boosted rotor, my post was a bit harsh towards you. I apologize. Replied late last night after a party. One too many beers I guess.

 

it's cool, but my turbo cost signifcantly more than 1800, when you add the bb option and q-trim..
as far as the guy who doubted the liklihood of this car doing well in the ussc....lets see, this car is not made to go down a drag strip, it was built for the road course....hks coilovers, m2 toelinks trailing arms, racing beat swaybars, diff brace, brembo grantourismo brakes, usually all that crap isn't for going straight, the only reason i have such a big turbo is for highway runs

 

the guys name was bad dog......we're not a buch of idiots building a car here, we have looked at the rules and are building the car around that......

 

Wow, more than 1800? I was quoted at $1895 for their GT66 which I believe came with a P or Q trim, full ball bearing, water cooled center section.

I'd ditch the HKS shocks if I were you. Undoubtedly the rubber you'll use will make a greater difference, but there are better coil-over setups out there that have superior damping. I'd consider a set of triple adjustable Penskes or if you want something that'll drop right in and is double adjustable, go with Aragosta out of Japan. Also, www.ntechengineering.com can get you a four wheel Brembo kit that was designed by Mark Valasik(sp?) that's a substantial step up from their front-only kit.

I think what Tony was trying to say (Badog) is that it's often best to keep it simple, consistent, and most importantly, to finish. All of the past winners didn't necessarily place in the top three in every category. The 350Z winning this year really emphasizes that. If you're putting down a solid 380-400hp at low boost settings, you can win given a proper suspension setup. Ya just have to finish!

 

Amen. I just want to live longer then the rest of you all...

Like I said, we'll root for you if you enter the FD. But you'll have to make us proud by being smart.

 

I just went and timed my T78 and from when i turn it off from idle, and go to the front of the car to look at the turbo its already stoped! LOL

 

Do your wheels hit the housings? I know my TD07 comes close but has been that way since day one. Also Mitsu turbos run larger clearances than garretts.
My restrictor is right at the turbo. To stop the oil from draining onto my header I put in a .060" but once that cured the problem I eventually upped the size to .081" and still no oil drips so that's what I have been running for over 3k miles. The restrictor itself is the banjo bolt I drilled/taped for a 1/16" socket head pipe plug. I drilled a few plugs to .060", .070" and a .081". I did it this way so I could "tune" my oil restrictor. I think the feed banjo bolt in my turbo is M10x1.5 and I'm assuming yours is the same. It's pretty easy to turn the bolt itself to a restrictor, all you need is a 1/4" drill bit and a 1/16" pipe tap. After to drill/tap it all you need to do is head down to the hardware store and pick up some socket head pipe plugs and some small *** drill bits.

 

Yep, thats how I thought of doing it...but as a shortcut I used a dowel pin in the fitting leading up to the banjo bolt. Reduced the area by about half. Just came back from driving around on assignment and no such luck...still blowing oil. I may try a slightly larger pin to see if that works. There is about triple the amount of shaft play as there was when I first received the turbo from Majestic. Its definitely increasing with time. I believe its starting to come into contact with the turbine housing. I try not to get into boost anymore. The new turbo arrived this morning I may try your method tonight. Ace Harware is right next door to the paper and they always have the stuff Im looking for!

 

Hey, Ace is the place!

 

i hope we do well also, we have a really good driver, steve "genghis" kahn, he is also the tuner and the mechanic.....i can drive, but not good enough to represent the rx-7's....as far as the parts we have chosen, such as the coilovers and brakes, we got really really really good deals on them, plus this is a street car, not a full blown race car with unlimited budget..

to the guy that said innovative quoted him the turbo for 1800, yeah me too until i added the bb opition(list 400), q-trim(list 400) and polishing....it's not cheap...

 

blah

 

I'll be the main driver for the competition so tuning and driving shouldn't be an issue. My main objective it to dyno 550rwhp, traps 130+mph, 25mpg, and still pass emission in this car. We'll see how it goes.

 

I was quoted $1895 WITH the ball bearing option, GT66 turbo, Q trim unpolished.

 

You know what else I would consider for the car? An M2 rollcage (or maybe Steve and the guys at Gotham could weld something up?). Would make a BIG difference in handling.

 

about $1900!? Thats about half of what I would have to pay for one localy :-(

 

Damn, but the exchange rate (Euros) is so good now...not so your local currency?

 

Not to hi-jack this thread but how does the Gt42 BB compare to this GT66?

 

A bit bigger...you'd really need to do a custom hot side or have an all-out drag car for one of those. They come standard with something like a 5" V-band setup. There's one at the local shop. I'll try and swing by and take a pic side by side with my GT40(82).
Michel

 

My local currency is very good against USD at this time. I would just have to know where to buy from

 

Thx for the reply. The Gt42 BB w/1.22 A/R was what I'm planning on using for my 20b.

 

The GT42R is a very good choice for a 20B, not only can I get my hands on them really quickly but I can give you numbers as what to expect and when and what setup to go with. Backed by alot of experience with the setup . Give me a call if you get a chance Monday,ask for Sean


-Sean