Speaking of which I heard Gaby was able to extract 685rwhp out Freddy's 13BT.

 

That is true.

 

There's a thread floating around somewhere in here that states that RA has conceded that their apex seal springs are not as good as the stock Mazda OEM units.
The stock Mazda OEM springs are heat treated (no surprise) and show hints of Inconel (mild surprise).
The RA's are none of the above.

I've never been a fan of ANY of the aftermarket apex seals, but a lot of people have bought them.

Remember Hurley?
I thought they were too soft - sure enough, this was the case, and now Hurley's rep is pretty bad.

Atkins - sounds too soft; there is evidence that is popping up that this is so.

RA - ultra hard seals -> longer break-in; springs are not manufacturered like stock OEM Mazda - sure enough, this is all coming true; I think those using RA springs are going to see compression and performance dropping as the seals start getting close to the 100k miles mark (daily driver).
Heat fatigue is going to be a big factor that affects the inferior springs.
I also think the harder apex seals are going to start to show premature wear on the rotor housings.
Only time will tell...
The price was a big hint...

I still believe stock OEM Mazda is the way to go for almost all (turbo) applications.
Funny, it's all coming back around...


-Ted

 

my apex seals are from hayes according to the previous owner......whats the word on those? now u got me worrying lol

 

Ok Here is the Final
Graph

Been driving the car everyday(low boost setting only so far)
since the Dyno
and its a blast
car idles and runs smooth
very responsive
_____

 

Kabooski,

If I am reading the info with the two graphs right, you made about 400 rwtq at 16 psi, then you made 415 rwtq at about 20 psi. Something doesn't add up. Four more pounds of boost would give you more than 15 more ft*lbs.

You sure that 16 psi run wasn't really a 20 psi run? (I'm talking about the run with 503 peak hp)

Thanks,
Brian

 

We kept having to click up the boost controller
since it did not want to raise boost pass the spring rate

I kept asking the tunner
"what PSI was that run done at?"

448 15 PSI
468 15 PSI
476 15 PSI
479 15 PSI
479 15 PSI
then 501 16 spikes to 17
then 503 16 spikes to 17
then 508 17
then 511 18
then 520 a mix of 19 - 20 PSI on the datalog (mostly 19's)

I got a sheet of the 1st pull
I'm trying to find some good batts for my cam
so I can take a Pic grrrr

1st pull = 362 TQ
476 HP= 379 TQ (can be seen on the 1st sheet I posted)

didnt' get any others

Remeber rotarys are no Torque monsters
also I told you I have a Voltage issue
Im getting 11.8 Volts @ wide open throttle
most you guys with FDs are getting 14v+

My coils are voltage dependant
same goes for the fuel pump
more volts= more flow
for my coils
more volts= more spark

 

Ok here is the 1st pull
prior to this pull
The tuner went over the fuel and timming curves
TPS, water, etc maps and cleaned them up

Then he started to really tune
HP on the left - TQ on the right

 

You have any maps that go higher than 6500??? Thats a hell of a straight HP line straight up

Looks nice man, I bet your about as poud as can be

Stephen

 

we never went over 7300 RPM in any pulls
we did not need too


_

Roger@CFI Racing

 

Yeah, we didn't go over 7k on any of my runs either. I am another satisfied customer

 

looking at the times from ur 1st pull to ur final pull,was less than 30min.damn he works fast too.

 

if ya don't mind me asking how much does this guy charge for tuning? and is he willing to travel up north :P

 

Wow with 520rwhp you will be running low 10s or high 9s. Your car most feel realy fast.
Maybe we can set a little race up?

 

can u explain your fuel setup? what pumps your running and how you have them hooked up? stock lines? in tank? thanks!

 

Hey Willie
did not know you even posted here
when i spoke to you tonight

and no it takes much more power to run low 10's High 9's
With me in the car it weights about 2900ILB+

It took sporty auto's FD 620 HP
to run 9.8 with ET streets and a bad *** suspension

I got a stock suspension


We can race

only if you keep your car @ 5 PSI
Drag Radial for Drag Radial wendsday?
at OSW

since you called me out here LoL
I'll do the same in Fuel ****
to spice things up there

 

Oh and to be fair to you
I'll run ya on low boost

 

Let make it come to win race all botton up.

 

tee hee hee this is going to be the official "pistons vs. rotors"

 

Uhm, not to be rude but what the **** did you just say?

 

The race will be done all button up, come to win. If you do not understang that get out of racing dude.

 

good job

 

So do you have some pics of your porting?

 

I also have no idea what the hell you are saying. BUT, what I do know is that I don't have to understand your poor grammar, and local gibberish, to race.

So, care to explain it to those of us who have an education, Dude?

 

So guess this blows the water injection theory...if you (kabooski) can run above 20psi without water injection? I'd better find a good f***ing tuner!