Someone on this forum got charged with obstruction of justice for not popping there hood for a cop.

 

 

The HKS T04Z kit allows you to keep the smog pump.

 

The car is almost done.
I only have a few issues:
1. Fuel pressure jumps up and down.
2. Won't go in to gear with new Exedy twin plate (posted in 3rd gen section)
3. awaiting GTR fuel pump install
4. Need to raise the car (literaly sitting on tires)
5. Exhaust (not turbo) manifold glows devil red hot!!! ...I didn't think that was possible with the heat coating. Maybe I have to have it redone by Swaintech? I was going to wrap over it but there was another thread saying not to.

 

If the exhaust manifold is glowing red at idle it may be a simple AFR tuning issue.

 

I had the SAME problem with my manifold which I also had ceramic coated. My issue was that I installed a Microtech ECU at the same time as the single-conversion and it turned out to have no base map. So the car was running EXTREMELLY lean at idle and after a few minutes of running the manifold started turning bright red. All issues have been taken care of now. Just a heads up

P.S. - I'm also running the 500R, but long-runner manifold.

 

^ Oh wow, maybe Atila was right on that one to. I thought it was from running too rich? I must have a fuel problem (prob #1) since my presure is wacko and jumps up and down. ok, that is scary!

 

With no load and a high rpm (2500+) I can make my long tube SS manifold glow closest to the engine ports. It is lean with no load there. Rich would mean it is running cooler, but dumping fuel out the exhaust, and perhaps burning it farther down stream. The hotter it is closer to your exhuast ports, I would surmise to mean its lean. Do you have an EGT post turbo?

 

Before I accessed the Microtech system, I was under the same impression. That is, that the car's probably running pig rich, but that didn't turn out to be the case. As far as fuel pressure, mine remained steady but low, which I've adjusted now so no more issues (Crossing fingers).

I would venture to say all your problems sound fuel related to me. Goodluck with the rest of the build. Keep us updated.

 

Can anyone help with a base map? I called XS-Eng and even though I live 10min from them, they still want me to remove the ECU and leave it with them for a day or two to upload a map. They don't want to dyno tune a base. Steve Kan won't email me a base even with me schuduled for a tune. I don't know if A-Spec has one but if I can get through again, i'll ask. I don't think I can afford the $150 for the base map and still be able to pay for the fine tune.

 

Do you have a Wideband on the car?

 

No, i'm not shure if M'Trix has one or not. I'll ask after lunch. I called A-Spec but the maps they have are 550/1600 and they don't want me to use that. They did say to double check the timing, so i'll bring that up as well.

Here is the current dilemna (exluding money):
I am terified of breaking it in without the ECU tuned (blew last engine that way)
I can't get tuned without break in milage.
D'oh!

Mods in sig', if anyone has a similar setup can I copy your map for a base?

 

Hm, I know of someone who has a finely tuned map for a plain bearing GT35, with 870s and 1680s. Maybe that will be useful for you with the injectors tweaked a bit. If you're on breakin, you shouldnt really see the secondaries anyway.

 

All, I know is i'm sick of waiting. It's been in the shop for three months. I've watched other FD's go in and out while mine gets dirty. I thought it was going to be finished yesterday when he got back on it and now it's off the lift again. I'm sick of relying on other people!

 

Why do you think I do all of my work myself ?

 

Plain bearing GT35 is a much smaller comp. 71mm usually (76mm can be had) with a .50A/r just a heads up. The actual "R" is 82mm. That is why I came out with the GT3574 too many people were wanting a non-bb GT35R and the GT35 wasn't cuttin it.

 

Ack, ned help!

My brand new Sard FPR won't hold steady over 20lbs! Is it the regulator or something else? Anybody?

My special edition carbon fiber blue tinted mirrors are for RHD since it wont adjust enough. Ayone in UK or Japan want to buy them?

 

hehe what you askin for them?

 

I'll have to check the receipt but I think I paid about $600 shipped from Japan. They were a "limited" special edition Carbon Fiber (with blue tinted lenses) even though I think it's fake carbon but they are no longer available. You can see the ones for the RX-8 on Takakaira though. Oh orginal box got wet (ruined) and I threw it away.


other images are too big, just click below...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...r/DSCN0793.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...r/DSCN0794.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...r/DSCN0795.jpg

 

I purchased a new Sard FPR and this time besides hold 20&<lbs it holds 60&>bls but nothing in between.

 

Maybe it's time to look into an aeromotive

Btw, I vote for your old avatar back. I used to love looking at those girl's smooth cheeks

 

Nice

 

I didn't want to do Aeromotive becuase it has red and I didn't think I could retaint he OEM fuel lines. I'm not shure if that is a bottleneck ot not. I'll find out on friday if I still have a fuel problem that can't be resolved with the tune. There was a new brand I saw at Dynamic AUtosport that used a ball bearing some how and looked interesting especialy being a new design for a lower price ($100) but it was gold. I may just get the larger Racing Sard if I go to 20lbs with water injection.

Question of the day: Exedy twin plate, is there some kind of break in necessary? It's too late to call tech support. M'trix ruled out the pilot bearing, clip ring, fork and master cylinder. I am going to freak out tomorrow if it's hard to shift. He says it seems to be getting easier which means either some kind of break in or more air in the lines then he though.

 

Need help, please!

I picked the car up this afternoon from mazdatrix. i was told yesterday it was ready.

Prob #1
I literaly have to shut the engine off in between gears to shift. THat's the easiest/quicketst way. I can try depressing hte pedal several times over and over and try shoving the shifter and may or may not go in with or without a grind.
* new exedy twin plate
* new ORC clutch line
* new RE-A shifter
* trans rebuilt 2k mi ago

Car doesnt hold idle well and tries t stall on idle but only with clutch in

air bag light flashing on and off

 

sounds like you need limp it to another shop!!!!! This thread is begining to become painful. I want some solid #'s from the 500 R. Right Rich!!