Oh and after looking at the timming again
its not at all too much diffrent then what I have above
seems I had it almost nailed
(kabooski is good )

I'll dilvulge
another thing

I run a 10 split
on the higher rpm/boost levels
and more split down low

Hope that helps

 

Wow, very impressive #s indeed. Congrats

 

the reason i ask about the af is because i wanted to see if the numbers are on teh impressive side ore just average. having a 10.5 rather then 12.5 afr on a 400whp is around 20 whp diffrence, i was just wondering where you had your af. this is a very large turbine and with a good port there is no reason it SHOULDNT be makign 479whp at 15 psi.
and your timign table thing there doesnt make much sence, unless maybe you typed it in wrong.

 

HG= vacuum
+ = advance
- = retarded

PSI= Pounds per square Inch

I knew before hand
my car was going to put down some numbers
The Engine sounded so damm strong and mean sounding
It has a NASTY port Job
I mean in design.. not size
since the 13BT's do not have alot of material in the side housings
to work with compared to 12A's and otthers


MazdaTrix
proves this with a cut out view
of the early 13BT plates

Will see soon what she can do in the 1/4 Mile
I need to fix a loose diff mount
install some adjustable shocks and a Roll Cage

before hitting the track

 

What A/R are you running?

 

microtech does timing by load and by rpm there are 2 curves, i think you gave us the load curve, and ofcourse without the rpm curve that is useless

 

Congrats Roger!
It's amazing the difference tuning or tuners can make when they understand or are familar with a particular setup.
Time for the track now!


Sounds familar!

 

Thanks Chris!

Finally all the hard work I have put into my car has paid off

Thats why you Rock Chris!
your a Great tunner and a great "Rotary" guy
and That my friend is a beautiful combination

 

Where might we find this thread? Thanks.

 

I've taken that econ class, actually two or three of them. They basically said stuff like 'screw people as much as you can without getting caught and losing lots of business,' 'Build the crappiest product that you can sell at a high profit margin, it will reduce manufacturing costs,' and 'Marketing can increase demand, don't neglect marketing.'

I've also taken a few more physics and engineering classes. I've gathered that bean-counters and economists are often a hindrance to progress. Lots of great things came from people with dreams who were willing to put their own money into their ideas, and this sort of thing is on the decline in recent years.

Since the rotary engine is so short on engineers and developers compared to piston motors, I think that sharing info is a good idea in this case, when it comes to important things such as the ones that were shared after I made my comments. Thanks to Kabooski for being big about this.

Thank you, RETed, you're absolutely correct there. I understand that I'm not capable of tuning an ECU, and that a rotary is not exactly the place to learn. However, when I get an ECU and have it tuned by a pro, I'd like to be able to give them as much helpful input as possible, if they ask for it.



... and now I'll get back to lurking; I don't feel I know enough to be posting much in this section yet...

-s-

 

awesome numbers man. keep us updated. I just bought myself a set of the RA seals and am glad they are working out for you.

 

Make sure to buy a set of OEM apex seal springs
do not use the RA springs

 

Kabooski -

Your #'s on the sheet you showed me:

3750 RPM = 130 RWHP
4000 RPM = 140 RWHP
4350 RPM = 200 RWHP
4500 RPM = 240 RWHP
4800 RPM = 300 RWHP
5000 RPM = 335 RWHP
5400 RPM = 380 RWHP
5500 RPM = 405 RWHP
6000 RPM = 450 RWHP
6500 RPM = 485 RWHP
6650 RPM = 498 RWHP
7000 RPM = 503 RWHP

You can see your power is really waking up in the upper 4k range. Good dyno!

 

Why not? Are they proven to not work?

B

 

I have this same turbo brand new. Roger is already using what would be considered a smaller(than typical) hotside, I have a hotside from my MKIV Supra that is one size down. Perhaps we can get 90% of the power with some earlier spool... OR, ???

Roger, did you get my PM on the two different trims? You can call me at 707-696-2705, Carl

 

I'd love too see your boost graphed vs RPM, I'll bet that it "wakes up" above 20 psi. What are you using for boost control? If you are using an MBC, a spring, or any other BC that does not use a computer controlled solenoid, you have ALOT of response to be gained with a good EBC. Carl

 

The question now is, will you run 10's?

 

coulda wished if it was tuned w/ 91/93 octane instead of having a c16 mix along w/ it for practicality.

good nos. nonetheless!

 

How much does this tuner charge? Does he have a website or some contact information?

This is good news for me, I also went with the RA seals and OEM springs, not so sure on the port job though. I had Rx7store.net port my housings, they looked okay except for the front iron, which didnt look so good... I went back and cleaned them up a bit.

 

i had the same problem with the ra springs. your motor will lose compression when it warms up. i am using the stock springs and seals now in my dee built motor and they work great

 

I got a .81 A/R housing
P trim
im pretty sure thats whst it has

For boost controll , I am using The new Profec B Type S

I have yet to really tune the "gain"
but it feels ok

If you get enough people I'm sure he would be willing to fly out and tune

He is tunning some cars today
couple of microtech
and 1 Haltech car

 

How do I get ahold of him though? Does he tune AEM EMS's as well? How much does he charge?

 

We could help you tune your AEM if your in need of someone in the midwest with Rotary AEM experience. I am a fan of factory seals and springs also.

 

I don't mean to be disagreeable, but I would really love to see proof of this. I've setup several engines that run these springs including one that got more than just "warm" yet didn't lose any compression at all. Is this merely just rumour or is there any bonafiable, substantive evidence to this?

B

 

With respect to timing what are the signs or reading you guys are looking for.
Not withstanding a knock.....I mean after a base run and the A/F and torque is (lets say good to go) then you retard and advance segments of rpm with regards to boost , then look to see if it improves are not? Then clean up A/F after? Hp will show enough difference before too much advance/retard is enough to hurt the motor in tunning? I have done carb and EFI on the old rotorcap only.
nonturbo and no timing slpits.