Are those dyno numbers with 700-800hp with the t3 straight turbo or with No2 etc.... cause that is very impressive!!!! Most I've seen dyno out of a t3 3582r was 670hp c16 straight turbo. honda 2.0L motor

NIce build BTW!! What intercooler may I ask???

 

straight T3, I believe it is a rotary extreme monster v mount.

 

So nice to ear that cause I want to do the same , just i want to charge max 17psi on pump gas for re-ability reasons.
I got a gt35 and want to send it to Forced Performance too.
which is your advice to go to the 86 or to the 82?.
T4 divided or undivided.
I will go for 1.06R on the exhaust.
Got the 3mm apex seals too , they take a while to build compression.

 

The 86 all the way, undivided unless you are running a true twinscroll setup.

As for the seals, I hope i didn't run boost to the seals too early before they broke in all the way. I waited over 600miles and 4 oil changes.

 

yes for sure i got 2000 miles on mine , and i start charging 7psi when it have 1000miles on it.

I got twin scroll one side for one rotor and the other for the other rotor but one wastegate.

What you reefer to the real twinscroll?

i got the AEM EMS but i change the split according to the RPMS , they sayd that it work better if you have a little bit more split as you get to the redline and less when the turbo kick.

what brand of EMS do you have?

I can share my maps

I just have an issue with the cold start take 5 sec to start

 

True twin scroll will have separate runners all the way to turbo flange and separate wastegates.

I have a apexi power fc.

I had my first warm start issue but it could be because I was getting on it a little around the block and it was running really rich and I parked it and shut it off so could have been slightly flooded.

 

Im going to send my CHRA tomorrow to them.

I ask for the 1.00r exhaust housing divided , and they have it too!!!

What do you thing about that R?

 

T4 of course

 

Today I sent my CHRA to FP.

So strange that Garrett don't offer the t4 divided , and FP yes , so Im quite confused .

Cause it is 1.06 the one that all sell and the FP one just 1.00

Can it be so different????

I know that there is some european T4 and a American one.

Any one there knows the difference and have some experience in the FP T4??

 

You can get them with a T4 foot print but they are not true T4's.

Basically a T3 with a T4 flange.

 

so the one on the picture is not a real T4?
cause that the housing that fp offers

soul i have to use this??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-F...Q5fAccessories

 

If you didn't already then call Forced Performance and ask for tech. The turbo is a garrett based so you should be able to get a true T4 rear housing since the turbine is left unchanged.

 

http://www.turblown.net/store/index.php?productID=47

an example of a True T4 on a GT35R (they had to replace the turbine wheel with a P trim)

Notice how large the turbine housing is compared you your T3 housing with a T4 flange (the pic you posted).

This is important to note because a 1.06 A/R T3 is not the same as a T4 1.06 A/R

A 1.06 T3 is fairly close to a .84 A/R T4

 

They will have to alter the turbo because garrett does not make a true T4 for that turbine wheel.

Also the Tial V bands are based off the T3 housing for the GT35's

If they do provide a True T4 then they would have to do something similar to the above link.

 

According to this this will work??

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=GTH

 

Photo

 

Of course it will work- just depends on what you are looking for.

notice description -

TURBINE HSG, DIVIDED T4 INLET AND 3" VBAND OUTLET, 1.06 A/R, GT35R (GT3582R)

"Divided T4 inlet" - it's just that, a flange.

It will behave exactly a GT35R with the T3 with 1.06 A/R.... just you wont' need an adaptor.

People that run the T3 accept the fact that it will die off up top for the benefit of early spool.

 

Ok , perfect

Well there is not a lot better option without changing the trim....

Probably thats the best option

I have installed a t04e in this moment with 1.06R.
I got a street ported engine with 3mm aphex seals , etc
I just dont want something lots bigger (or laggy) or something lots smaller.
Im charging 13psi at 4000rpms and my top will be 18psi in some time. But no more than that.

My goal is the 400whp allways with pump gas , with that Im more than very happy and the ign cut is at the 8200rpms.

Just want power and reability.

 

Good information. I will say that my car never died off up top. I ran 23psi no loss of power. Power Curve climbs all the way up no flattening off until very top of the revs.

 

Excelent so Im in the good path!!!
Nice info in deed!!
I just place the order at ATP turbo for the 1.06 t4 housing and I sent it to Forced Performance.

Boxer2rotary , are you using pump gas for daily driving?

 

Forced Performance offers excellent products.

one of the really nice things about the FP HTA gt3586 is that like the GT35 it is a small 18.4 pound package so it allows for lots of options as to placement within the engine compartment... you can gain so major benefits if you take advantage of the size when designing a manifold.

yet it puts out like a 67 mm which is lots larger/heavier.

the HTA3586 can make 75 pounds per minute. that's 750 on a piston engine and 577 on a rotary. (divide by 1.3)

Sean makes a good point... since the compressor wheel is the new style "billet" it features a smaller hub and, therefore, larger vanes. there is no free lunch. if you move more air it takes more effort to power the device/compressor. so Sean's point about the turbo feeling a bit soft in midrange is valid. (no surprise, Sean knows his stuff).

the GT3582r that we all know and love has a 6.386 sq inch aver compressor area w a 56 trim.

the FP HTA GT3586 has 6.839 sq inches AND features a 52 trim so it partially makes up for being larger w a smaller trim.

it will be very interesting to fully evaluate the turbo.

comparatively the GTX3582r has 6.519 area and a 57 trim.

howard

 

FYI the 'knee' on the power plot at 80mph and the 2nd 'knee' at 110mph is the turbine housing choking up the motor.

The decay sharpens at the 2nd knee because the exhaust manifold pressure is getting pretty big.

Thanks for posting up the sheet. To be honest I trust the raw value of 470rwhp/ 560bhp is about right for that boost pressure and turbo.

Notice you got bugger all more power from 15psi to 22psi? Its in choke.

What has been said all along is that even 64lb/min is better matched to a P-trim and 1.0

75lb/min is going to need a P-trim and 1.15 to make any sense.

 

^ the question is how much transient response will he give up if he went to that larger hotside

 

I don't think a whole lot -

Turblown posted a nice comparison between the two a while ago.

I believe they achieved almost the same boost/rpm but the larger p trim made more power at a given rpm (reduced back pressure).

Some of it would depends on other variables -

Like if the car is ported, open exhaust, or plans to go beyond 7k......

I think if it's ported, has open exhaust and plan to go beyond 7k you'd want to step up to the P trim for sure.

 

Boxertorotary:

Any dyno chart??
So in that way we can see if the turbo is choking the engine
Where do you have your rpms cut?