Engine reliability with single on 10 PSI
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Engine reliability with single on 10 PSI
YEAH YEAH, depends on tuning depends on tuning. i dont want to hear that. And then, depends on the rebuild depends on the rebuild, dont want to hear that either
Suposing i stay rotary Il go sinlge again for shear ease of operation. NO rats nest, no vac lines through the ***, no solenoids, no 5 hoses for intake, simplicity is key with me. No A/c, no PS, no air pump, no cat, no ABS, i like it simple
- my question i am just looking to run 10PSI with a greddy single tdo6SH, 3 inch DP MP and exhaust, blitz dual solenoid EBC, HKS SSQ BOV, power FC w/ commander, larger secondary injectors, fuel pump, fluidyne radiator (maybe ill buy the HKS V-mount ) all gauges, WBo2, EGT, water temp, ETC, Fuel pressure reg,stay with stock IC till i afford the V-mount or a pettit cool charge. Eliminate oil injection and run premix like how i used to.
I have 2 engines, 2500 mile reman and 64k mile stock engine, both in TOP shape. So i can afford to blow one even tho im going to try and not do that, dont we all?
Do you think this setup on 10PSI which is stock like levels will be safe and give the engine a fairly long life? 15-30k at least???
I know the CFM is way different over stock and therefor i know i will make more power than stock. My main concern is reliability, (nothing new to us) extra engine bay room, and a semi fast car. I know more booost to the rotary engine equals less life, so my thinking of 10 PSI should do the trick. I know when i had my old single, 6 PSI was a damn blast! Should crack mid 13s on 10psi right? Im not building it for 1/4 mile performance anyhow. Let me know what you all think!
-james
Suposing i stay rotary Il go sinlge again for shear ease of operation. NO rats nest, no vac lines through the ***, no solenoids, no 5 hoses for intake, simplicity is key with me. No A/c, no PS, no air pump, no cat, no ABS, i like it simple
- my question i am just looking to run 10PSI with a greddy single tdo6SH, 3 inch DP MP and exhaust, blitz dual solenoid EBC, HKS SSQ BOV, power FC w/ commander, larger secondary injectors, fuel pump, fluidyne radiator (maybe ill buy the HKS V-mount ) all gauges, WBo2, EGT, water temp, ETC, Fuel pressure reg,stay with stock IC till i afford the V-mount or a pettit cool charge. Eliminate oil injection and run premix like how i used to.
I have 2 engines, 2500 mile reman and 64k mile stock engine, both in TOP shape. So i can afford to blow one even tho im going to try and not do that, dont we all?
Do you think this setup on 10PSI which is stock like levels will be safe and give the engine a fairly long life? 15-30k at least???
I know the CFM is way different over stock and therefor i know i will make more power than stock. My main concern is reliability, (nothing new to us) extra engine bay room, and a semi fast car. I know more booost to the rotary engine equals less life, so my thinking of 10 PSI should do the trick. I know when i had my old single, 6 PSI was a damn blast! Should crack mid 13s on 10psi right? Im not building it for 1/4 mile performance anyhow. Let me know what you all think!
-james
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it would seem to make sense that with a good rebuild/reman whatever, 10 PSI with GREAT componants tuned properly would ensure a fairly longer than normal engine life. At least a longer life that at 15 psi or more, i know 10 PSI will make me happy with a single turbo.
Anyone have some imput? i know i just posted like 3 mins ago
Anyone have some imput? i know i just posted like 3 mins ago
#6
Rotary Reborn!
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10psi should be fine with the right tuning. I wouldn't think it would be that hard on a motor.
For me I will be running lower then 10psi street and 15psi track. I even have a switch to give me extra boost say +5psi when wanted.
That is when I install the T04B..........
For me I will be running lower then 10psi street and 15psi track. I even have a switch to give me extra boost say +5psi when wanted.
That is when I install the T04B..........
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But wouldn't it also be dependent on which turbo you run. What I mean is if you're running a larger turbo lets say for instance a t-78. 10psi on that is much more air flow than stock. Where as 10 psi on the rx6 would be closer to stock.
-Nic
I didn't see a specific turbo mentioned so like I said I'm just throwing ideas out.
-Nic
I didn't see a specific turbo mentioned so like I said I'm just throwing ideas out.
#11
Brother of the Rotary
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I don't see why a well put together single turbo car should not last 50k miles, even at higher boost
Problem is, hardly anyone has put even close to that much mileage on their single up till now, so really we are all guinea pigs and its just speculation at this point.
Problem is, hardly anyone has put even close to that much mileage on their single up till now, so really we are all guinea pigs and its just speculation at this point.
#14
Brother of the Rotary
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Originally posted by Black Magic
how many single turbo setups do you know of that last past 15-20, i dont think ive ever seen that...
how many single turbo setups do you know of that last past 15-20, i dont think ive ever seen that...
A lot of those guys also drag race etc. This will reduce component life, of course.
I guess you will just have to find out....
#15
I can haz rotary?
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Originally posted by Black Magic
how many single turbo setups do you know of that last past 15-20, i dont think ive ever seen that...
how many single turbo setups do you know of that last past 15-20, i dont think ive ever seen that...
I almost bought one in kentucky with 17K miles, and apexi rx 6.
There are way too many factors to make a leap as you are doing. With that said though, if I had to guess, a stock boost application, with a teeny tiny turbo like you are doing should last as long as a stocker in my opinion. Add to that good tuning, quality engine, lots of prevenative maintence, and I think the car will last a good long time.
#16
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With the small single turbo your running and only 10 psi, you'll last as long or longer than a stock twin car. It will generate less heat, run cooler, make a little more power and more boost doesn't necessarily mean less reliability. You'll be fine for a very long time.
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What if you have a big size turbo like T78 or T51R-Kai on a perfectly tuned engine a bit richer running 20psi with 3mm ceramic iannetti seals, and all the parts that can be modified or changed with performance ones in the engine. I invested on my engine that i ordered $12000, i will be running a Apexi AX74F92 P27, and i expect more than 30K,
What you think? Can it be done?
What you think? Can it be done?
#18
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Originally posted by racer1
What if you have a big size turbo like T78 or T51R-Kai on a perfectly tuned engine a bit richer running 20psi with 3mm ceramic iannetti seals, and all the parts that can be modified or changed with performance ones in the engine. I invested on my engine that i ordered $12000, i will be running a Apexi AX74F92 P27, and i expect more than 30K,
What you think? Can it be done?
What if you have a big size turbo like T78 or T51R-Kai on a perfectly tuned engine a bit richer running 20psi with 3mm ceramic iannetti seals, and all the parts that can be modified or changed with performance ones in the engine. I invested on my engine that i ordered $12000, i will be running a Apexi AX74F92 P27, and i expect more than 30K,
What you think? Can it be done?
#19
Ernie, I think we all need to think about the porting
frenzy. I for one noticed a decrease in performance
after porting- street port. I did go with 8.5 rotors,
which I blame for most of the decrease. I just think
porting is overrated for forced induction rotaries. I
am glad to see a stock reman reinforce my theory.
frenzy. I for one noticed a decrease in performance
after porting- street port. I did go with 8.5 rotors,
which I blame for most of the decrease. I just think
porting is overrated for forced induction rotaries. I
am glad to see a stock reman reinforce my theory.
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