and then you need to make a run with one of those sensors after the turbo,

 

Ratio isn't that bad, I'm pretty sure those figures are guage pressure so its (31+14.5)/(48+14.5)= 0.8 IMP:EMP or 1.24 EMP:IMP absolute pressures which sounds fine compared to a lot of OEM or "response" setups.

 

That seems even more promising.

I will revert in due time with emap data on mine. Be good to see what emap the G351050 1.21ar is running at 26-28psi. Hopefully, its not a shocking 2:1 ratio lol!
So far the expectation would be between 1.3:1 or 1.5:1.

 

Things are about to get REAL in the 100-200 Leaderboard! Word on the street is Omar's (Raceonly) close to recording a supersonic draggy run, and let's just say my comfy second-place seat is starting to feel a little warm. This might be my victory lap before getting knocked down a peg, so I had to snag a screenshot for the history books! Added stock FD's as a reference.

 

The 100-200 leaderboard just went supersonic! Omar from Raceonly has unlocked the world of draggy data collection and is loving it!

This was a run is his RX7 FD running the below mods.

Turbo - Precision 6885 1.28ar 38psi
Gearbox - F80/82 DCT
Engine - 13b Bridge port
Fuel - E85

This is a run in a full fat Rx7 with Apple Carplay and AC.

See below 100-200 run done on the streets of Mexico.

You Tube

While it stings to lose a spot on the leaderboard, Omar's 13B with a DCT is a game-changer. This setup pushes into 1000whp territory typically dominated by GTRs, Turbo Ss, R8s, and Huracans! The DCT might be controversial, but with a 13B pushing that kind of power, a stock transmission wouldn't stand a chance. At these levels, even 550+hp is risky for stock gearboxes.



Top marks! Sharing your setup and real-world data is the kind of content we all crave (seriously, thanks!).

 

awesome performance, but really get’s me on edge to see people posting vids flying up on or by non-car people in their family vehicles …
.

 

An accurate reflection of shitty driving standards in Australia with people not keeping left. Looks like somewhere M4/M7.
Looks like shift control is running well.

 

sure, it happens a lot in many places; the realities of a physical existence. I’m not trying to judge or condemn, but we can’t let the excitement of the moment trap us into a false security. Even if the other driver does something wrong or makes a mistake, there's a certain responsibility we all need to understand and be prepared to execute.

Even if it means tirelessly waiting for a more open, less congested opportunity. Otherwise a teenager texting, or young parent distracted by a child in the car, or a senior citizen caught out by someone coming up on them that fast, is not a situation either they or us need to suffer the consequences of if things don’t go as normal.

As in any safety related scenario, you can get away with something numerous times, but it’s the one time a limb or life is lost that we come face-face with reality. No amount of video glory is worth that. They didn’t go out on a race track accepting the consequences of what might happen that day when others don’t follow the rule of law. Please forgive me for writing all this just to point out the obvious; we need to keep reminding each other to exercise more care and caution when operating in such a manner on the public streets.
.

 

You mean the streets of mexico !!!

On the Autobahn, there is better lane discipline but you'll always have the odd person who is completely clueless of a car behind coming at 300kph. Max from the AutoTop NL youtube channel also complains about the same thing but does get the job done safely.

 

100-200 Leaderboard for 13B RX-7s.​

This 100-200 leaderboard was created to see how our 13B RX-7s perform in the real world. It's all about pushing your car to its limits on the streets (safely, of course) and seeing how it stacks up. No cheating with drag strips or fancy prepped surfaces, just pure street performance.

Draggy video overlay and report is required for verification and validation. This means no one can cheat and again not sure why anyone would want to?

Here's the nitty-gritty:

Engine - Must have a 13B engine. No exceptions, gotta be 13B power only! No NOS

Transmission: Anything goes! OEM, dog box, sequential, DCT, ZF8, Autos, aftermarket H-patterns - whatever gets your wheels spinning.

Differential: Stock diff or aftermarket is fine. No electric drive trains or rockets bolted to the diff. Remember, 13B power only!

Fuel: Any fuel is allowed including Race fuel.

Tyres: Street legal tyres only. No drag racing wheels or slicks allowed. Real world street performance, not a prepped track showdown.

The Rules: It's all about having fun and pushing our RX-7s to their limits. No hard feelings if you beat me (although I was bummed to lose that 2nd place spot!).

Above all keep it safe for you and everyone else. The preference is all runs are carried out on private roads and empty streets of Mexico or unprepped surfaces on Vmax events.

 

That guy in the van at end of the run would have s**t his pants.
I'm with Team on this (for once). To me that video (although very impressive from a performance standpoint) demonstrated extreme lack of regard for other road users. If you can't find somewhere to do it with no other traffic present .... don't do it. IMO

 

Congrats Omar! Moving out strong!
I have mine running on the DCT now.
I'm definitely not fast like Omars time but I anticipate something in the 5's, 100-200 Km/h

Steve

 

Indeed, a strong performance from Omar.

Congrats and well done on getting your DCT up and running. Can you rerun your 100-200 at the same boost level 22psi so we can document the dct advantage via Draggy? I believe you ran a 6.26 previously with the manual box. ill need a draggy overlay and draggy report as usual. Something tells me i'm about to loose 3rd place on the leaderboard.

Will you be increasing boost beyond 22psi?

 

Will circuit track times count? We have some long straights here, not really wanting to push on the street, and circuit isn't the same as a prepped drag track..

 

The concern is a dedicated race track or circuit will have higher grip surface and specially on a dry day with rubber being laid down. They will have higher grip surface than say the streets where there is absolutely no additional traction advantage.

That being said send the draggy overlay video and report and we'll cross that bridge when we get to it. I would rather get data on your setup if you can do it safely than none at all.

 

waiting for the 100+ page rules book to be printed off
.

 

Street tires, no prepped track, 2 rotor in an FD body shell.

Post up your rx8 times for fun.

I know I'll be way off the front runners but it's still fun to compare

 

Yeah man, that's the plan, run the same road, same boost and such... trying my best to closely replicate the 6.2 run.
Gonna be interesting... at 15psi it already feels stronger with the DCT.

Steve

 

“street tires” without further details only demonstrates not fully understanding the reality of various situations. I started off with just the smiley only because I had previously explained how all the variables make most comparisons moot, but it will fall on deaf ears again just as before. Then added the rulebook comment, because people without that experience are likely not to understand those sort of intricacies.

no race tires, but race engines ok, same for transmissions, race fuel, blah-blah

clean aged concrete is usually the best grip source, better than many asphalt track surfaces, who will actually know otherwise

what treadwear street tires? what size wheel/tires?


that’s all a bunch of tomfoolery and being silly; just run your run and post it already with the understanding that it's all just for kicks and fun i.e. never, ever go full too-serious tard over something that will never actually matter.

and do it safely, please
.

 

Post #435. Street tires = street legal tires. Simple.

I'm glad we have non-rx7 owners cheering us along.

Get a Dragy and post up your times for fun.

 

Sounds amazing and it would be great to see a 15psi 100-200 with the dct as a base line.

 

 

It would seem that some are still living under a rock in 2024 and fail to understand the benefit of having a 100-200km/h Leaderboard.

I will try my best to explain in this post for the benefit of all owners who may be thinking of joining the party and also for those that are satisfied to observe real world results.

The Dragy 100-200 is a measure of how fast your car accelerates from 100 km/h to 200 km/h. This specific test eliminates a ton of variables that can mess up comparisons, making it a great way to see how your car stacks up against others, no matter where you are in the world. Dragy's data is like a universal translator for car nerds – it lets you compare apples to apples, across continents, across platforms! This approach also influences the rules for the RX7 leaderboard. Meaning you can compare your RX7s real world acceleration against your friends hellcat/ GTR/ Turbo S etc... you get the idea.

Here's how it works:

1. Setup: The Dragy device is typically attached to the vehicle or placed inside it, using GPS technology to accurately measure speed and time.

2. Acceleration: The vehicle accelerates from 100 km/h as quickly as possible until it reaches 200 km/h. It's that simple.

3. Measurement: The Dragy device records the time taken for this acceleration phase, providing a precise measurement of the vehicle's acceleration performance.

By concentrating on the 100-200 km/h speed range, this measurement offers insights into a vehicle's acceleration in other words power under the curve (and not just dyno pub peak hp numbers).

Remember, even "fun" can be informative and sharing real world 100-200 results will contribute to the overall 13b RX7 knowledge base tested and validated in the real world i.e real results.

Bravery and courage stand as the defining characteristics that distinguish the men from the boys and the wolves from the sheep. Those on the leaderboard have embraced this challenge with unwavering determination and resilience, contributing tangible real-world results. This data holds to me more value than mere theoretical conjecture or dyno figures tossed around at pubs.

 

Careful what you wish for, guys. Be safe out there.

I've seen car forums on the evening news and I sure wouldn't want my profile pic up front and center advocating for this. Advertisers are what keeps this site going and they definitely wouldn't want to see their company logo alongside certain headlines either. Its a quick way to kill a forum and that is a minimal side note to the real world implications.

Run your **** but don't put innocent people in jeopardy.

 

My current fuel pump, the Bosch 044, seems maxed out around 23-24psi. It's not cutting it for maintaining stable fuel flow.

As most of you know my mate with the 1000whp GTR gave me twin walbro 450s. I'm thinking a singe walbro 450 high pressure pump might be the answer. It should flow more fuel and handle the higher pressure better, keeping differential fuel pressure stable at higher boost pressures.



Overall, on paper it seems like the Walbro 450 could be the fix. The thought process is 50psi base fuel pressure + 30psi boost pressure = 80psi which seems like the walbro will flow 302lph vs 262lph, so an approximate 15% increase in fuel flow. I hope this is enough. Time will tell.

My motto is only fix what is broken and hoping the walbro can do the job.

Running the feed in tank baffle which seems to be working.

Got the bosch 044 out and in comparison it doesn't inspire confidence as it's half the size. (Thats what she said!!)

The walbro 450 high pressure pump is in.

Rusty OEM fuel hanger still hanging in there. Mad to think its got me in the 5s 100-200 range.

Also got a new v3 aem nozzle to replace the old v2 version as a cycle of life improvement.


My logs were showing something funky with the WMI injection flow, and after spending a couple of minutes chasing the gremlin, I finally got to the bottom of it.

Turns out, the AEM filter decided to self-destruct in spectacular fashion, splitting right down the middle and causing a huge leak. Here's the kicker: I only noticed because the pressure would drop whenever the WMI system kicked in, which I saw during a cold engine AEM controller test.

If I was still rocking a PFC, this engine probably would have blown up five times over (by now) and I wouldn't have even known it. Seriously, modern ECU's are a lifesaver, and spending the time to analyze logs objectively like a detective is the only reason I caught this before disaster struck.

Long story short, the logs showed my injectors were running at a 2% higher duty cycle than expected when the WMI was spraying. Tracking down that little 2% loss led me right to the culprit.

No easy wins here, but once again, data logging proves its worth. Thanks to accurate info, this whole mess got caught before anything bad happened.