Disconnect the outlet of the turbo from the intercooler. Rev that bad boy and you should get a LOT of air pushing out of there. That would eliminate a leak in the piping or blow off valve.

Also when you are reving, listen for the wastegate opening or do it with the car on the lift so you can see if the gate is opening.

If all looks ok, take the back housing off and check the turbo, do the same for the front as well.

Post what you find.

Anthony

 

Im sure you have already checked this but make sure the throttle plates open all the way when the gas is pressed to the floor. I had a similar problem where my turbo would manage to build 4 or 5 psi of boost but bleed off to 0 at higher rpms. I thought I had a bad leak somewhere until I checked the throttlebody and the plates were only opening 1/2 to 3/4 of the way at what I thought was full throttle.

 

Well after a few hours of doing some test and taking things apart
I disconnected the piping from the turbo outlet and I am getting a decent amount of air just free revving the motor. Not enough to force my hand away when I put my palm over the outlet. Took the top intank manifold off and did see one of the vac nipples on the firewall side was not capped. took the downpipe off and the and turbine wheel seems fine. turbo spins very freely. Another thing I noticed was the downpipe to turbine v-band clamp bottoms out with out really getting nice and tight as it could be.. noticed some oil and a bit of dirty oil smell around the secondary part of the intakes even tho the secondarys never kick in.

also tried the wastegate test , I put my hand right over the dump outlet of the gate and revved the motor as hard as I could and there is no leaks whats so ever and nice and closed all the time.

F' et I'm taking the whole engine bay back to bare block
I removed the top intake manifold butterflys and shaft
going to order new injector clips for the bottom injectors as a precaution
cause I see some wire showing where it goes into the clip.
As well send them off to RC engineering to get cleaned
there bosch 850cc about 4 years old and the 1680cc are new
going to add more grounds and change the turbo in a few weeks (smaller turbine wheel and housing)
Then try to have my map cleaned up and that doesnt do it
I'll burn the bitch

 

You keep talking about the slow revving and such, you sure your ignition is wired right ?

 

yes it is, doubled checked the CAS and the Coil wiring
the car drives like a totally normal N/A GTU would...But unlike a N/A
(I guess I could switch to RPM Stage instead of Map Stage) that when floor it the throttle plates open and all 4 injectors open giving you "full power".
My car only runs on 2 injectors since it never switches on the secondarys
But it drives very responsive in and out of traffic... My Old S4 large street ported motor? When I would be standing still and just idling and raise the rpms to 5K and floor it and it would climb up the tack to 8K so damm fast and with such force !!

This S6 motor just does not rev with commading force, maybe my map is all screwed .
I need to hook up my PLEX wideband and add a EGT and see whats going on
I leaning towards my timing being too retarded since my exhaust doesnt get very hot. Hell my old street port .81 tubine and HKS manifold would glow when coming back from a 11.4 pass down the track

Well see in a couple of weeks how this turns out

 

I don't think I get it. The secondaries never come on ?

 

If I go into my engine management settings and bring down the staging into the vacuum cells as you will, then yes the 1680cc injectors come online but way to rich to rev
I have the secondarys setup to come on only when the EMS sees 2 PSI, since I never reach postive manifold pressure, no they never come on

I"ll give you another stumper that I bet FEW of you have EVER seen
I 1st tried 4 1680's and the car idled and stay running WITH NO FUEL PUMP wired

 

your saying your car ran with no fuel pump on what so ever?

 

you don't have a screen or anything on the intake opening of the turbo right?

 

I had a similar problem when I changed the factory turbo on my Evo. A new bigger turbo and new external wastegate. The car was driving like it was a regular car without turbo. Checked for leaks and nothing then checked the turbo and nothing. Finally found the problem, the boost controller. It uses a different setup for internal and external wastegates. All I did was changed one of the outlets of the boost controller solenoid and problem solved. I have the proffec b II. Try that and see. Good luck!

 

I did that with my Cosmo RE when i first installed it, wired something wrong at the column and couldnt shut off the car, so i went and unplugged the fuel pump figuring that would kill it.


Wrong, bitch just idled away, 59kpa of vac sucking the fuel though the pump, lines and out the injectors just managed to keep it running, blpping the throtal at that ponit does kill it

 

Ok I think I found the problem, How the hell the car ran and idle'd good is out of my relm...My friend who built my engine mis-marked the **** of my trigger wheel
this my 1st REW engine, so I was stupid I admit.. check this out

my current 5 ATDC mark is really more like 13'ish BTDC
I redid it paul jaw ways and followed a forum members instructions posted on hear
doing a search...

check the photo

 

Well put everything back together.. but my battery got run down so no testing
but don't know If my CAS is screwed up or maybe when you put a FC front cover with a CAS on a FD engine thats how it is , but for me to get the new mark to line up with the pointer I had to install the CAS all the way clockwise but kept the pointers in the cas lined up like the factory says . If I try to install it
where thebolt would be in the middle. it never reached the mark with the timing light

 

interesting... charge that battery and lets see what happens hoping for the best!

 

so, what happened ? or did you give up on that turbo.................... that stock s475 would have been fun

 

i was gunna say i had almost the same issues as you and it turned out to be my timing. hope that works our for u

 

I don't think its my timing anymore, I tried tons of diffrent things
and all resulted in the car running like crap or not wanting to start.
pretty much came down to the turbo being bad. As the RPM build the turbo tends to lock up and not spin fast enough to disperse the exhause causing my engine to choke up... I bought a brand new one now with a smaller turbine wheel and exhaust housing. Just wating on some trick fittings to arrive before firing her up again.

Next is my fuel system
then the Dyno

 

Unless the turbo is defective it is not too big. I had the exact same turbo on an unported REW and it would leave the line at 27 PSI. The last time i heard a story like this someone had a glove that got into the intercooler piping and stopped it up. Make sure a red rag or something didn't get into the piping. If you rev the **** out if it with the piping off you cannot physically block the air with your hand. Can you maybe get a video of it running?

If the timing were super retarded it should spool the turbo even better (antilag) and if it was overly rich it would be killing plugs. What ignition are you running and how do you have it set up (waste spark, direct fire)? It sounds like something in your ignition system or a restriction in your charge air plumbing/intercooler.

Also, how do you have your wastegate controller plumbed?

 

I can rev the motor as hard as I can and I can easily keep my hand on the outlet of the turbo. I double check the wiring again this coming weekend
Its a MicroTech LTX-8 with Bosch coils as per the ignition system

 

Where did you purchase the turbo from?

 

We'll I'll be dammed Ooops egg in my face lol Turns out bubble wrap was wedge inside the intercooler on the inlet side and since it was clear I could not see just by peaking from the front. Once I took the front bumber off I could see it..

The CAR IS A ANIMAL!!!!!!!!!! It boost very quick for being a non BB turbo and T6 frame woot!!!
Now I just need to do my fuel system upgrade and its dyno time

BTW I keep blowing off the intercooler piping off
I'm going to have to send the piping to get bead rolled and add some of those trick intercooler weld on bracing
brackets.. cause if it blows it off at 12PSI, imagine what will happend at 30+ PSI at the dyno day

 

I will be sending you my bill shortly .

 

 

HeHe Well yesterday I put the new turbo on
and got it running today and the car was doing the same thing so
removed the the piping off the outlet of the turbo and this time it would blow off my hand when I rev'd the motor. reconnected it and disconnected the TB piping
and the motor rev'd way better and barely any air was coming out not even enough to blow off some paper I had on the windshield. So I knew either the IC was bad or something was blocking the air. took the piping and intercooler off and thats how I found the buddle wrap... grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr man been a very frustrating few weeks
all for this sh#$$@

 

well this is good news!!!!! glad your boosting, let us know the numbers!