Alright guys a little bit of an update. So it turns out that precision doesn't make divided housings for the 6768, so I decided to go with a bb 6765 with a divided 1.00 housing. The motor was buttoned up and installed couple weeks ago. Close fit, but it looks great! Have everything sealed up and ready to rock.... except for the intercooler pipes. I am having a hard time finding anyone local that can bend aluminum pipe so I can connect up the intercooler. I was planning on starting up the engine for the first time without them. A friend of mine says that I will blow the turbo seals if I don't have the intercooler connected up. Is this true?? I just wanted to let it idle and heat up so I can remove the air bubbles out of the cooling system and other things, I wasn't going to rev it or boost the turbo. Any thoughts? Comments on this?

 

I bet your friend also replaces muffler bearings.

He's full of it. I ran mine many times without the IC pipes to set idle and check all basics (oil press, temp, etc) and it did nothing to the turbo. Fire it up and do what you gotta do. I'll post up a pic of my gt4094r when it comes in this friday. I should have the old T78 out and the new gt installed and tuned up by mid july. Car is currently getting a ford 8.8 diff swap done.

 

That's what I thought too. Didn't make sense to me why I couldn't start it without the intercooler hooked up. Its just going to run on vacuum, till it reaches operating temp. I wanted to triple check cause I certainly don't have the money to replace the turbo....

 

Well today was the day we finally found out how good of job I rebuilt my motor..... After having to floor the pedal to get it to start, and making minor adjustments for the Power FC to maintain idle it ran better than I was hoping for. But then we noticed a HUGE oil leak from the drivers side of the car. It basically dumped my whole pan of oil on the ground... We believe it is leaking between the front iron and first rotor housing and quite possibly the front cover?? The car did smoke after first start up to burn off all the assembly lubes and crap but after it ran for awhile there was no smoking at all. So I don't believe it is the oil control rings. Anybody have any sense to why this happened?? I rtv'ed the front cover gasket and gave it more than enough time to set?

So what lasted for maybe 15min of fame, ended up in a disaster and now I get to pull the motor back out and tear it apart yet again!

 

check the 2 oil cooler lines in the front.

 

That is one of the first things I checked the oil cooler lines are not leaking at all. It is definitely leaking badly between the front iron and front rotor housing about an inch above where the oil pan and block meet. A theory of mine is I didn't vent the oil pan and the oil was so pressurized it had no where to go. Could this be the problem even though it was just idling and not revving or boosting??

 

Ouch! Good luck.

 

Only thing i could imagine would cause that are warped irons or housings. At idle i dont think there's that much pressure to cause that....at least its never happened to me. Then again, with rotaries anything is possible.

 

I'm going to check within the next few days and make damn sure that's where the source of the leak is. It doesn't make sense to me either, and it wasn't just a trickle little leak, it was pouring out?? Unfortunately I think you are right rotorican85, it is probably a warped iron or housing. When I checked clearances they checked out fine and within spec?? I made sure the tension bolts were torqued correctly and in the proper sequence?......

 

I hope you get this sorted out!
Been there many times myself tracking down something that just doesnt make any logical sense when it comes to these fun motors!!

 

Check the banjo fittings. When I rebuilt my black RHD, I hadn't tightened the banjo fitting fully and it leaked.

thewird

 

Ok so it is definitely leaking between the front cover and front iron, and also the front iron and front rotor housing about 1 inch up from where the oil pan and block meet. I vented the crankcase at the filler neck just to see if that was the problem. Also I noticed the oil pressure on the stock gauge reads at idle between the 60-120 mark and when I rev it a little it goes up to 120? I put 20w-50 in it, so pressure would be a little higher but that seems ridiculously high?? I will do a test to make sure the gauge isn't going wacky. I am so stumped..... Guess I will have to pull it and take it apart

 

When the oil is cold, the oil pressure will be much higher then normal.

thewird

 

Sounds like you didn't silicon the legs on the front plate and housing. If you got sidetracked during assembly, this can easily be over looked. You need to pull it apart. Is your oil gauge bouncing? If so, you need a new oil pressure regulator. They go bad often!

 

I am 99% sure we siliconed all the legs. I was just trying to see if it was something I can fix without tearing it apart again but I am convinced that there is no other solution but that. The front regulator was tested before re-installing and passed all specs but will replace it so I don't have to pull the engine for the third time, in case it all of a sudden went bad.

 

Just thought I would throw in some photos to make this thread interesting while I figure out my oil problem. These photos were taken about 15min before her first startup since the rebuild! Too bad didn't last very long......

 

Thats a good looking fd at least!!

 

That's one he'll of a battery!

 

Stupid auto spell ^^^^ hahahha

 

Yeah I work at Advance Auto so I got a discount for that battery. I might switch to a 51r after my car is running cherry again.....

Thanks Rotorican85, I hope someday it will run as good as it looks lol....

Is it normal on first startup with a brand new pfc computer to have to floor the pedal to get it to start? It seems it starts up quicker after the first time but still have to floor it to get it going? I made sure the fpr was reading 40psi without vacuum and checked for leaks?

 

If you removed the thermowax (cold start) yes. Otherwise no.

thewird

 

Well..... tore the engine apart and nothing seemed out of the ordinary as far as where it was leaking. All legs had evidence of rtv.... Although the front rotor, facing the front iron had quite a bit of oil on the iron face? But how could that oil travel from the face of the iron and leak about an inch up from the oil pan?? Also the front rotor housing doesn't look normal, definitely something went wrong there? The picture is before cleaning, I hope it isn't destroyed.....?

 

twisted/missing/broken oil control ring

 

Update:

Looked more closely at parts and beside the rotor housing having evidence of oil, both rear and front stationary gear o-rings were severely pinched. And one apex seal spring on the front rotor snapped, it was still intact but it broke in one place.

As for the oil control rings... everything looks fine all o-rings were smooth no pinching or twisting, the springs were in their tabs as well as the viton rings.....

As mentioned before all housing legs had rtv, even where it was leaking from.

The front rotor housing cleaned up ok and was just carbon, no severe scraping apparent and all rotor faces are fine with just carbon build up.....

In the end idk what happened that would cause the leak where it was... or why the s.g. o-rings pinched..... Can anyone enlighten??

 

front stationary gear o-ring? maybe im reading it wrong you mean the main seals

also how was the endplay clearance?