All you ebay haters!
#51
Uncle P-Dawg the DSMer
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Originally Posted by t-von
If that's the case just get the cheap manifold ceramic coated to help deal with the differant ways the differant metals will expand and hopefully cut down on stress cracking.
#52
Originally Posted by doridori-rx7
problem with the header on the most basic level is that they use mild steel flanges ( painted with some metallic spray afterwelding to make it look like stainless in pics.. ) then SURFACE weld stainless tube to it.. absolutely the BEST way to get expansion stress on each weld.
Also SSAC seems to have the customer service of a projects crack addict after 12hrs dry..
Also SSAC seems to have the customer service of a projects crack addict after 12hrs dry..
Last edited by The Griffin; 06-22-05 at 09:54 PM.
#53
Rotor Head Extreme
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Originally Posted by 99gst_racer
And there is the point we were trying to make. After paying to have all the welds beefed up and then sending it off to be ceramic coated, you have alot of money in this "inexpensive" manifold. For the money spent, you could have just saved the trouble and bought the bad-***, expensive, proven manifold.
That's not really true. Some quality manifolds you speak of easily cost 500.00 plus. He could easily ceramic coat the cheap $165.00 manifold and pay someone to beef up the welds for an extra $250-$300. Thats $465.00 for a strong ceramic coated manifold that shouldn't have any fitment issues. You compare that to a "QUALITY" manifold that will easily cost 500.00 plus with NO ceramic coating. Add ceramic coating to your expensive proven manifold now your at 700.00 plus. Thats the point!
#54
Uncle P-Dawg the DSMer
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Originally Posted by t-von
That's not really true. Some quality manifolds you speak of easily cost 500.00 plus. He could easily ceramic coat the cheap $165.00 manifold and pay someone to beef up the welds for an extra $250-$300. Thats $465.00 for a strong ceramic coated manifold that shouldn't have any fitment issues. You compare that to a "QUALITY" manifold that will easily cost 500.00 plus with NO ceramic coating. Add ceramic coating to your expensive proven manifold now your at 700.00 plus. Thats the point!
When you spend $500 on a manifold, you are getting thick stainless steel runners and flanges. The welds are clean and professional. It is designed with good flow characteristics and it requires NO modifications before you use the damn thing!
In the automotive world, you get what you pay for. Mod cheap - Mod twice.
It's been a while since I saw a guy run 8's on a XS Power turbo and SSAC manifold....
#55
Rotor Head Extreme
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Originally Posted by 99gst_racer
Any quality manifold will not need to be modified prior to use. That $500 manifold will not need to be coated to "hopefully cut down on stress cracking."
It will if you want that manifold to also cut down on under hood temps. Either way the modified cheaper manifold should hold up and still be cheaper.
It's been a while since I saw a guy run 8's on a XS Power turbo and SSAC manifold....
Yep but that doen't mean that it's not possible either. Anyways I'm not talking about their turbos. Dude don't be so closed minded. Do you really expect anyone to use one of these cheap manifolds for an 8 sec car? If your on a budget, I absolutely see no problem modifying these manifolds to use on a street application.
Last edited by t-von; 06-23-05 at 10:56 PM.
#56
MP T-70 = Fun
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#57
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Originally Posted by sleeperfc
#59
so ...no time for this
flatlandin_man23:
i think your problem is to came posting "All you ebay haters" at this time on your project. Your post intentions are good, 'cause it might clear some doubts about the quality of those products, but just install it an run it at low boost for a while won't tell us how good could be... and is true that if you are happy,,,,that what's matter, but again, it might be to early to post "All you ebay haters" at this point...
I'm using the eBay kit... manifold, bov, wg, turbo etc and i bought almost everything from eBay to run my FD single(https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/fd-experiment-ebay-kit-ra-seals-finally-done-422328/) .... and it worked for me,,,, as I mentioned there, i had problems with the turbo thrust bearing, i replaced with a 360º (turbonetics tuff turbo option) and no problems so far ... I have been driving and racing (430-450 whp) i think 4 months from now with not any problems... though, i would be 100% satisfy if everything last at least 1 year....
keep going and keep us informed how turns out when you really push your car to the limit...hopefully you will be satisfied just like me...
i think your problem is to came posting "All you ebay haters" at this time on your project. Your post intentions are good, 'cause it might clear some doubts about the quality of those products, but just install it an run it at low boost for a while won't tell us how good could be... and is true that if you are happy,,,,that what's matter, but again, it might be to early to post "All you ebay haters" at this point...
I'm using the eBay kit... manifold, bov, wg, turbo etc and i bought almost everything from eBay to run my FD single(https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/fd-experiment-ebay-kit-ra-seals-finally-done-422328/) .... and it worked for me,,,, as I mentioned there, i had problems with the turbo thrust bearing, i replaced with a 360º (turbonetics tuff turbo option) and no problems so far ... I have been driving and racing (430-450 whp) i think 4 months from now with not any problems... though, i would be 100% satisfy if everything last at least 1 year....
keep going and keep us informed how turns out when you really push your car to the limit...hopefully you will be satisfied just like me...
#61
Norcal RX7 Pimp
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Originally Posted by doridori-rx7
I knew this would happen as soon as I typed it..
From my point what I said was not in reference to something that had not been tried .. experimentation on something totally new does not have pages and pages of results to the contrairy, such as this.. so your comparison is moot and very forced...
on 2 psi? how does one have a hard pulling car on 2 psi ? unless the car says Yokomo or Tamiya on it 2psi on a 60-1 is not going to ammount to.... in fact 2psi is not even measureable from the compressor chart, your below min flow specs by quite a bit. this whole 2 psi thing is goofy.. where do you get an actuator or WG spring to open at 2psi ??
From my point what I said was not in reference to something that had not been tried .. experimentation on something totally new does not have pages and pages of results to the contrairy, such as this.. so your comparison is moot and very forced...
on 2 psi? how does one have a hard pulling car on 2 psi ? unless the car says Yokomo or Tamiya on it 2psi on a 60-1 is not going to ammount to.... in fact 2psi is not even measureable from the compressor chart, your below min flow specs by quite a bit. this whole 2 psi thing is goofy.. where do you get an actuator or WG spring to open at 2psi ??
#63
just thought id add my experience i bought one to try, i figured the worst that could happen is it fails so far has lasted perfectly fine for 6 months @16psi i realise this isnt definative proof that they are good just thought id add my experience
#64
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Ok, well it has been a month of boosting now for me. I am currently running 5psi daily. My car runs good and pulls insanely hard now. The only complaint i have is the power comes on pretty late, i still think its because of my exhaust, which i will be changing soon. I now have a MBC, and a walbro 255 fuel pump, next upgrades will be larger injectors and a wideband. Then i will most likely turn the boost up to around 8psi. On 5psi i ran a 15.1 @94 mph at the drags, with a horribly launch and i couldnt get 4th gear to go in. It is def. a mid to high 14 second car now on only 5psi. I will keep updating as i do more stuff and lay down some more times.
Oh by the way, i did a compression test recently, came up 90psi on all 3 faces of front and rear rotors.
Oh by the way, i did a compression test recently, came up 90psi on all 3 faces of front and rear rotors.
#66
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Originally Posted by sleeperfc
#67
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Originally Posted by flatlandin_man23
Ok, well it has been a month of boosting now for me. I am currently running 5psi daily. My car runs good and pulls insanely hard now. The only complaint i have is the power comes on pretty late, i still think its because of my exhaust, which i will be changing soon. I now have a MBC, and a walbro 255 fuel pump, next upgrades will be larger injectors and a wideband. Then i will most likely turn the boost up to around 8psi. On 5psi i ran a 15.1 @94 mph at the drags, with a horribly launch and i couldnt get 4th gear to go in. It is def. a mid to high 14 second car now on only 5psi. I will keep updating as i do more stuff and lay down some more times.
Oh by the way, i did a compression test recently, came up 90psi on all 3 faces of front and rear rotors.
Oh by the way, i did a compression test recently, came up 90psi on all 3 faces of front and rear rotors.
what turbo
#68
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Originally Posted by rx7what
You need to remember a car runs on vacume, so if your normaly at around 8 or 10 pounds of vac and now hes at 2 pounds of boost thats 10 to 12 pounds positve. I ran 5 pounds on my single turbod fd for a long time and it pulled hard. When i bosted in first it broke the tires lose. Also if you read the whole thread he said he was running a 3 pound spring, which they do make. Just my 2 cents. And I like running low boost to make my engine last longer.
#69
Savanna Rx-7
Originally Posted by MARTIN
guy WTF are you talking about??? You are talking some stupid ****. Get your **** str8 before you start giving "advise" or stating a comment... Thats the **** that I hate about some forum members.... They dont know WTF they are talking about and then spread misinformation....
Martin, I think that he meant he had a vacumn betwen his ears or somethign to that affect
Kenn
#70
Senior Member
what he means is that a n/a car has negative manifold pressure not postive. so any postive or neutral manifold pressure measured is quite a gain over a stock.
Originally Posted by MARTIN
guy WTF are you talking about??? You are talking some stupid ****. Get your **** str8 before you start giving "advise" or stating a comment... Thats the **** that I hate about some forum members.... They dont know WTF they are talking about and then spread misinformation....
#71
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Originally Posted by flatlandin_man23
Ok, well it has been a month of boosting now for me. I am currently running 5psi daily. My car runs good and pulls insanely hard now. The only complaint i have is the power comes on pretty late, i still think its because of my exhaust, which i will be changing soon. I now have a MBC, and a walbro 255 fuel pump, next upgrades will be larger injectors and a wideband. Then i will most likely turn the boost up to around 8psi. On 5psi i ran a 15.1 @94 mph at the drags, with a horribly launch and i couldnt get 4th gear to go in. It is def. a mid to high 14 second car now on only 5psi. I will keep updating as i do more stuff and lay down some more times.
Oh by the way, i did a compression test recently, came up 90psi on all 3 faces of front and rear rotors.
Oh by the way, i did a compression test recently, came up 90psi on all 3 faces of front and rear rotors.
#72
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Originally Posted by bobybeach
what he means is that a n/a car has negative manifold pressure not postive. so any postive or neutral manifold pressure measured is quite a gain over a stock.
wrong... a turbo car, and n/a car pull the same vacuum. Thats what a motor does, it sucks air in... and at WOT MP is the atmospheric pressure at your location(depending on alt) that is why n/a cars need a 1bar and turbo's need atleast 2barmap and up.
#73
Originally Posted by MARTIN
wrong... a turbo car, and n/a car pull the same vacuum. Thats what a motor does, it sucks air in... and at WOT MP is the atmospheric pressure at your location(depending on alt) that is why n/a cars need a 1bar and turbo's need atleast 2barmap and up.
#74
tom port.. AKA streetport
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Originally Posted by MARTIN
wrong... a turbo car, and n/a car pull the same vacuum. Thats what a motor does, it sucks air in... and at WOT MP is the atmospheric pressure at your location(depending on alt) that is why n/a cars need a 1bar and turbo's need atleast 2barmap and up.
#75
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holy hell...if you some of you obviously rich bastards would come down off your high horses for a bit, maybe you could actually offer some good advice other than just ripping this guy a new one. He's doing something, with his car, with what he can afford, and apparently so far it's working to his liking, so lay the hell off.
With this ebay stuff that's for sale...i've read just as much good, as I have bad. It seems to be really hit and miss. Maybe he's one of the lucky ones. Time will tell.
With this ebay stuff that's for sale...i've read just as much good, as I have bad. It seems to be really hit and miss. Maybe he's one of the lucky ones. Time will tell.