Adding another pump, using stock hard lines, and SS everywhere else.. $$$ =(
#27
Originally Posted by dubulup
better check the PSI ratings on those compression fittings...the ones I looked at were only rated to 25psi or something pretty low.
#29
multipersonality disorder
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darren, yea.
put these on: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
then these: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
then flare the end
OR, just use these: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
the second costs more than twice as much, but it's easy as pie...useful if you don't trust yourself with a flaring tool.
put these on: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
then these: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
then flare the end
OR, just use these: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
the second costs more than twice as much, but it's easy as pie...useful if you don't trust yourself with a flaring tool.
#31
Senior Member
Originally Posted by GUITARJUNKIE28
OR, just use these: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
the second costs more than twice as much, but it's easy as pie...useful if you don't trust yourself with a flaring tool.
the second costs more than twice as much, but it's easy as pie...useful if you don't trust yourself with a flaring tool.
#32
how it was supposed to go together didn't make sense when looking at it. What exactly do you do with the brass ring inside the fitting?
The brass ring is the ferrrule.
Prepare the tube the fitting is going on by making sure it is cut as close to perpendicular as you can, de- burr the inside and outside, and make sure the tube is perfectly round cross section for the entire section that will be covered by the fitting (it will be distorted near bends).
Slide the nut on the tube, slide the ferrule on and insert the tube all the way into the fitting. Mark the tube at the end of the nut so that you can see if the nut is ciching down properly on the fitting without pushing out the tube.
Tighten.
Superior fittings will have a more advanced ferrule system that greatly reduces leakage- such as the Swagelok fittings that have a front and a back ferrule.
It would also be best to choose a fitting that is made of harder/stronger material than the tube as properly connected screwing the back nut on forces the ferrule against the tube while pushing the tube forward- flairing the tube out infront of the ferrule. I would use a stainless fitting on the stock steel lines- again Swagelok makes these.
Last, what size are the stock fuel hard line tubes? Fraction of an inch or actually a metric size? The fitting must be exactly the right size to work correctly. Swagelok also has metric sized tube fittings.
The brass ring is the ferrrule.
Prepare the tube the fitting is going on by making sure it is cut as close to perpendicular as you can, de- burr the inside and outside, and make sure the tube is perfectly round cross section for the entire section that will be covered by the fitting (it will be distorted near bends).
Slide the nut on the tube, slide the ferrule on and insert the tube all the way into the fitting. Mark the tube at the end of the nut so that you can see if the nut is ciching down properly on the fitting without pushing out the tube.
Tighten.
Superior fittings will have a more advanced ferrule system that greatly reduces leakage- such as the Swagelok fittings that have a front and a back ferrule.
It would also be best to choose a fitting that is made of harder/stronger material than the tube as properly connected screwing the back nut on forces the ferrule against the tube while pushing the tube forward- flairing the tube out infront of the ferrule. I would use a stainless fitting on the stock steel lines- again Swagelok makes these.
Last, what size are the stock fuel hard line tubes? Fraction of an inch or actually a metric size? The fitting must be exactly the right size to work correctly. Swagelok also has metric sized tube fittings.
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