Hey guys,

I had really hoped to make a full thread about my build, detailing all the steps as I went, but I ended up spending all my posting time working on the car. I figure it's time better spent.

Anyway, here we are, 3 months after I started and I'm just doing my finishing touches.

What started out as a fuel filter change and air pump delete on a nearly stock JDM FD turned into a full engine and turbo build. Here's where I stand;

-Engine ported/rebuilt by CPR
-GTX3582R divided T4 turbo
-Tial 44mm wastegate + BOV
-Resonated midpipe, Knightsports cat-back
-Pettit Coolcharge III Intercooler
-Power FC, black dataloggit
-PLX wideband, dual EGTs and multigauge
-1860 secondaries, 850 primaries
-Stage 2 Snow meth injection kit (running pure water)

Almost everything is done. Here's what I have left;

-installing gauge/sensors
-finishing battery reloc (trunk)
-exhaust
-vacuum lines
-meth kit
-tuning
-fluids


I hope to have it done in the next couple of days.

Now, I've got quite a few questions, but I'll start with this one; what has everyone done about their heater core line? I replaced the hard line with rubber hose, but I don't know where to route it to keep it out of the way. Right now I have it running under the turbo/manifold, but that seems like a bad idea. I was thinking maybe I could run it under the intake manifold?

What do you guys suggest?

Here's some pics of the current build, along with some of the coolant line. Any advice on the coolant line or anything else you see would be greatly appreciated.

-Devan

 

sidenote: after looking at a few pictures of what other people have done, I hadn't realized that the heater cores are on the opposite sides for JDM cars.

As such, I should clarify that my heater core line comes through the firewall right under the Greddy elbow and goes over the transmission tunnel, then underneath the turbo/manifold. Hopefully that makes my "under the intake manifold" comment slightly less foolish.

 

Yeah I was going to say the heater hose was going the wrong direction
You just dont want that touching the manifold or downpipe.

 

Yeah, I ended up doing it properly. I bought all new line and ran it over the tranny tunnel, along the firewall and fender and then under and away from the turbo.

In other news, things are looking good. I have the car idling, and the Knightsports exhaust is on. Unfortunately, I forgot to check for a spring in the WG, so I'll have to take that off and put one in.

I still have to install the meth kit, as well as solve my PLX/dataloggit linking issues. Other than that, I just need to put the interior and trunk back together, but the bumper and wheels back on and she should be good to go!

Tomorrow is my 25th birthday. It sure would be swell to have my car on the road for it. Fingers crossed.

 

"I ended up spending all my posting time working on the car"

funny how that happens....

Happy Birthday Devan

just a few observations from your pics which i realise don't show the car in completed form...

make sure you double tiewrap all vac/pressr lines that connect to the upper intake manifold. two lines especially will immediately blow your motor if they come loose. they are the line at the MAP sensor and the Fuel Pressure Regulator.

i see you run resistors on your secondary injectors. the map i sent you is tuned for a Peak and Hold converter so the transition as the secondaries open is linear in the map i sent to you, therefore you will need to add a bunch of fuel at transition.

for more info: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...s%2C+peak+hold

i see no heat shielding between the turbine housing/downpipe and LIM. perhaps you have something and hadn't installed it at the time the pics were taken.

see: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=save+whales, note post one and 33

when you get an opportunity, i suggest you replace the analog fuel pressure gauge w a digital sensor and wire it into your Datalogit. it is really important to be able to know you have proper fuel pressure under boost at top fuel consumption levels. it is also really a great investment, under $100 to not have to call the engine builder to put the pieces back together which is more than $100.

i assume you will have an air filter on the turbo and it just isn't on when the pic was taken.

a couple of other observations... the BOV location is quite unfortunate. airflow is everything and the outside of any turn is of most importance w re to resistance. at the single most important area of the intake flow you have a huge hole. Greddy took great pains to make the 90 degree bend to the TB as smooth as possible. BOV relocation is not something you need to do today but put it on your to-do list for this winter. i like the flat rear non turbo side of the endtank on the IC.

i also suggest to you one of my favorite mods... remove the PS. again, something for later.

please do accept the above as it is offered, constructively.

i think you have done an impressive amount of work in a short time. you have assembled alot of good stuff and have the foundation for what can be a world beater.

the GTX35 turbo by all measures will probably prove out to be the best all around turbo for the FD currently available. it is compact at 18 pounds and can probably do 500 SAE rwhp which turns the FD into a supercar speedwise.

i also very much like the Pettit SMIC, it takes 130 degrees out of the charge air, allows for short runners and doesn't clog up the engine compartment.

take it slow and careful w your FD. i started building mine in 99 and am still in process.

done right, the FD returns the investment.

howard

 

As always, thanks for the input Howard!

Yes, those pictures were taken while the car was still in the process of being assembled. Not everything is properly affixed. I've been taking the manifold off half a dozen times a day lately. Thankfully I think I'm done with that for now.

I will definitely be tie-wrapping all of my lines. Are standard zip-ties sufficient, or is there anything in particular you'd recommend? It's all new Hose Techniques line and very tight, but you can't be too careful.

I have a digital fuel pressure sensor ready to install. That will be going in tonight.

My K&N filter isn't pictured, but it's on now. I'll definitely be changing the BOV position this winter. When I first bought the car it had an aftermarket BOV on the stock location, but it was toast. My Greddy elbow was the only point on my stock system that was metal and my only option for the BOV at the time. I'll definitely be looking into the PS delete as well.

I'm very pleased with the Pettit CC3. as you said, compact and simple plumbing, and thanks to the draw-through fan, there's no heatsoak even when sitting in traffic.

I really appreciate the input. I've never built a car to this depth, and no one in the area knows a thing about rotaries, so it's been a struggle. Don't get me wrong, I've loved every minute of if and can't wait for my car to be done, but it's been tough. Any bits of advice I can get are greatly appreciated, and I don't take things personally. It's a hell of a lot better than learning things the hard way, that's for sure...

-Devan