I tried to search but am coming up with conflicting information. Some say go this way and others say no need.

My situation went from a single swap to paper weight!

I got into a 3574 single swap and then some. I changed everything, harness, coils, wires, injectors(550/2000), pullies, hard lines, meth/water kit, tial 44mm, large SMIC...pretty much anything to bolt up to the block. Electronics too, PFC, boost controller, wideband, gauges. I thought I had it all set.

The engine was a 5yr old build with 3mm, ceramic rotors, streetport - never had an issue and it was awesome with the twins at 15psi. It was my 3rd build with only less then 10000kms.

The car will be street driven mainly with pump 94 and 50/50 meth/water - aiming mid 400HP.

Got the single installed and during tuning the engine blew. I do not want to get into details but I need a new engine now.

So what do I build?

I've been suggested the following;
2mm seals
new housings
streetport

My questions come with regards to the following.
- is there a need for race clearanced rotors?
- should the rotating assembly get balanced
- and is there a need for a stud kit

I know these questions keep coming up over and over. I have tried several different searches and keep going in circles. If someone can point me in the right direction it would be appreciated. Thank you

 

As far as the build goes:
Firstly, are you reusing parts from your old motor or are you starting with a different block?
2mm apex seals should be fine, however if you are reusing your rotors that were milled to accept 3mm seals, this will not work.
New rotor housings are always best but cost a pretty penny. If you want to look into an alternative, Goopy Performance can resurface housings. Mine looked awesome when I got them back.
The streetport should be fine for mid 400s.

As far as your questions:
Clearanced rotors are really only necessary when you are building a very high revving motor. As far as I know, same goes for getting the assembly balanced.
A stud kit is only necessary for much higher power levels, if you avoid detonation, you should avoid needing such a kit. I considered doing this to my motor, but the conclusion I came to was that it is not necessary unless I have issues causing detonation. In which case, the appropriate solution is not to use a stud kit, but to fix the issues that are causing detonation.

 

I'm leaning towards new housing and rotors. My old ones are done. I know the 3mm rotors are not going to work.

I've put a lot into this single swap as it is, and now with the engine build, I'm thinking twice about what to put into it. I dont want troubles again.

Thanks

 

New Rotor housings and a pair of stock 2mm matched weight stamp rotors should be all you need.

You dont even need a streetport for mid 400 HP

Looking at your other mods and the turbo you are using Mid 400HP will be easy on a good tune.

BTW: I have New housing and a matched pair of stock 2mm rotors if you need them.

 

race clearancing is good for high RPM, Mazda did it from the factory for the Rx8. New FD rotors come that way too.

balancing, if you have a pair of matched rotors, and don't plan to spin it faster than stock, then you don't need it. however it IS noticeable, and its inexpensive. if you have a pair of non matched rotors, with a some random counterweights, it becomes a good idea.

IMO i'm not really a fan of the studs. i've built a couple and i just don't think they do anything useful, until you get the big studs you have to machine the housings for, then at least you can keep the engine from twisting. or part B, its still going to blow up if you don't tune it right.