I have one of these A-Spec shorty manifolds for the FD. It seems like these shorty divided FD manifolds with twin ewgs are rarely if ever made anymore.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...708135f31a.png

it’s welded too, heaven forbid …

I’m not too worried about different or disagreeing opinions, others can do as they will.

some people think I’m always digging on Rob, but no. I was beating the drum loudly over the 3R, but when he’s putting a G35-1050 with a 1.21 Vband and calling it the best manifold ever made or a G40-900 on a choked-up, mostly stock T2, I’m going to point it out for what it is.

So congrats and hats off on making the changes that they did with the G40/T2 engine combo and showing the true potential. The response vs peak output difference of the 0.84 A/R housing in lieu of the 1.06 would be interesting to see. There are a number of things yet to be proven over certain differences of opinion. It will all eventually prove itself out one way or the other though.
.

From the many plug reads I have done while tuning at the shop. Intake manifold is the biggest influencer of variance in fueling between rotors. I have also had many instances where the rotor with the Hotter EGT doesn't end up being the one that fails. Nor does it register as the hot rotor (on EGT) when doing a plug read.

A good back to back for me on this one was changing from an OEM FD intake to Typhoon, EGT's showed Rear rotor being hotter, Plugs showed Front rotor being hotter. I decided not to do any fuel trims and when we pushed that engine hard it was the front rotor that failed, not the rear.

Take from that what you will, but plugs has always been the most accurate form of data to do rotor trimming and intake seems to sway it more than anything else. Can't see I have ever changed an exhaust manifold and seen a change in the plug read as a result. Not saying it is not possible, just saying It's not something I have seen

pro engine builder with almost 50 years experience told me not to bother reading plugs on a rotary

of course he always recommended 11/11.5 plugs for racing and you can’t go any colder in the usual rotary selection …
.

I guess we all have opinions. I didn't always read plugs. I could say that since I have started, it's definitely helped in reducing the amount of engine failures I have had for sure. It has also helped me identify tuning/coil issues during a dyno session before the issue becomes a much more catastrophic issue.

yeah that’s all I intended, everybody skins the cat their own way

but always appreciate your feedback, thanks for sharing.
.

the future is closer than most people realize to avoid the generic vendor compromises and limitations:

.

That's impressive that the printed stainless is pretty much at price point for bulk lot cast gear.

The printed is a very interesting option. Could create transitions and angles that proved impossible with welding methods.

Dang, I have been learning CAD for this exact purpose.

Had some printed parts quoted recently for another application and I was very surprised at how reasonable it was. Hopefully we see more of this in the future!!!

impressive

and some of us are already aware of this, but appropriate for this thread:


so he gave up making $1000/day building manifolds, to hawking t-shirts on youboob instead 🤔
.

^^^ It's nicely made, but......wince each time I see what seems like every Nth American use angle grinders without cutting guards - to spread it on to the next youtube guy to copy cat. Fuck me, don't know anybody locally here who hasn't exploded a cutting disc or ten!

I like guards on my angle grinders but I've literally never exploded a cutting disc. I've chunked them sure, but I think exploding to the point where you'd be worried about shrapnel is probably more indicative of both improper use and shitty consumables used.

the same guy that 3D printed the inconel turbo manifold released another vid a week or two later for a 3D printed intake manifold. It will warm mr2peak’s heart to know he only put a Bosch 68mm DBW throttle body on it. It ended up as a shorter runner single piece rather than upper/lower 2 piece with a water-air intercooler welded in the middle of the plenum.

In the original video that started this particular series, he bought a 13B-REW from an FD3 that burned down in a fire for $950 on eBay. When he tore it down it was in near perfect condition with a beautiful street port, 12mm studs, lightened S4 8.5CR rotors etc. Luckiest find ever …
.

I think there's that old axiom.......those who have, and those that will.....might apply eventually, even if not using alibaba spec discs. Some work places here won't even allow them on site due to frequency of injuries.

Why are you so antagonizing, yet you cry victim every time?

is that antagonizing, or me just referring back to our disagreement on that particular aspect of rotary engine tech as one man to another?

Which for those who didn’t see the thread, it goes back to the AU company Plazmaman stating that in their extensive intake manifold experience, a 70mm-74mm DBW single-plate throttle body is sufficient for 1000 hp on a reciprocating piston turbo engine. Which equates to ~700 - 750 rotary turbo engine hp relative to accepted mass flow rate difference between the two.

but just so we’re clear; I don’t consider your post questioning my intent to be antagonizing at all. Please always feel free to ask or say exactly what’s on your mind. Maybe you should go back and refer to the comments he made to me there even. Which I didn’t consider them antagonizing, but merely responded to the challenge with the facts as I understood them.

That being, there are many 13B turbo engines using 3” OD intercooler piping (~73mm ID @ 16 Ga thickness) and the total combined length/bends and resulting dP is going to be a lot greater than the 3” long 70-74mm ID TB with a milled shaft and plate in the center of it. It would also be fairly simple to measure the dP across the inlet to outlet as well rather than play the internet forum supposition game.

I’m also not a victim, but pointed out the hypocrisy for the off topic statements he pursued about my personal beliefs and commitments.
.

fyi that an RX8 owner I know was able to fit the latest Arctec SS cast manifold with a Pulsar PSR-6262G 0.85 A/R divT4 (G35-900 version) on his RX8 REW conversion. He previously had an old Garrett GTW3884R 1.05 on a similar HKS manifold that had cracked and was leaking. He’s looking for better response in 400-500 whp range on the new setup. He’ll likely post something on here when it’s tuned and dyno’d.


https://artecperformance.com/product...haust-manifold


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...be07a6acd2.jpg
.

Interesting. I was considering a 5862g

Sounds good. I am curious to see how it performs.

The 5862G was my preferred recommendation, but he wanted the 6262G. Which it’s dimensionally identical and likely performs about the same on a street application.
.

Yeah, after looking at the Garretts, looks like it fills a hybrid gap. A G35 770 in Garrett speak, but which doesn't exist as they offer a G30 770 or a G35 900.

I'm wondering if it will flow almost as much as my the old T04Z that came on my car but remove all the lag.

thinking of giving the precision 5862 when it comes out in the next gen

looks like Turblown is releasing an updated version of their shorty cast header. Looks a little better on the longer runner.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8efe3de597.png

I wish Turblown offered their longer runner "EWG" manifold without the spots for the wastegates so it could be used for the IWG turbo's. I'm not a fan of the shorty one for a couple reasons. The flow problem that has been mentioned multiple times on the rear runner is one. The other is how close it puts the turbine housing to the lower intake manifold I think creates some heat management issues with the intake runners. I prefer the turbo to be spaced a little further away so that you can get some substantial heat barrier in there between the turbo and the lower intake manifold. I would also like to see the runner lengths be closer to equal but I honestly don't know how much benefit this has. Would be nice to move the turbo rearward if possible to open up more area in front for a bigger airbox/air filter setup of some sort. It's especially difficult to create a proper airbox when you run a v-mount intercooler. This is just my personal opinion on what a "best" exhaust manifold would be from the perspective of a person running a IWG turbo on a LHD car.

Their longer manifold also puts the turbine close to the lower intake manifold, specially the front runner.

I realize that you can only get so far away from the lower intake manifold simply due to the space constraints in the general area. It's going to be a tight fit regardless but it'd be nice to have at least an inch or so in between the turbine housing and the lower intake. So far the best manifold design I have seen (in my opinion) is the style that Howard Coleman builds. I'd love to have one of them setup for the IWG turbo.

If the manifold runners slope down to the turbo instead of the usual up you can get a little more room between the intake manifold and turbo exhaust housing.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c88a57a4c8.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2dbb606b69.jpg


Its awesome Turblown appears to be working on refining their short cast manifold.

It would be sweet if they offered a version like the manifold I am using that places the turbo far back and down. Fixes IWG flow and clears stock heater core hard and softline.

Has anyone run a G45 size turbo or bigger on the turblow long runner ewg mani on a fd3s?

yes I have a car with a g45 with oem intake manifold on Turblown ewg

@BLUE TII What turbo manifold is this? Who made it?

j9fd3s tracked oy down to being the manifold from the HKS "sport" turbo kit for FC3s.

Though they are rare, they only sell for a couple hundred $ because no one wanted to run T4 flange IWG turbo on rotaries before the EFR turbos.

As you can see from 2nd pic I had to mill the turbo flange at a slight angle to fit the EFR 8374/9180 compressor housing as close to XS LIM as possible for clearance to the unibody.

Turblown has an improved IWG manifold. Excited to see results.

Anyone dyne'd the Artec yet? It's been out for a while

Raceonly has something in the the works!

I'm at a bit of a loss as to why they didn't have the wastegate flange tight under the turbo flange, less manifold volume and you can run the gate outlet on the path those runners go?

Subframe is in the way, not much room there.

Raceonly said they would dyno it about a month ago. I’m really surprised nobody else has dyno’d one yet.

Sometimes things take time. Hit a few other snags with it so working through the issues. First install always takes the longest

Should have a few samples in the next few weeks( currently being machined; these pics below are pre machining) , but as far as a back to back dyno, that will probably take some time...
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...42f4b693b6.jpg

Video of Artic manifold:

this was done at my shop

Do you think it matches a conventional divided manifold for boost threshold?

Doesn't look like you have extraction on that bay, still worth doing even next to the door.

Can we see a dyno printout? We all want to see what the boost threshold is

Very cool video!

a friend has one on an REW in an RX8 chassis with a Pulsar G35-900, but no dyno.

mostly posting to say it fit in the RX8 chassis with REW conversion.
.

Killer, looks great. I'm actually waiting on a Artec and 50mm gate setup to fiddle with on an 8374 as well. Hopefully creep isn't an issue for either of us.

I will have a car on the dyno tomorrow that should answer that

50mm wastegate
8374
Artec manifold
e85
3.5 inch down pipe
exhaust cut out

should really test it out

We do. It goes straight out the drivers side of the car, probably can't see in the video.

To your first question, when you say boost threshold, what do you mean by that?

He did put one in the video I believe, Right towards the end. Shows the different boost levels etc