Evans Cooling Systems!!!!!!!
#1
Evans Cooling Systems!!!!!!!
Anyone in here using or tried the Evans Coolant in their rx-7?
check out>>>www.evanscooling.com
Seems like some good!
crispeed
check out>>>www.evanscooling.com
Seems like some good!
crispeed
#5
The stuff is great. I was one of the very first people to actually use it through Pineapple Racing. (I'm his test subject alot of times.) As far as costs go, i think its $20+shipping.
I beleive that Rob won't warrenty a 3rd gen motor without this stuff running in the car. CJ
I beleive that Rob won't warrenty a 3rd gen motor without this stuff running in the car. CJ
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#9
The only bad thing about the stuff is, it does'nt like to be contaminated with anything. No water or old coolant.
Its great for winter, because instead of expanding like water/coolant does, Evans shrinks.
I run it in my 3rd gen. This elimates the ast splitting, and the radiator from exploding. After all, it is a 0 psi system.
If you want to order some stuff contact Rob at 503-233-3878, just tell him that i sent ya, and he should give you a pretty good deal.
CJ
Its great for winter, because instead of expanding like water/coolant does, Evans shrinks.
I run it in my 3rd gen. This elimates the ast splitting, and the radiator from exploding. After all, it is a 0 psi system.
If you want to order some stuff contact Rob at 503-233-3878, just tell him that i sent ya, and he should give you a pretty good deal.
CJ
#11
Originally posted by soul assassin
so what is the best way to flush the system before adding this stuff?
so what is the best way to flush the system before adding this stuff?
Some of the cool features of Evans NPG are (1) no water means no corrosion, thus no need to flush and refill every year (it's a lifetime product), (2) it works great a zero pressure (370 degree boiling point), (3) it remains liquid until 70 degrees below zero and shrinks instead of expanding, and never freezes (just turns slushy), (4) it does not nucleate boil, so heat transfer is much better than conventional coolant (typically you can run 2 degrees more spark advance, for more power). And when you drain the NPG for other reasons (swaping engine, etc.), you just put it right back in when you're done.
Rob says that the stock cooling system components are just fine, provided everything is clean and maintained (no gunk in radiator, new thermostat, etc). Rob also offers a money back guarantee, which he has only had to honor once (and the returned coolant was extremely contaminated, which indicated the customer didn't follow instructions). I believe he sells it for $26 per gallon, or $24 per gallon for 4 gallons or more. Yes, it costs quite a bit, but for what it provides, it's a bargain! $60 for coolant vs. $500+ for a high-performance aluminum radiator?
#14
What components need to be changed to run the coolant in an FD? For instance, what cap do you use, and do you run an AST? I understand the flushing instructions, but I need to know if I need to get any parts.
This looks like a very cool product (pun intended)!
Thanks,
-Max
This looks like a very cool product (pun intended)!
Thanks,
-Max
#15
I'm currently using the stock ast, and radiator. All i did was drain the motor/radiator as best i could. Then, i put in the Seirra, drove it for about 50 miles (Over a couple days.) Drained it again. Then installed the evans. For a 0 psi cap, all you have to do is remove the little o ring on the radaitor cap. Don't forget to take a vacuum, and suck out all of the old coolant out of the over flow bottle. CJ
#16
Hmmm, I've read about their stuff before. But I thought that you had to have their radiator and other hardware to use it. So you're saying that I could use it with my Fluidyne radiator? I assume they provide a 0 psi radiator cap?
If I don't need a new radiator, I'll probably go with their stuff when I get my new engine ... since the system is already drained.
If I don't need a new radiator, I'll probably go with their stuff when I get my new engine ... since the system is already drained.
#17
The timing of this thread couldn't be more perfect. It just so happens that I'm due for my anual coolant replacement, and I have been thinking about giving the Evans NPG a try.
Question: Those of you who are using it, what should I expect to see on my temp gauge? Lower temps, same temps, or higher temps? It wasn't quite clear to me when I read the Evans website. They say that the NPG doesn't absorb as much heat as water in liquid form, but since it has a higher boiling point, local boiling is minimized, which greatly aids in heat transfer. I guess it seems to me that if you are removing more heat from the engine, that heat has to go somewhere, so your coolant temps should be slightly higher....but that's just a guess. I want to hear from those who actually use the stuff.
Anyone care to comment on how their temperature readings have changed since using the NPG?
Question: Those of you who are using it, what should I expect to see on my temp gauge? Lower temps, same temps, or higher temps? It wasn't quite clear to me when I read the Evans website. They say that the NPG doesn't absorb as much heat as water in liquid form, but since it has a higher boiling point, local boiling is minimized, which greatly aids in heat transfer. I guess it seems to me that if you are removing more heat from the engine, that heat has to go somewhere, so your coolant temps should be slightly higher....but that's just a guess. I want to hear from those who actually use the stuff.
Anyone care to comment on how their temperature readings have changed since using the NPG?
#18
Sorry, it does'nt come with one. To make a 0 psi radiator cap, all you have to do is remove the little rubber seal, on the bottom of the cap.
As for readings, it stays just the same. However, a friend of mine who is running a Streetport/non seq./E6k, says that its about 5-10* cooler after a hard run vs having the normal coolant mix with water wetter.
The stuff heats up so much faster though, its amazing.
CJ
As for readings, it stays just the same. However, a friend of mine who is running a Streetport/non seq./E6k, says that its about 5-10* cooler after a hard run vs having the normal coolant mix with water wetter.
The stuff heats up so much faster though, its amazing.
CJ
#21
Yeah, Sierra is that "pet friendly" alternative coolant, which like Evans is propylene glycol (PG) based, instead of ethylene glycol (EG) as found in conventional coolants. Evans is Non-aquious Propylene Glycol (NPG), which means it doesn't like water, but Sierra, on the other hand, loves water. This means you can flush out the system with water, drain, add straight Sierra, drive around for awhile, drain, and add Evans. This gets you from EG to PG to NPG with minimal contamination.
#22
Originally posted by BOOSTD 7
Hmmm, I've read about their stuff before. But I thought that you had to have their radiator and other hardware to use it. So you're saying that I could use it with my Fluidyne radiator? I assume they provide a 0 psi radiator cap?
If I don't need a new radiator, I'll probably go with their stuff when I get my new engine ... since the system is already drained.
Hmmm, I've read about their stuff before. But I thought that you had to have their radiator and other hardware to use it. So you're saying that I could use it with my Fluidyne radiator? I assume they provide a 0 psi radiator cap?
If I don't need a new radiator, I'll probably go with their stuff when I get my new engine ... since the system is already drained.
#24
Originally posted by Node
would there be any performance gain over stock radiator w/ evans and upgraded radiator w/ evans?
would there be any performance gain over stock radiator w/ evans and upgraded radiator w/ evans?