ok, i just installed my Blitz KKK-27 turbo and this was the first time i started it up... first of all, here is some info that i noticed:

-manifold has a hole in it which was tapped for a temp or afr sensor.. i didnt know that was there and im going to cap it.

- downpipe wasnt bolted up

- wastegate vacuume wasnt hooked up.

- there was no vacuume leaks

- i hooked up these following electrical connections: intake air temp, idle air control, TPS, injectors and the other coolant sensors..

now, the problem was when i first started it today, and it was late so i only got to let it idle for 15 seconds.. im going to move it outside tomorrow and try it some more... here is what the problem was, when it started, the idle was very irratic, and about every 2 seconds, it would studder, for about 5 times.. i started to give it some light gas and when i would let go, it would almost die out.. here is what i did to the car during this installation:

blitz turbo and stainless manifold.
midpipe
aeromotive FPR
1680cc secondary injectors
supra fuel pump
throttle body coolant lines deleted.
PFC and its still set on a BASE MAP

i am going to update this tomorrow but any idea's?? i didnt touch the plug wires or anything ingition related, i just added an additional ground to the ignition brace.


Thanks,

Roman

 

aren't the Base maps always set a little rich? you've added quite a bit of extra fuel flow, it's probably just tuning issues, injector timings and all that jazz.

 

so what i want to know is, is there a map i can download onto my ECU??? i can borrow the datalogit and there are some maps available here but i have 550cc injectors and 1600's.. all of the tuned ones have 850's for the primaries...

Thanks for all the help Guy's, i really appreciate it!!

btw, i didnt want to say this because its not the case here but just to give you an idea, it sounds like its idleing on one rotor.. but its not, trust me..



Thanks again!!.

 

also, i dont know if i did this correct but this is exactly what i capped in my LIM too... i went by this pic:



the blue one with the screw is capped on mine as well as the one with the red cap. now, since i still have the FPD and 550cc injectors, will that make and difference?? i think one of those is used for the stock fuel system...

Thanks!

 

whata are your idle setting on the pfc???

i had the same problem, but i think u have gazo's map on your pfc

make sure u erase it and get it to the base map

and let the pfc learn the idle

that fizxed my problem till tuning

GL man

 

what is your base fuel pressure, it should be around 38psi.

that blue cap helps atomize fuel for the primary injectors...see that little port just above the primary ports. The charge pipe creates a pressure differential/turbulance to mix the air and fuel.

the red cap is where the stock FPR gets its signal from.

 

the blue nipple with sscrew in it i left uncapped and directed to turbo compressor housing

 

Are you talking about this one?

 

yes, i am... thats the one...


also, the cars battery has been off for like 3 weeks, do you think the pfc has to re-learn the idle???

 

hi there
the blue should be cap liked in the pics but the red one have to hook to the solenoid valve where is the Fuel Pressure Regulator line hook up to
Sonny

 

i dont have any solenoid valves... i just hooked up the pressure regulator to a vacuume source on the front side of the UIM... is that wrong???

also, about the lue vacuume hose that i have capped, is that right??? i heard somewhere if you still have to stock primarie injectors, you need that hooked up to a vacuume source... is this correct?? i belive it was newbernd that was the one who told me and the pic is from his website too...

Thanks~

 

i have to used one of the solenoid for the Fuel Pressure Regulator line hook up to.it is the very last one from the solenoid rack

 

the blue one is rite,the pressure regulator to a vacuume source on the front side of the UIM is wrong

 

Either one would be fine for an aftermarket FPR - both nipples are after the throttle body, and will show the same amount of vaccum or boost.

 

did the promblem go away

 

can u explain that sonny

i have it connect the same as the roman

 

ok the problem went away. here are some things i noticed:

-fuel pressure is 30psi.. showing on the FPR jeg's guage. i adjust the screw and it doesnt do anything.

-the car is getting 5.8% duty cycle on idle

-when i use the commander on the pfc to check sensors (ect >> sensor/sw check) i am getting fuel injector highlited and its showing 4.8v, everything else on that screen is reading about 1.** volts... what can that be??? is that a problem that its showing???

also, the car sputters some a little but i reved it to about 5.5k rpm and its ok... it just

 

did you do what i showed you ?

 

Hey Roman.. Since I took that pic (few years ago) I have since re-hooked up the blue line. With it capped, I had annoying hesitation/lean condition on throttle tip-in. It made the car annoying to drive. I recently plumbed it back in (pressurized after the turbo) and it makes the car 200% better to drive. I would now encourage anyone to leave this line connected if you have side-feed primary injectors.

As for the red line, it's just a vacuum tap. If you need one down there, use it. I didn't.

Good luck.

 

Bern,

Where did you tap the line into?

 

I added another tap to the compressor cover, by the outlet. I suppose it it could be anywhere after the turbo but before the throttle body.

..dave

 

i have top feed secondaries but side feed primaries.. do you think that would do it??? also, here is another problem that i noticed:
my Aeromotive FPR is reading like 30lbs of fuel pressure and when i rev it to like 5500 rpm, it shows it as high as 60 lbs!! thats without intercooler pipes connected.. and when i heard of the sensor check option on the pfc, i went ahead and used it. i went to etc or whatever the last option is on the commander and went on sensor/ sw check... the "FUEL" was highlighted in a box and it was reading 4.8V what is this and is this an error??? if so, how do i fix it???

Thanks,
-Roman

 

What's your fuel pressure with the vacuum line disconnected and the FPR resistor jumpered? It should be right around 40. If it isn't, this is where you adjust your base fuel pressure.

the FUEL sensor in the PFC is the fuel temp sensor, which you have eliminated. Ignore that.

 

so with the car on or off?? with the car off and the fuel pump jumped to be pumping, its around 30 lbs... and i try to adjust it but it does nothing... with the car on today, it was around 41-45... the idle isnt holding very well so when the idle goes up and down around 650-1100, so the the needle on the fpr guage... and when i revved it to about 5.5k rpm, the guage jumped to about 60 psi!! thats insanly high!! without intercooler pipes connected!

 

If the car is idling at 41 to 45, that's way too high.

Make sure you are coming from the fuel rail at the side of the fuel pressure regulator and to the return line at the bottom of the fuel pressure regulator.

Counterclockwise on the adjustor will make the pressure go lower, clockwise higher.

With the car off, jump the relay so the pump runs on high. The fuel pressure should be set to 38PSI,(static).

When the car is running and the vaccum line is connected, your idle pressure should be in the 30PSI range. When you coast and the vaccum is high, you may see the pressure dip to 27 or so and that is normal.

You want the fuel pressure vac line as close to the combustion chamber as possible to be 100% accurate. Use your vac nipple with the red cap on it for the fuel pressure regulator! Do not use the vac nipple near the throttle body. And do not tap anything else into this line.