a real fabriactor. He currently working on one of Jay Leno's cars and restoring a AC Cobra. His roadster he built himself in titanium and it's over 1000hp. My bracket cost me $1k and I will do a group but that blows it away for 1/4th the price. Looking for 10 people to start.

 

^ edit $5k later because it was another $1300 for the air pump bracket and fmic piping (that I provided). I also had to literaly shut the engine off for each shift and then had to pay to get that resolved. As you can tell i'm not in the best of moods. Happy b-day to me.

 

I beleive I am spiking by 1lb. I know I read that there is a difference in reading between the manifold and the turbo compressor. Mine is connected tot he turbo compressor and the PFC +.68mmhg and the autometer reads 10 and spike of 11lbs. Is it best to "T" both a manifold connection and the compressor connection for boost control?

I went over the car from morning yesterday untill this morning...

I replaced the oil return line. I was full of easily visible pin holes, it was so soft it crimped folded in the middle and was starting to split in the ends. I also reversed the tube because it was crushing the metering oil pump plug. I wanted to swap it with the one on the turbo but the turbo would have to be removed.

I replaced the turbo inlet 90 degree pipe (don't use this fitting guys). The pipe was bent and it did not seal properly cause the oil leak on top of the turbo. My oil level is now 60 (30 - 90) as opposed to before at 30 (0-45). Thanks for the tip Atilla and Sean. I used a small Metrinch open end and was able to get the fitting off. It's not possible to remove the compressor snail with t he turbo mounted.

I cut the top radiator hose about 3" shorter and rotated the intake filter. The rubber adaper is from home depot (it's at 45 degree angle). The filter it'self is actally tilted also about 15 degrees I guess. I rotated them at an angle towards the corner instead of strait down and it made an excellent fit (well still hits A/C line below it).

I replaced the bolt and added a washer for the air pump bracket becasue the one in there was twice too long and the wrong thread (nice attention to detail).

I will work on the fuel pressure tomorrow and the titanium air pump bracekt this weekend.

 

Thank you for the replies, I appreciate it!

 

Good job!

See you can do it.

 

I hope 60lbs of oil pressure isn't too much for the turbo. I don't have any experience with the GT series yet, but some friends have blown oil seals very early with that pressure.

 

Questions:

I beleive I am spiking by 1lb. I know I read that there is a difference in reading between the manifold and the turbo compressor. Mine is connected to the turbo compressor which reads a max of 11lbs (boost set to 10lbs) and the PFC reads +.68mmhg (10lbs). So, is it best to "T" to both the manifold and the compressor connection for acurate boost control?


I tried all kinds of fittings but the fpr leaks fuel whith the gauge. I had to do a T fitting on the inlet side because the other hole isn't threaded right. I tried to retap it to 1/8 NPT but it still wouldn't work. I noticed after I tightened as best as possible it was holding alot more steady at 30lbs where before it showed 20lbs. I truned the fpr upwards or verticle and the pressure seamed to dold stable at 38lbs. So is this the answer? Can the regulator not be layed sideways? Maybe the fuel lines or fittings are bad?

 

Question:

Am I better off splitting my fuel line to both rails and running -6 braided lines in parallel instead of the current oem setup in series? Has anyone used the AEM or Turbosmart FPR?

 

why not just get an aeromotive fpr, take it apart and since the colour is bothering you have it anodised blue. no biggy. it would save you a bunch of hassle. also, my set up is dual line and dual pump. no issues from day one.

for oil and fuels i used earls all over and no leaks or pressure drops nothing. for the turbo inlet , oil, i use aeroqiup -3an, tapped into the stock bunjo.My oil pressure is set up for the rear relief to open at 127psi, and the stock front relief is disabled. I use an external adjustable oil pressure reg -12 in, -10s out, with the relief going to the rear 'stock' turbo drain point.

for the coolant i use earls fittings, and no issues either.

 

Or even easier is to buy a Paxton FPR,it must be made by aeromotive as it's exactly the same as the aeromotive "13101" just blue anodized top/silver base with paxton logo.I have the same one.

http://www.paxtonauto.com/fuel_pr.html

 

Thanks, I like the Paxton (there's a few company's that rebadge Aeromotive). I actually would have bought the blue Paxton instead of a 2nd Sard, had I known "lol". Well I allready spent $300 on two small ones, so what's another $300 that I don't have to do it right and overkill. I will be getting the Turbosmart T-Reg Pro.

What about those questions above, anybody?

 

OMG the fuel lines were crossed to the FPR!

The return line is also a bit short and kinks but there is only a 1psi jump now and may resolve when I push it further back to screw in. I will try to find some better reinforced hose. I also pluged in the ACV which fixed the idle.


Question: I set it without the vacuum line to 38psi but with it it goes down to 34psi. If I understand the FSM correctly it should be at 36psi with the vacuum hose connected?

 

whoa! you payed someone to cross your fuel lines? ack!

 

ouch!!!

 

Why not run an electonic air pump if youre going to all that trouble?

 

OK, below are some pics of the $1000 bracket that is fixed position and takes two hours to change a belt because you can not reach the rear bolt. Yes, I was charged $1,275.00 by the shop behind Mazdatrix! I was told it took him over 12 hours to make the bracket alone.




Below is a picture of "quality" craftsmanship from a "real" fabricator (Titanium Metallurgy) that knows what he is doing instead of pretending by overcharging and ripping people off and not even offering a reach around when he does it.
It took him two hours from opening the hood to closing the hood to make this!

* This is prototype #1 in aluminum.
* It does not bend nor flex. It takes 20tons of pressure to snap as shown in front of me.
* It is completely adjustable and holds the belt tight.
* It takes two mins to change a belt.

 

Wow...

 

Aluminum version $100 (net) + 15 for paypal and ship
Titanium version $200 (net) + 15 for paypal & ship
* retains original screws
* will need to purchase a longer belt (part # provided)

I am "not" making any profit on these, just proving a point at my own expense.

Naked news: GoRacer changes his name to smilin' bob as the quick spool of the 500R gives him a walrus chubby (film at 11).

OK, I can tell you it takes me about three times as long to shift as it does to spool from 3500rpm to 7500rpm's and i'm only at 10lbs and can't stop smilin' ...bob's your'e uncle!

 

OK, I accidentally hit .71mmhg @7500rpm (whoops). I'm supposed to be limited to 10lbs (yikes). I know I read either the manifold is more accurate or the compressor and one gives you spikes but I forget which does what. So it it better for the controller to read fom the manifold, same as the gauge? Maybe T'ing from both?

OEM = Please sir, may I have some more?

500R
10lbs = Smilin' Bob pitchin a tent.
15lbs = Sportin' some wet depends.
20lbs = Did yoi fill out your doner card?

 

.71 mmHg? that is a vacuum measurement. If you mean .71 bar or .71 kg/cm^2 (atm) then you're fine, that is approx 10 psi.

Your boost controller should have a vacuum line hooked up to the compressor.

 

Well the PFC commander shows mmhg? I have it set to hold peak values and I wrote it down. Injector duty was 63.2%. I thought that was about 11lbs but when I tried a different calculator last night it said 13lbs. Is no one running the boost controller to the extension manifold? My boost gauge connected to the extension manifold is allways slightly different then the commander connected to the compressor snail.

 

The PFC Commander reads vacuum in mmHg, but boost in kg/cm^2 (atm). 1 atm=14.22 psi, so 0.71 is right around 10 psi.

From what I've been told, running your boost controller from the compressor will give better response than from the manifold.

Your boost gauge and your commander will most likely never match up, it's best to believe the boost gauge.

 

^ OK, thanks for clearing that up! That means the optional Apexi boost kit is holding very well. Allthough, the last time I compared both comander and mechanical gauge (before last night) I had .69 kg on PFC and my autometer read 11lbs. So is that becuase of the difference in manifold pressure versus compresor pressure or I just need to get some electronic gauges?