http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=ALM

There you go.

 

I know the diff b/w I.D. and O.D... so is going w/ 2" I.D. pipe ok? or should I do 1 1/2 which is about 1.9" O.D.? I knew that pipe was going to be stronger and easier to weld, that's why I was asking where to get that. I know where to get tubing from, I just did not want to use that on my first one.

 

I guess I should have said anywhere but there! Thanks though, I was hoping I could find it someplace else that can deliver it faster and cheaper. I've ordered though them before.

 

Oh haha, sorry 'bout that. I'll check out for some other places...

 

Other than the way they are measured, what is the difference between "pipe" and "tubing"? Does it have to do with one being thick and one being thin?

 

Yeah. Tubing is usually measured in gauge (I think the thickest burns carries is 16 gauge) and pipe is usually measured in schedule which is pretty beefy.

 

does anyone have a formula or anything to convert gauge and schedule over to inches so I can figure the actual inches or mm?

Thanks

 

Schedule 40 is approx. .125" or 3.175mm

 

tubing is bendable. so mandrel bending is possible. it's also alot easier to work with.
It's also very smooth inside whereas pipe is rough.

Believe it or not heat stay's inside thinner tubing alot better then thick pipe.
i'll post some pics soon

 

I thought you could mandrel bend schedule 40? I think thinking of using schedule 40 327 for a exhaust manifold. Is that going to be very difficult to weld?

I guess the thicker it is (like schedule 40) it can still be mandrel bent but maybe not at a tight enough radius, is that the problem?

 

my bad you can bend pipe but i've never done it. Never even thought to. i've always used tubing.

Most pipe elbows are cast that's why you can get such tight radius.

anyhow you'll be fine using schedule 40. You don't need to use exotic s/s. You'll be fine with 304L. it's so thick nothing could hurt that stuff...LOL.

Welding it you'll find is very easy.

 

WHoops in my earlier post I meant to type 321 not 327 haha

I guess considering that tubing is smooth and you said pipe is rough I'd rather go with tubing. I think since 321 can handle higher temps I'd like to go that route in 16 gauge.

2" outside diameter main runners. 1.75" outside diameter wg runners. 1/4" thick flanges.

How does all that sound? Do most of you guys use the same metal for flanes as you do for your runners?

 

2" o.d. 321 s/s is great.
Flanges however i would recommend at least 3/8" or 1/2" thick.

you should defietely use s/s for flange although it doesn't have to be 321 you can use 304.

 

321 bend in 2" from burns is probably around 35-45$ per 90
304 Sch 10 pipe from mcmaster is $5.50 per 90

I've built manifolds out of inco from burns, 321, and 304 for piston turbo apps as well.
As long as you back purge it, and support the turbo somehow, you'll be fine. If you can't back purge, get some welding flux and wipe it on the inside.
the tubing will probably be prettier, but for my manifold, I've ordered some pipe. Nothing like a 50$ turbo manifold compared to 200-300$ one

 

I hear that!

 

I think you meant to say schedule 10 is ~.125". My 1.5" schedule 10 304L ss pipe has a bit more than .125" thickness. sch10 is thinner than 40.

I just bought my cast weld el's from mcmaster and bought the tubing from the local steel yard. I payed $15 for 3' of the 304l 1.5 and about $30 for some 1/2 304 plate to do both the turbo flange and the engine flange. I'm telling you guys... this is the way to go BUT I think I would go with the 2" if I were to do it over again for a 13b, 12a I'd go with the 1.5".

Oh, FYI.... sch10 1.25" pipe fits perfect to a tial 46mm flange if any of you guys out there have this gate.

 

Your some what right, I was just rushing to tell him it is approximately a 1/8th" thick truth is it will change in thickness depending on pipe diameter as well schedule. So a schedule 10 2" pipe has a wall thickness of .109 a schedule 40 2" has a wall thickness .154. This wall thickness also changes depending on diameter (example) A schedule 10 1" is the same .109 as the 2". Schedule 40 1" is .133 which is thinner than the schedule 40 2" .154 There I hope I truly I confused you.
I thought it was easier to just say approx. 1/8th since it landed between the two we were discussing.

 

hey stephen,

1/2 inch flange at the block and minimum 3/8 flange at the turbo. flanges should be cut w a water jet machine.

howard coleman

 

Hey Setzep how's your manifold holding up? How's the turbine housing? No more boost creep?

 

Hey Enzo! Manifold is holding up 100% and so is the piece you welded to the turbine housing. Boost creep isn't a issue any longer

Thanks again for welding that piece for me!

 

Tubo1 - ( Welding Flux? ) Who makes it? I am very interested. I have always back purged. A manufactures name would be great.

 

Is there any place you can purchase fiberglass tubing for making CAI's?

 

I hate these guys service, but they have what I want and it is reasonably priced on most things.

They do ship fast when it is just off their big list, just don’t count on custom work regardless of how organized you are and how competent they lead you to believe they are.
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=ALM

I am sure there is someone somewhere that can sell the 4” aluminum for less but I haven’t found any. $18 is damn good I think for strait.

What are you building, turbo air intake?

 

Ya reading down a little further you don’t like them much either.

How about these you have to wet them your self but its trick.
http://www.aerosleeves.com/order/?ma...012abc519a4f8d

this is what you can get for a product when using these sleeves. Not to shabby huh?