did you properly allign the clutch? i've seen some exedy twin plates do the same thing when not installed correctly. it will become near impossible to get in and out of gear when the clutch is gone.

first check to make sure the clutch line is properly bled and you are actually moving the clutch fork. if thats correct then the only other thing I would recommend is to open it up and see what the clutch looks like. i've seen some twin plates have the rear disk spindle teeth sheered right off because of a misallignment.

 

Hell yeah

Goracer, sounds like one of the discs is in installed backwards

 

OK, went to Vince's place (Titanium Metallurgy) and he fixed it in like 10 min. Aparenty twin plates need to be adjusted. He did something onder the dash, then under the hood, then rocked the car back and fortch in gear then smkoed a cigar and said it was fixed. Dang, I felt like a then ordered a pizza and and talked about making some cool titanium FD stuff. I still have to drive to vegas or something because my tune is friday and I have 50mi instead of 1500. I will post results but I don't know what lbs I will be able to do with my car not being ready yet.

 

Ack, I didn't even notice this reply, thank you! I remember alighning the wite stripe abut if I can't remember if the blue stripe lined up as well. It seems to working ok now. Pedal pressure is definately noticable. Plate rattle is very minimal. Not as smooth as stock but definately not a bucking bronco like an unsprung puck single.

 

Glad to see its running. Go put some miles on that block!

 

Put about 600 miles all day and night yesterday. got home at 2am and woke up at 7am. ...only got worse from there. I scraped the wastegate return pipe on the flex part and the threads are f'd up. it's about 2" too low. May have to return to A-Spec. I went over the speed bump at 45 degree angle and thought I was going to get stuck. Someone put something in my door lock and I can't use the key. Boost controler hooked up wrong. could not remove spark plugs or oil filter (were overtightened - broke spark plugs and socket trying). I still have A/F fluctuations that no one can resolve. I will try bypassing the FPD tomorrow. Oil leak on turbo inlet. It's not possible to reach without removing the turbo.

Special thanks to DHahlen for helping me wrap my brand new wire harness that was literaly melting (sorry you got cut doing it). Thanks to Luie for lending me tools and busting the stupid plugs loose. Thanks to Steve for diagnosing FPR, fuel pump, etc and at least getting me a base map and spending so much time and putting up with me be so frustrated.

321hp@10lbs I have no idea if that's flywheel or rear wheel nor if it needs corrections for unloaded dyno.

 

Who did all the work on your car?

 

^ I'm trying to keep this positive and informative.

Steve fixed the wastegate issue. There are two connections (pre-control & boost) to the OEM solonoids but only one is used for the Apexi boost kit. Simple fix, swap connections.

My current problem is the A/F fluctuation. It does this with the car on or off. I've gone through two FPR's and two fuel pumps and since it does it with the engine off that should eliminate the injectors. This leaves possibly the fuel lines and some kind of conflict with or bad FPD. If eliminating the FPD does not fix the pressure fluctuation then I don't know what to check next. Thus the reason for todays post.

 

ok, I felt around with my had and found the side of the intake manifold wasn't blocked off and the hole was in the exact spot where the new wire harness was melting (like frosty the snow man). I had to have the 94 replaced with a 95 to get rid of the EGR hump but the block off plate was not transfered. * -->Could that have been the cause of my A/F jumping up and down and the fuel pressure reading to bounce like crazy?

I should have just skipped 7stock and worked on it all day. There was a white 7 that was amazing and just how I wanted to look and we both spent about the same money and time (5 yrs) but his is tight and finished and mine looks like a junker.

There is a hole on the front of the boost controler (Apexi AVCR solonoid), does this need to be pluged? I can see threads and don't know the purpose for it.

Does anyone know if the OEM FPD would interfere with an aftermarket FPR and couse the A/F to be iradic?

 

nope the OEM fpd should not have anything to do with the afr going crazy....many people run stock 550 rail with the OEM fpd including myself without any issues....But i have heard of leaky injectors causing that problem.

 

Well there is a very slim possibility that the FPD is working in reverse and causing the oscilation.

Primary injectors would make sense but it does this when the engine is off and only the pump is running, no injectors. that leaves a possibilty of the lines not installed correctly (mainly the return) or a bad fuel pump relay but the pump held a constant 14 volts on load.

I replaced the ground with one of those overpriced premade fancy ones. The car runs better but I can not verify if the oscilation is gone because Sard has a different size or thread for the second intake hole and I can not screw it the gauge or find adapter fittings for it. I don't have a regualr test gauge and T fitting.

I beleive I did correct the fluctuating air/fuel problem with a block off plate that was not transfred to my 95 maniold when the 94 was removed. If the wire harness hadn't melted I wouldn't have thought to look and feel for a hole. Thanks to Dhahlen for making me look.

so there is a remote possiblity that could have fixed the problem as my internet search results said this problem is caused by vacuum leaks. I wish I could connect the pressure gauge.

oil leak on turbo oil line inlet. well i was told it's reachable with a crows foot tool that I don't have. So off to sears I guess.

water not holding. well I guess using the 1st gen cap to bypass the ast doesn't work. will switch to a greddy ast when i can afford it.

* intake filter. this setup that I extremely overpaid for does not work. if i lift the filter up it will rub the belt. if i tilt it downward it kinks one of the water hoses and dents another.

* fmic piping. well i decided to rotate it because i specifically asked for the bov to point downward to hide it and its sideways. well it was welded on wrong. it can not point dowards or the pipe is at the wrong angle and wont allow the hood to close. there is also too much of a gap. i would think with that much gap the couplers will break and if the pipes hit the pulleys thats more damage then the $1275 I paid for such quality work.

 

$4000 turbo kit (incuding bov & wg)
$3000 turbo kit install and finish engine assembly (wiring, fpr, bc, etc)
$1300 fmic piping, bov flange and air pump bracket
$1000 easy maybe double fpr, fuel pump, fittings, lines, boost cotrlr, etc.
$1500 Exedy twin plate clutch
$0150 adjust twin plate so i dont have to shut engine off to shift (Titanium Metallurgy)
$1500 Apexi FMIC
$0500 oil cooler, lines, bracket fab and fittings
$0750 Apexi PFC & commander
$0500 Base map tune (includes dyno time)
$1500 wheels not including tires
$0500 Exhaust
$0500 mid pipe + met cat + borla XR1
$24000 price of car itself
$5000 engine #2
$5000 engine #3
$1500 miscelanous service rotary shop and dealer.
$0500 M2 toe link, trail arms
$0500 bushings
$0500 motor mounts, sway bar mounts, engine mounts
$0800 new main engine harness & used battery/alternator harness
--------
$53,800 & my car still looks and runs like = priceless

I have an appt for XS Engineering in january. I'm sure I will have to respend another $5000 for the work that was allready done to be redone correctly. I still have oil leaks on the turbo, fluctuation on fpr and a migrane that won't go away. I found the air/fuel problem which was the missing block off plate. I just found the alternator was not pluged in, so hopefully that solves the iradic fuel pressure. I need to double check if the wire harness was destroyed. I'm off to Signal Auto to see if they can work on it.

I am not seeing full boost untill about 3500rps. it stars from -12 around 2800 or 3000rpm but does not begin boost before 3200rpms. i'm not sure how anyone else got boost at 2800rpms. I also don't see 450rwhp possible @ 15lbs on pump. I will have XS retune next year. In options magazine it shows an FD with a street port only and a T04Z doing similar numbers as Broken09 did on 1.1 bar (3" exhaust, no ign amp). I don't see the 500R being any different then the T04Z. I would like to see a comparison between the two.

 

So mazdatrix pretty much screwed you, huh? Why did they let the car leave with so many problems?

 

I don't know why it took 3 & 1/2 months with most of the time it sitting outside and not being worked on and other cars going in and out. I thought since they did Max Coopers car that a single turbo was not too big of a project. Kyle did an excellent job building his drift 2nd gen and his pipe and weld work completely blows away the fabricators work (behind mazdatrix) and puts him to shame!

The job was over my head and I dumped it on them but I did not think it was too much for them since he is excellent on stock twins, otherwise I would have took it to XS Engineering. I'm limited on what I can do because of experience, no fabrication tools or welding skills.

I went to Titanium Metullurgy and he told me he would have built me an "adjustable" bracket for the air pump (no hacking ears off), would have correctly fitted an intake filter without rubbing the belt or squishing the water hoses and made FMIC pipes 1000x better in "titanium" for $400 (1/4 of what I paid and I provided the parts)!!! XS Engineering said the pipes and air pump bracket would have to be redone as well. So I pissed away $1300 for that crap because it will not pass smog as is. The air filter doesnt fit and I still have pipes that arent properly filterd. Signal AUto will work on it but they are also backed up and will also have to start from scratch to figure out the problems. More moeny wasted. I'm easily up to $60k allready.

 

Here is my current problem besides the oil inlet leaking to the turbo. Aspec (Sean) is being very helpful and offered new oil inlet line and is awaiting this pic of the wastegate dump.



ok, here you can see the oil return problem. I originaly swaped the pipes but he swaped the back. It fits alot better with the one with all the bends on the turbo. I will replace them with aluminum (or titanium) ones and switch to a braided line.



Here is an underneath view of the air pump bracket which is reinforced quite well and nice welds so I have to swallow my pride an apalogize (I'm sorry) ...but he still f'd up on the bov side since I asked for it to be strait down and there is a gap between pipes and the ifini pipe wasnt routed like I asked. Neah :P

 

have you checked for a gasket on that oil drain

 

Here are some pics of kyle's (Madatrix engine builder) FC drift car. He missed qualifying by like 1 second or less. I wish I had a good one with the bumper off. The brackets for the V-mount and the fmic piping was amazing, perfect pipe bends, very clean and smooth flow.




Here the white FD that won the highest street HP award built by RX7.com and XS Engineering. We both spent about the same money and time but his is complete.

 

That's nice!

 

Why is one end of the oil return line not connected to anything (the end that goes to the front oil cover). Or did you disconnect it to get a better picture.

 

^ do you mean this one in pic below from previous page? If so, it is connected just hard to tell. That is the pipe iwth the three bends. The hose is on the 45 degree bend. I originaly had that pipe on the turbo but it got swaped back.

 

OK, called M'Trix cause i'm leaking too much oil to drive. I was told he tightened the fitting as much as possible and he didn't notice any smoke but it smoked on the vegas run and on the dyno the next morning. I think he forgot to use a fitting? Can anyone verify this? The brass one came with the kit. The aluminum one I bought.

 

Here is a pic of Crispy's oil inlet. I beleive M'Trix substitued the male fitting with another and I also don't see washers on any of my fittings.

 

Dude, I don't understand how they don't have your car running "perfect" after all the money you put in to the car? I did almost everything in my own shop with my mechanic and so I had NOOOO idea that some shops were charging prices like the ones you listed above. Seriously, my jaw-dropped when I saw how much you paid for piping and some of the other things you had done.

I hope you manage to get all your issues resolved and make the car into what you want/expected it to be with all the time and effort you put in so far.

Keep us updated and goodluck.

 

That thing is more like a brake line fitting. I wonder if it leaks next to the tubing around the hole, not around the threads...

Those are the types of fittings that should be on there that you have pictured. I think one of them is the wrong angle AN fitting though, unless it mates up to the stainless line A-Spec gave you.

 

^ yes, it leaks out of the hole. M'Trix instisted that's not possible because it's a compression fitting but the leak just gets worse to the point it's not safe to go down the block. I also noticed a alen head bolt on the compressor housing and when I asked about it he didn't know. Moreover, I realized the reason the fitting leaked on the block was not because it was too long but because he did not use and washers. I had all new fittings and washers when I brought it in. He insists it did not leak when I left but it leaked within an hour and just got worse. It leaked at RR&R during the dyno tune the next day. I know I will get told I gave him the wrong one, he is too busy to look at my car, it's my fault, etc, etc. I have no idea what I did to get treated like this. I've shown nothing but praise for Mazdatrix.

The gold one on the right is the A-Spec fitting that came with the kit and was in the box of leftover stuff in my trunk. The silver one is an aluminum Earls equivilant I bought.

* question: I kept all of the sensors but only 3 of them were actually being used so I thought nothing of pluging the rest to the wiring harness. Two of them were for the ACV and the 3rd was for the fuel pressure regulator. So my question: Since I upgraded to an aftermarket fpr would leaving the fpr sensor pluged in to the harness cause the fuel pressure fluctuation? Could a faulty (2k mi old) fpd cause the fluctuation?