OK, well I had a previous thread but I wanted a new one that sounded and looked more positive. It's not eye candy like Attila's (but then my house isn't as clean and organized as his garage either "lol") and not as detailed as Crispy's web page but it may help others and myself.


So I am the first to custom order a short runner T4 manifold on the new 500R kit. I had some fitment issues and it was modified with a spacer. I chose a Tial 46mm waste gate because of the nickel and inconel internals. There is also a Porsche narrow body version (not shure if this is the one I have). I was sent an open box but Sean was very good about sending missing parts and they are also available from Road Race Eng' . The manifold was beautifuly done! At this time I don't beleive the air will fit, so for now I will get another Greddy kit and bypass it. It looks like there is alot of room to go lower and forward and possibly still clear the air pump. I may have the exhaust manifold modified for this later as the goal was to retain the air pump. Oh, I had to replace the intake manifold with one from '95+ without the EGR (PFC won't control it anyhow).

Premodified manifold pics below ...




Steel fittings:




Earls aluminum fittings:




Modified Manifold with spacer:





Props to John at Mazdatrix for doing/finishing the custom install work! He 's!

 

Looks Great! Good luck getting it to fit.

 

what was it John did that you couldn't?

Also doesn't Cali, EGR test with emissions??

 

I put the block and the trans in myself (alone). I peiced together most of the parts but had a hard time with connectors, bolts, nuts ...completetion. I had fitment issues with the turbo kit. He hooked up Apexi boost control kit, Sard FPR, water & fuel lines, rerouted lines, etc. You can't see the pics very well (1megpix cell phone cam) but the FPR, boost soloniod and 3-bar MS are custom mounted and they cover the empty rats nest space in front. I will "allegedly" put some looped hoses in there as well as all the solonoids are still pluged in even though they are not used.

Smog tech' is required to visualy look for what is listed on the emissions diagram under the hood. The '95+ intake manifolds do not have EGR and therefore neither does the '95 USDM emissions sticker (wink, wink).

 

That looks sweet. Will you be able to pass smog with the EGR-less manifold and stock computer?

BTW, where in surf city are you? I assume youre referring to HB?

 

The EGR only effects NOx. It doesn't make any sense to me. It uses hot exhaust gases to reduces the combustion chamber temperature at a cost of reducing power by using carbon monixide instead of oxygen ...something like that. We can get carbon buildup which increases heat but since our engines are usually rebuilt every 100k mi, it's nothing like my 300k mi CRX. I haven't seen high number NOx on people's smog printouts posted and the '95 does not even use EGR. What engine changes were made in '95? Where they drastic enough to compensate the removal or did they realize it was not needed and they just jumped on the EGR bandwagon to more easily export the car? anyone ...Beauler?

I'm 10 min from the peir but I go to doggie beach cause my Bulldog is a chick magnet.

 

For you local SoCal guys; SuperAutobacs has Hylomar, DEI heat wrap stuff and Earls fittings in stock. They also have do it yourslef tubing (peice together bends and straits with couplers) and stubby filters for single turbos with no room...

 

Not to knock A-specs work, as I have seen one of their kits and everyone I know with one has nothing but good things to say.. but wasnt the entire reason for the short runner manifold , was to retain the airpump? What did Sean have to say about the fitment issues?

 

^ this is true, but only for the T3 version. Even though T3 requires some modification as shown on Crispy's web page. The T4-Devided version was a full/even lenght runner manifold. I requested to combine both of them together as well as 500R with larger 1.06 A/R and a 46mm WG instead of 44mm. As far as I know, I am the only one that has requested the T4 with a short runner manifold. The quality of the manifold is amazing but yes I was dissapointed that test fitment was not acurately done before heat coating and being sent out as there were not even shure if it could be done and I paid extra for the moch up fab' time. I think they are overwelmed with orders and unfortunately some things can slip trying to catch up. If I was closer to them I would be willing to pay to place the turbo where I want it to be but at this point I just want to drive my car since it's been down for a year (again). I will figure out the air pump fitment problem after it's running and tuned. Sean has been very helpful and patient with me so I will see if I can work around it before having the manifold and down pipe (cut/lenghtened) moved forward and lowered ...if possible.

 

I have the T4 with the short runner manifold 1.06A/R on the turbine, but my turbo is the 35/40R. I had a lot of fitment issues too. But I eventually got the thing to fit with the airpump installed. It had to go back to Sean once...but the turn around was pretty quick once he got it. When I initially tried to install it, the turbo wouldnt even sit on the manifold, it contacted the frame rail.

Now my only problem is if I want to take the turbo out of the car I have to pull the turbo while it is still attached to the manifold. It is a wierd angle so the turbo wont come off of the manifold while they are both installed in the car.

 

^ oh cool, thanks for the input!

you're 35/40 or 35R is almost the same. We are both T4, but is yours devided though?. My blowdryer just has a different internal wheel. ...unless you are undevided then the manifold should be similar.

John is rerouting the ABS line so it doesn't run next to the hot snail and I may possibly reroute the A/C line.

Can you please post any pics that you have to compare with and help make our kits better?

 

Ok GoRacer had recieved the first one made. Cozmo kraemer the second. The issue with the first was the angle of the manifold had to be adjusted more than what I had originally made. At first glance it looks and fits fine in the fixture I have made for larger frame turbo's so it should fit fine in the car, the angle of the newer turbine housings proved to be off just enough to create the issue even though it fit in the fixture. The solution also then solved the similar issue Cozmo called on. Either one would have still fit the airpump just fine that was never a issue. And yes the short runner manifold is tight down in there just like the HKS one which I think is actually worse due to the front lower stud being so tight to the WG runner.

-S-

 

Benifits of the shorter runners being just better response or what?

 

The spacer worked well for the fitment between the manifold and frame (centered pretty good) and the DP is centered excellent. As far as the air pump I think the issue may be the same that Crispy had with his T3 and a possible solution is clipping off an ear. I haven't got to that point but will definately update with pics especially if it can be done without clipping/cutting the pump or brackets. For now I just got a Bomz pulley kit and goodyear belt and will put that off untill after the car is running. I bought a 29" belt but the instructions say to use 30". I'll post on this thread if I need to change it.

I am so excited! it's been a year since I drove my 7 and I am power hungry for my 500R!!! Zoom Zoom

* Short runner is a loss (longer even length is a benefit) or rather a comprimise to fit the air pump. I am bending over backwards, upside down with a 1/2 twist just to be semi smog legal. Damn Cali' smog take that -->

 

Looks great! He did a great job getting everything mounted and hidden.

When will you have it started?

 

By the way, where's SuperAutobacs located? I need some -4 fittings and SS line.

...found it

 

^ Thanks bro'
I was hoping to have it started today but now goal is next friday.

http://www.autobacsusa.com/
12645 Beach Blvd.
Stanton, CA 90680
(714) 903-9900
2 Blocks North of 22 Freeway

You can also get Earls fittings from their store in Lawndale. I have the address in another thread and in my truck on a receipt. Let me know if you need that one to.

Oh here is some belt sizes for Greddy pulley kit with air pump
Auto = Gates K050510 (51.75"/1315mm) & Manual = K050530 (53.5"/1360mm)

 

Okay, from what I remember about taking my crap apart and labeling things was that the crankshaft angle sensors were White on the left and Grey on the right.

Either I have it wrong on mine, or you'll be doing another rebuild...

 

I though the video said they were interchangable? You can only put them on facing up but left or right didn't matter? If you can't find it in the manual, remind me and i'll check the video or ask John. If I forget maybe Sean or someone else can chime in to.

 

Not trying to speak for anyone here, but there probably will be zero performance gains with the shorter manifold, in fact it may actually be slighty the opposite. The only reason for the short manifold is to keep the airpump.

 

I think that is correct actualy slower spool time with short runners .

 

The sensors themselves are interchangeable, however the wiring harness plugs are NOT! The wiring harness plugs are not in the correct positions, that's what I'm referring to.

 

Also allows you to keep your M2/ASP SMIC with almost no extra work or run a RE VMIC. The longer runner manifold offers a broader power band.

-S-

 

ok, I bought a Bomz replica of the Greddy Pulley kit which unfortunately does not come with a belt. It was supposed to only be a temporary thing for a week or two untill I have the air pump mount fabrication done. I asked for a 29" Gates at Autobacs and got a 28" Goodyear as a supposed equivilant. D'oh! They must use Bush's fuzzy math to do the conversion! So now I have to track down a 31.5" belt which is the next size up and I think only Gates makes it. Anybody have a part #?

The next problem is the airpump bracket hiting the compressor inlet. I wanted to trim of 1/4" of it but was told that would destroy the snail? So next is possibly triming off an ear bracket as Crispy did but I was told that would put too much stress on the other bracket and cause that one to eventually crack. ...any ideas, anyone, anybody ...Beauler?

 

The following cars use a Dayco 315K5 (31.5"/800mm) 5-rib v-belt.

1992-1997 (without A/C)
Mazda MX-6 and MX-3 1.8l
Ford Probe GT 2.5l DOHC 24V

I will update if this belt will work. I may have to lengthen the udjusting hole, as it may be loose since it measure 31.5" around the pulleys.