So whats the easiest way? leaving it on or off the car?

 

off the car.

 

anyway you can...while making damn sure the spring doesn't unload the housing into your face. off the car is probably easier...get another pair of hands helping

be careful...springs that size do pack a punch.

 

haha okay, off the car it is. i couldnt imagine being stuck under a car with a big metal cap thats spring loaded, with no where to go and with my face being between it and the ground.


Also what causes a wastegate to get stuck shut or open? could it be heat? Is there anyway to prevent this...like grease or something, or would that just get burnt up real quick?

 

well, if the diaphram (sp?) is torn it will act like it is stuck closed...so pay attention to the condition of that upon disassembly.

And if the shaft gets bent, if could get stuck open...you'll hear it at idle if this is the case.

It will all make sense once you break it down. Pretty simple gadget.

I've never heard of anyone greasing their WG shaft

 

Im running the 50mm HKS style wastegate.

I think mine is stuck shut.

im boosting up to 14psi (when my boost is set at 10) and i dont hear it opening. So im gonna take it off the car before boosting it hard again. good thing maps are tuned for 14psi. But they are just maps so i would rather run at 10 psi til i get wideband and fine tune things.

If the diaphram is torn...how do i fix that? do they sell them anywhere? Im also replacing the spring with an HKS one, wonder if i cud get a hks diaphram too.

 

I swapped in my last spring with the gate on the car. TiAL 11psi spring in 46mm wastegate.
Figured out once, after it pinned my hand between the chassis and the Aluminum cap, that it wasn't going to work using the muscle brute force method. So I found some really long screws with the same thread pitch and used 4 of them to pull the cap closed to a point where I could thread the remained regular screws. After it was closed up I just removed the long screws and installed the other regular screws in thier place. nice thing about using the long screw method is you can tighten it up slowly ensuring the diaphram doesn't get pinched and is seated correctly.

Grease on the WG shaft will burn off almost instantaneously from exhaust heat. In fact it might be detrimental in that the grease residue left after "burn-off" could cause the shaft to stick and bind.

FWIW,
Crispy

 

good point...hmm...i really should take it apart before i go buying parts. Changing the spring is somethign i will most definately do tho. As far as the diaphragm goes. i gotta take it off the car first i guess.

 

UPDATE:

I havent checked the lines yet. But some people i have talked to say it may be the lines going into the side of the wastegate. Since the lines from the boost controller came as thick rubber ones. and the nipple is mearly mm away from the DP i think the rubber lines could have cracked or melted?

If thats the case if i replaced it with silicon ones. would it be able to withstand the heat better than rubber lines?

 

rubber lines will burn off if they get near any exhaust component. I ran a silicon line behind the DP heat shield, then to the WG.

 

Alrighty, im hoping thats the problem. I think it is since with the rubber hose on the nipple its pretty much touching. Good thing a boost/wtr temp gauge was my first mod. Im gonna put a silicon one. and put it on my agenda to wrap my DP this weekend.

 

I'm installing my 23psi spring this weekend, this should be fun

 

COME AWN muscles...you got this!



LOL

 

23psi spring? wow...haha,

would it hurt to stick the wastegate inbetween a vice. compress it. then thread the screws thru?

i was thinking about getting an authentic HKS 10psi spring. that way i could go up to 20 when im ready for the full tune. But iguess that 5-6 psi spring is good for 10-12 psi for now.

 

hey, you're using my dangler!

 

I'll be using a vice for mine...... when you decide to go with a different spring, buy a name brand spring. You want it to be accurate plus it's only $30 bucks for a spring.

 

30 bux from where? i called RMR and its 47 for an hks 10 pounder. Give me your old spring. =)

 

UPDATE:

So...looks like the twosrus.com mbc failed on me. I tried replacing the rubber hose with a silicon one and that didnt work...So after i decided to eliminate the mbc completely since that is the only thing i have changed really since this started happening. I put a normal vacumm line up from the turbo to the wastegate....and wha laa. WASTEGATE OPENED! MUSIC TO MY EARS! so whats the deal? i dont get it? did the mbc like heat up so bad from being in a rotary engine bay that it like toasted on me. or what.

 

All i know is, that thing coudl have cost me a motor if i wasnt tuned so rich and had really big injectors.