That isn't how I had the lines setup, but it could work, and as long as you like the way it sits no worries. If memory serves I believe I fed the secondary rail first looped it back to the primary rear fitting then had the primary front fitting loop up and behind the regulator, then had the regulator go back to the hardline. The regulator exit is the bottom port, it must exit there to give you rail pressure.

The first pic kinda shows it hook the line coming off of the regulator to the primary front port, hook the line coming of off the primary rear port to the secondary front port the two remaining lines are feed and return, hope that helps.

You should have two adapter fittings that allow you to hook directly to the hard lines, they were in the bag with the injector clips. Essentially -5 flare to -6 AN.

Shoot me a email if you have any other questions I finally have a computer that works again.

~S~

 

Does it matter if you feed the primary or secondary rail first? I would think you'd want the fuel coming into the primary rail first.

So if I get it right, you have from the feed hardline, one of the longer lines coming into the front or rear of the secondary rail. Depending on it comes to the front/rear, you then go from the front/rear of the secondary to the rear of the primary. Then from the front of the primary you run that up to the side entrance of the FPR and then you have the other long line run from the bottom of the FPR to the return line.

Just to clarify too, when I say "front" of a fuel rail, I'm thinking of the most visible -6an fitting when looking straight at the engine

 

If your happy with the way it is set up leave it be it will be fine. but yes I went firewall to rear of the secondary, front of secondary 180 to rear of primary, front of primary to up behind and 180 to regulator, bottom of regulator to firewall. The idea of running the secondary rail first is it will pull more fuel than the primaries once the secondaries come on line.

~S~

 

So is this how it should be ran? It's pretty tight from the front of the primary to the FPR, the line is a little long, but it fits.

This shows from the feed hardline into my secondary rail



From the front of the secondary rail to the rear of the primary rail



Shows "bulge" due to the line being a little long, but from the front of the primary rail to the FPR.



Shows the line from the bottom of the FPR to the return hardline



Overall picture





Also, just random, I know these are the hardlines but what is the black thing in this picture and do I need it still?

 

that sir, is your charcoal canister, function, purpose and necessity, I have no clue. I'm gonna say you need it, but I have no idea how it hooks up. Those are questions for more experienced people than myself.

Wanna measure the length of the fuel lines for me pretty please

edit: make sure the connector your water temp sensor for will still plug in with ease, when I went with a top feed secondary I had a bitch of a time getting it to go back on.

 

I'll do a search on the charcoal canister and see if I can find anyone who has the same question.

As far as my fuel lines goes I measured from an fitting to an fitting and these are rough estimates.

Feed hardline to back secondary rail: 20"
FPR to return hardline: 29"
Front secondary to back primary rail: 7"
Front primary to FPR: 10"

Also, the water temp sensor? I don't see any sensors other than the ones on the thermostat.

 

maybe that's the sensor, I'll have to check the fsm, it's on the back of the coolant filler cap IIRC.

Thanks for the lenghts, now I know what I've got to get.

 

The "black thing" leads to the charcoal canister. Put the 180 on the regulator with the line going behind the regulator and the 90 on the primary rail this way your line wont be by the turbo.

~S~

 

Ah! All makes sense now Sean, thank you haha. How much do you think I can sell the 850/1680 injectors for? They are still brand new in their bags. Going to end up using the ID725 and ID2000's.

Also, is the charcoal canister needed?

 

if you never ran them, probably 90 bucks for the 1680s and 80 for the 750s, lemme know how those ID's work for ya, they're on my list to get in a few weeks, but my motor needs rebuilt first.

 

i would not do it like that. i would have them teed off and then into the rails, and then the rails dead end into the FPR.

 

"is the charcoal canister needed?"

i don't use it and found the line channel (alongside the two fuel lines) for it is a perfect spot for my AI line from the rear of the car. my AI line snaps into the grooves and it positions it right under the Greddy elbow.

maybe Mazda knew

hc

 

Sean

Took off the rubber hose from the hard line and cannot figure out how to connect the adapter to the hard line. Is there something I'm missing?

 

Nevermind, got a flaring kit and just flared the hardlines to fit the adapters

 

Bad picture but feed and return are ready to connect once I drop the engine in

Just waiting on ID725 and ID2000 injectors

My 850/1680cc injectors are for sale if anyone is interested.

 

Hmmm I just noticed that the thread I was basing the hardlines for was I think the hardlines in the rats nest and that the FEED line is really the far left and the RETURN is the middle. Can someone confirm this?

 

Bump for answers!

 

Sorry no one replied to your thread on the fuel line setup.

The closet to the chassis leg is the feed and the middle is the return but if your not sure and need to confirm this heres how:

turn ignition on and see which one pumps the gas out during cracking. As for the return Im near 100% its always the middle one.



Also to shed some light on the best fuel rail to be fed first and which is best running to the FPR. The answer is feed the primary first and secondary last as you will have better constant pressure the closer to the FPR will be hardly noticable the difference but every little helps when your pushing the high boosts.

Also charcoal canistor is not needed its to limit the harmful fumes from the fuel and vent the tank so best bet is as follows:
lift the fuel cover in the boot floor and remove the charcoal fuel line and vent the tank from the reason for this is to prevent a fire ball as you could get a drop of fuel/fuel gas down the line which can ignite if theres an engine fire but that is very very very unlikely to happen, just better safe than sorry

Well this is how I see it
hope this helps any others in the future