external fuel pump opinions needed...
#26
Originally Posted by mono4lamar
oh yeah and what do you guys think of the aeromotive 700 HP EFI fuel pump? its 5 bucks more and the only difference is the flow characteristics the a1000 goes for 1000 hp, flows 500lbs per hour, and requires 10 an fittings. the 700 HP EFI fuel pump flows for 150-800, flows 450lbs per hour, and uses 8 an inlet and 6 an outlet.
two possible stupid questions... these are both alcohol capable correct? and would using adapters do anything for fuel pressure or efficiency? going bigger to smaller or smaller to bigger? i always wondered this... thanks again!
-Lance
two possible stupid questions... these are both alcohol capable correct? and would using adapters do anything for fuel pressure or efficiency? going bigger to smaller or smaller to bigger? i always wondered this... thanks again!
-Lance
I have a Wedon 2035 with a sumped tank. I have a -12 feed from the tank to a 40 micron filter before the pump and a 10 micron right after. Then -10 up to the rails where it y's into -8's. Then out of each rail with -6's to the Weldon FPR. It then has a -6 return. I have 1 of my factory fuel lines still there in case the single 6 isn't enough but i don't see that being a problem. I also have the Wedon "dial-a-flow" fuel pump regulator. It dials down the pump until it's needed which makes it quieter and increases pump life.
Most people that i know run a 40 micron before and a 10 micron after. But whatever works for you. I would also recommend getting the aeromotive fuel pump regulator. From what i've heard the A1000's are prone to burning up when not regulated.......but i would imagine most pumps would ran at full tilt on the street. Also, don't make any sharp bends before the pump. Don't want to make the pump work harder than it has to. And just try and keep the rest of the system as smooth flowing as possible.
Good luck and just take your time. The fuel system is not something to rush or go cheap on.
#29
Its very important to follow the instuctions carefully when you install your external pump!
-- proper Fuse protection
-- proper Gauge wire
-- proper Ground
-- proper Relay
-- proper location, low as possible (gravity)
-- proper Filters, before and after pump
-- proper fuel pump turn off switch
-- proper sized feed
-- Proper sized Fuel regulator and return line back to the tank
good luck
-R
-- proper Fuse protection
-- proper Gauge wire
-- proper Ground
-- proper Relay
-- proper location, low as possible (gravity)
-- proper Filters, before and after pump
-- proper fuel pump turn off switch
-- proper sized feed
-- Proper sized Fuel regulator and return line back to the tank
good luck
-R
#32
Thread Starter
In the burnout box...
iTrader: (32)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,453
Likes: 2
From: New York
i get it now.... im sorry for stating the returnless system. i didnt think about how you run the return line into the top of the tank.
im just going to ask some more questions to clarify and get the valuable info from you smart guys. so i get a sump kit from Summit or Jegs to fill the hole in the top of the tank where the pump use to be... (and links to the kit or part numbers?). weld a bung to the rear lowest portion of the fuel tank and route the line directly to the pump. i remember someone stating to not crip the line from the tank to the pump cause that will cause a restriction. yet i would like to place the pump out of the view and hopefully somewhere to keep the noise from projecting and dynamat wrap the thing possibly (is there any better way to go about routing the line this way?) and is there any good places in your mind that would be a good location to mount the pump?
i think thats all my questions at this point! i want to thank you guys again for all the help on this. i see its really simple stuff now but i just have never done it so in the begging i could not see how it works. thanks for all the help! you guys rock
-Lance
im just going to ask some more questions to clarify and get the valuable info from you smart guys. so i get a sump kit from Summit or Jegs to fill the hole in the top of the tank where the pump use to be... (and links to the kit or part numbers?). weld a bung to the rear lowest portion of the fuel tank and route the line directly to the pump. i remember someone stating to not crip the line from the tank to the pump cause that will cause a restriction. yet i would like to place the pump out of the view and hopefully somewhere to keep the noise from projecting and dynamat wrap the thing possibly (is there any better way to go about routing the line this way?) and is there any good places in your mind that would be a good location to mount the pump?
i think thats all my questions at this point! i want to thank you guys again for all the help on this. i see its really simple stuff now but i just have never done it so in the begging i could not see how it works. thanks for all the help! you guys rock
-Lance
#33
Thread Starter
In the burnout box...
iTrader: (32)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,453
Likes: 2
From: New York
is this a proper relay kit for the fuel pump?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
Should i buy one of those weld on sump bins or should i just weld in a bung? Eric welded in the bung and it seems very simple. yet if putting that bin in is required for track i need to do it i guess then.
Also what i do about the top of the tank where the fuel pump use to be? i know the return line is going to be routed there but i dont have the tank down so i cant really see what im suppose to do about it. please dont cyber slap me.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
Should i buy one of those weld on sump bins or should i just weld in a bung? Eric welded in the bung and it seems very simple. yet if putting that bin in is required for track i need to do it i guess then.
Also what i do about the top of the tank where the fuel pump use to be? i know the return line is going to be routed there but i dont have the tank down so i cant really see what im suppose to do about it. please dont cyber slap me.
#35
Originally Posted by mono4lamar
is this a proper relay kit for the fuel pump?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
Should i buy one of those weld on sump bins or should i just weld in a bung? Eric welded in the bung and it seems very simple. yet if putting that bin in is required for track i need to do it i guess then.
Also what i do about the top of the tank where the fuel pump use to be? i know the return line is going to be routed there but i dont have the tank down so i cant really see what im suppose to do about it. please dont cyber slap me.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
Should i buy one of those weld on sump bins or should i just weld in a bung? Eric welded in the bung and it seems very simple. yet if putting that bin in is required for track i need to do it i guess then.
Also what i do about the top of the tank where the fuel pump use to be? i know the return line is going to be routed there but i dont have the tank down so i cant really see what im suppose to do about it. please dont cyber slap me.
#36
Originally Posted by gonzz
You running a haltech? It as a fuel pump relay built in.
Ah! thanks for that Steve, I was about to order that same one. I figured I'd need a fuel pump relay
#39
Originally Posted by mono4lamar
^ nope im runnin the pfc...
Gonzz what do you think about my sump situation? are you required to have a sump bin to run at the track? can i get away with eric's bung method?
Gonzz what do you think about my sump situation? are you required to have a sump bin to run at the track? can i get away with eric's bung method?
#41
You don't "have" to have a sump....it's just preference. You could even drill and tap the tank and just put a fitting in there but that's not the best way to do it. If you want easy then just weld a fitting in the bottom. I did it my way so i could modify the baffling inside the tank. As far as the top of the tank just leave the factory stuff in place. You won't need anything up there other than wiring at most and the return.
I mounted my fuel pump behind the bumper by cutting the bumper support away. It fits nicely and is out of sight. It's all up to you and how much you can live with. Just keep things simple and you'll be happier in the end. In case you have to get to anything in a hurry.
I mounted my fuel pump behind the bumper by cutting the bumper support away. It fits nicely and is out of sight. It's all up to you and how much you can live with. Just keep things simple and you'll be happier in the end. In case you have to get to anything in a hurry.
#42
Originally Posted by FrankV702
Is the fuel filter coming from the tank into the fuel pump a neccessity?
#43
Thread Starter
In the burnout box...
iTrader: (32)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,453
Likes: 2
From: New York
^ do you have any shots of your car on the ground? how visable is the sump? i want to run a diffuser on the rear of the car at one point so im just wondering how thats going to be effected... thanks for all the help so far!
#44
Originally Posted by mono4lamar
^ do you have any shots of your car on the ground? how visable is the sump? i want to run a diffuser on the rear of the car at one point so im just wondering how thats going to be effected... thanks for all the help so far!
No problem! I know how it is trying something for the 1st time. You just want to be sure of everything before starting so you don't mess anything up. It's better to ask questions than to think you know it all and end up having major issues.
#46
The aeromotive fuel pump controller is a must if you run the A1000 or even the stock pump. It is wired with a relay so you dont need to purchase one. It also slows and speeds the pump by supplying more voltage when at higher RPM's
Putting a external pump in a FC would be the same as a FD or any other car. You can sump or weld a bung or drill a hole and use a bulkhead fitting. I used the sump even though its highly visable from the outside, but the extra baffeling that you drill in to the stock tank would help with any fuel starvation problems you my have.
Putting a external pump in a FC would be the same as a FD or any other car. You can sump or weld a bung or drill a hole and use a bulkhead fitting. I used the sump even though its highly visable from the outside, but the extra baffeling that you drill in to the stock tank would help with any fuel starvation problems you my have.
#48
If you were using the car strickly for drag racing I dont think it would matter since its only working for a short period of time. Now if you plan on using it on the street I would strongly suggest getting.
#49
Originally Posted by Rocking Rotary
If you were using the car strickly for drag racing I dont think it would matter since its only working for a short period of time. Now if you plan on using it on the street I would strongly suggest getting.
Carl