HKS 2835's
#1
HKS 2835's
Hi Guys.
I have been towing with the idea of going for the HKS 2835 twins set up on my 13B FD3S.
Tried doing a search but havent had much joy. Does anyone have a picture of how the HKS 2835 set up would look in the engine bay (i.e do they have a parrallel set up or not) also what power is the HKS 2835 set up rated for on a 13B engine?
All input and help appreciated!
Mak
I have been towing with the idea of going for the HKS 2835 twins set up on my 13B FD3S.
Tried doing a search but havent had much joy. Does anyone have a picture of how the HKS 2835 set up would look in the engine bay (i.e do they have a parrallel set up or not) also what power is the HKS 2835 set up rated for on a 13B engine?
All input and help appreciated!
Mak
#2
I know a few have been done, but most people run 3037's. You can find a few JDM FD's running those setups. What are you looking to get out of this setup beside looks? If your looking for certain performance, you can get the same performance by choosing a decent single setup for you needs without the cost of 2 turbos and a very expensive manifold, 2 wastegates, etc.
#3
Thanks for the reply buddy.
I would like to try something different thats all. A friend suggested the 2835 setup but I have yet to see a picture of an FD engine bay running the 2835 / 30378 set ups, does anyone have a picture!?
Performance wise, I have been told the 2835's would spool up in no time. However, what kind of power would the twin 2835 set up create on a 13B engine?
Thanks for the input ppl!
I would like to try something different thats all. A friend suggested the 2835 setup but I have yet to see a picture of an FD engine bay running the 2835 / 30378 set ups, does anyone have a picture!?
Performance wise, I have been told the 2835's would spool up in no time. However, what kind of power would the twin 2835 set up create on a 13B engine?
Thanks for the input ppl!
#5
#6
Since your BP, if you wanted to go with twins, go with the 3037's with the larger A/R, I believe it's .96 if I remember right. You will still have great spool time, I believe 2835's would be pretty small since it sounds like you would have a pretty stout setup. But as I said before, you may get the same performance out of a single setup and spend less money.
#7
this is probably the best example of aftermarket twins on an fd i have ever seen
http://www.turbomagazine.com/feature...ur_mazda_rx_7/
http://www.turbomagazine.com/feature...ur_mazda_rx_7/
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#8
Thanks for the replies guys.
Marcel yours is one sweeet set up!
boostin13b - I am only contemplating using the twin 2835 set up as my friend can get me a used set on the cheap.
With a BP and twin 2835's, what power should you see on a 13B engine?
EZFD - that dude has spent some dough on his car!
Marcel yours is one sweeet set up!
boostin13b - I am only contemplating using the twin 2835 set up as my friend can get me a used set on the cheap.
With a BP and twin 2835's, what power should you see on a 13B engine?
EZFD - that dude has spent some dough on his car!
#10
The 2835's have T25 turbines which are too small for a bridged motor , the smallest I would suggest is a stage 111 T3 turbine wheel in a 0.68 a/r housing . Mine are a bit larger but the lag is almost non-existant 'cause they are both dual BB.
#11
Racing Rotary Since 1983
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a bridge need a really non restrictive exhaust so as to decrease the new charge being polluted w the old. the more restriction from anything bolted onto your exhaust port the worse the new charge pollution. that's on top of non BP'd rotaries needing less restriction than piston engines.
therefore, sizing the hot side is most crucial.
the family of turbos you mention has a number of hotside sizes that range from really too small to being o k but not great. it will be important for you to find out the hotside A/R and wheel size.
area of the turbine wheel ranges from 2.62 to 3.07 sq inches. times 2 turbos gets you in the O, P, Q range of 5.4, 5.9 and 6.6 sq inches. you really don't want the turbos if the hot wheel is the 1.64 inch minor. my hotsides total 9.04 sq in.
the key will be the A/R of the hotside. while A/Rs relate to each family and are therefore different in absolute terms you need a minimum of .86. if you have less very bad things will happen very quickly. excess backpressure and heat will split the turbine housing and will impede power. do not do the deal unless you run a .86 turbine housing.
on the cold side... output ranges from 29 to 35 pounds per minute. that, times two, translates into 446 to 507 rw rotary hp, maximum. personally, going thru the work w twins, i would want something more powerwise. there are some nice medium range turbos that efficiently make in the 40-44 pound range, the gt2835 isn't one of them.
prepare for a long journey if you do this. mine is finally nearing it's potential after 3 years of riding the learning curve and has 9800 miles on it. if you search for a thread entitled something like "5000 miles on my twins" you will find a picture. i can assure you there are easier ways to make power but for some twisted minds, like mine, it is fun to have something different and there are some advantages.
good luck,
howard coleman
therefore, sizing the hot side is most crucial.
the family of turbos you mention has a number of hotside sizes that range from really too small to being o k but not great. it will be important for you to find out the hotside A/R and wheel size.
area of the turbine wheel ranges from 2.62 to 3.07 sq inches. times 2 turbos gets you in the O, P, Q range of 5.4, 5.9 and 6.6 sq inches. you really don't want the turbos if the hot wheel is the 1.64 inch minor. my hotsides total 9.04 sq in.
the key will be the A/R of the hotside. while A/Rs relate to each family and are therefore different in absolute terms you need a minimum of .86. if you have less very bad things will happen very quickly. excess backpressure and heat will split the turbine housing and will impede power. do not do the deal unless you run a .86 turbine housing.
on the cold side... output ranges from 29 to 35 pounds per minute. that, times two, translates into 446 to 507 rw rotary hp, maximum. personally, going thru the work w twins, i would want something more powerwise. there are some nice medium range turbos that efficiently make in the 40-44 pound range, the gt2835 isn't one of them.
prepare for a long journey if you do this. mine is finally nearing it's potential after 3 years of riding the learning curve and has 9800 miles on it. if you search for a thread entitled something like "5000 miles on my twins" you will find a picture. i can assure you there are easier ways to make power but for some twisted minds, like mine, it is fun to have something different and there are some advantages.
good luck,
howard coleman
Last edited by Howard Coleman; 10-05-06 at 09:02 AM.
#12
Originally Posted by howard coleman
i can assure you there are easier ways to make power but for some twisted minds, like mine, it is fun to have something different and there are some advantages.
You can say that again.
#13
Side note, HKS makes one GT2835R model that has a really big turbine wheel on it.
Funny, cause I can't find this wheel option for any Garrett GT2835 model (i.e. GT2871R).
I wouldn't mind messing around with that particular HKS GT2835R, but it's not worth a couple thousand dollars per turbo for just the bigger turbine wheel.
HKS -> 56.5mm turbine inducer / 53.6mm turbine exducer "90T"
Compare that with the biggest Garrett GT2871R @ 53.85mm (turbine inducer?) "76T"...
-Ted
Funny, cause I can't find this wheel option for any Garrett GT2835 model (i.e. GT2871R).
I wouldn't mind messing around with that particular HKS GT2835R, but it's not worth a couple thousand dollars per turbo for just the bigger turbine wheel.
HKS -> 56.5mm turbine inducer / 53.6mm turbine exducer "90T"
Compare that with the biggest Garrett GT2871R @ 53.85mm (turbine inducer?) "76T"...
-Ted