first off, i would like to say whats up to everyone here, my first time posting, so go easy on me.
i got ahold of a 93 touring with some stuff done to it, and it needs more to run right and faster. ill list what it has, what i want to do to it, and if anyone with good knowledge can help me out with my descisions, (which would be anyone) it would be greatly appreciated.

engine is fully rebuilt and was broken in properly, has 3k on it since rebuild
-new rotors
-new rotor housings
-3mm seals
-petitt street port
-all new seals and stuff like that
-the guy claimed some parts on the engine were cry-oed? i guess this allows for cooler running conditions.
-basically all new parts that are needed for a rebuild
-was said to be rebuilt by petitt
-greddy t-78 turbo
-HKS 3in DP
-HKS waste gate
-HKS 3in mid pipe and whatever else to give it 3in all the way back
Everything else is stock on it...
---now this is what i have in mind for it,, if i missed somehing or something else works better or anyone with good knowledge has something to say that will help me out,, LET ME KNOW!!
i want to hit somewhere in the 400 RWHP range running on what ever ammount of boost to do so on pump gas,(93 oc) i know it can be done with the right stuff and proper tuning. i have access to a dyno with WB o2
--850cc primary injectors
--1200cc secondaries,,--- too small to support 400+ HP?
--apexi power Fc with the Commander
--upgraded fuel pump,, what brand to get??
--FPR with guage, what brand is good?
--greddy dual solenoid boost controller
--HKS turbo timer
--greddy A/F guage with 4 wire o2,, worth the $$$??
--all the proper guages,,,oil pres, water temp, oil temp, Air intake temp, the greddy A/f, boost, anything else??
--greddy 3 row FMIC,,, unsure on what piping to get to hook it up, im buying everything from www.optionsauto.com becuase i have an account with them and on their site its kinda confusing with all the damn different piping
--fluidyne radiator
---- i dont know what ignition is good, or what to use. so could anyone help me out on that one???
anything that i might have missed to make the car run right with all the stuff?? or that i might need for better tuning/reliablilty?
--battery will go to the back
--short shifter
--some type of heavy duty clutch,,i had ACT 6puck in mind, like i said i want 400+ hp, so i need a clutch for that, that will take hard street use, hard drag strip use and maybe more HP when i run higher octane and turn up the boost. any honorable mentions???
--i want to change the rear end gear. (final drive) stock is 4.10,, Rx7.com has the 4.30 (JDM spec) and a 4.77 gear,, whats your opinion?? would the 4.77 be way to crazy and i would spin all over the place? is the 4.30 just perfect? let me know!! i want to change though!
thats my list on what i THINK i need, i know theres more that i hope you guys inform me on. is additional injectors and the controller for it needed to support 400+ hp???let me know if so and what i need!
anything else that would make life easier for me and make my car reliable and fast,, please let me know, i open to all your input. like i siad, im new to this forum and rx7s so i need all the good help i can get. thanks to all that help me out and make my dream come true. i love Rx7s, especially mine. thanks

 

Are you sure you're only looking for 400 rwhp? Sounds like you want 550+. With what you have now, I would make sure you have the proper fuel pump, like the Bosch fuel pump or something bigger. With the proper tuning, you should be able to dip into the 400 rwhp number

 

ohh yeah, and BIGER INJECTORS

 

I think the 4.77 ratio rear end would be a little too much for street use.
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For a fuel pump, get the Bosch pump, or just get a second stock pump and run them in parallel.
850cc/1200cc injector setup is enough to support over 400rwhp and up to 500rwhp. You won't need to upgrade them yet.
I am not sure what brand of FPR is best; no one really discuss's this so I ASSUME that there isn't too much of a difference as long as it's a name brand quality part.
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For intercooler piping get thin walled mandrel bent stainless steel piping. You can get the piping from your muffler shop and buy the bends from companies like Burns, Magnaflow, or Summit Racing. Diameter I'm not TOO sure of for a large single 13B, but probably 3" would be nice.
-
Cyro-ed means cyrogenically frozn parts. This is done to strengthen parts (usually all the hard seals, eshaft, rotors, etc)
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Things you need to include:
1) exhaust gas temperature (EGT) gauge
2) good Blow-off valve.
3) limited slip differential (LSD)
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Short shift kits are VERY overrated by the way in my opnion - the benefit you get from them doesn't justify the price which could be used to upgrade other parts instead.
I think an ACT 6-puck clutch disc with a very strong pressure plate would do the job well. There are other popular companies like Clutchmasters and Centerforce which you can look into. Check the Rx-7 Store for clutch kits.
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You should be able to get over 400rwhp @ 13-17 psi with that setup depending on the size/quality of your engine porting and with proper tuning.
Speaking of tuning, which EMS are you going to be using?

 

Be careful who you listen to.

Find a competent tuner/builder or a group of guys nearby that you can trust and that have gone through this before.

Answers:

I agree that a 4.77 is too much but for your goals I question if the 4.3 is needed; personal choice also depends on your wheel&tire choice/overall height.

Your 6-puck clutch will not be fun to drive on the street; personal choice, just be prepared to change later.

Injectors are enough if you tune in the low 11's.

Would consider a Datalogit from RP for tuning ease and flexibility.

Many fuel pump options will do, PM if interested as I have two pumps for sale that will satisfy your hp needs.

FPR is not needed at these power levels.

The Greddy AFR is tough to justify given the low cost widebands that are out now, get a wideband.

Pass on the air intake and oil press gages, gages really are a personal choice. Too difficult to monitor close enough to save a motor for instantaneous failure but will help you sort out issues. Fuel pressure, water temp, boost, and AFRwideband are my personal choices.

Out of time ...

 

thanks for eveyones responses. still a few more things that are unclear to me.

--what ignition system should i run? i was thinking NGK plugs and wires, and i see alot of people using the jacobs ignition setup. any comments on that?
--As for the wide bands mentioned above, i havnt seen any of those for sale on the websites, anyone have any links so i get some prices/ideas? thanks
--Ive heard various things about the EGT guages,, like they are just there to look at and go OOOO AAAHhhh EEEE.. becuase you dont tune off of that, i mean yeah its nice to know the EGT's, is it really needed? let me know! ill probably wind up getting one,,, just seeing what everyones views on it are.
--lastly, just out of curiosity, lets say i get everything i listed, except for the Power FC, commander, and datalogit,,,(money could be an issue) if i turned the boost down to like 7-8PSI, and with the 850/1200cc injectors in the engine, could the stock ECU run that for a little bit untill i get the Power FC and stuff? or be smart and DONT DRIVE IT!? just a simple question. like i said im new to the rotary scene and im still learning. thanks for everyones time, help and info!

 

I think you have the EGT gauge mixed up with the Air/Fuel Ratio meter gauge. Generally, it is the a/f meter that people have just to go "ooo ahhh eee" over although it doe have benefits. If you are serious about having a powerfull AND reliable engine at the same time, it is pretty important to have an EGT gauge. If I had to choose between the A/F and the EGT, I would DEFINITELY go with the EGT. With just one of them though it makes tuning a little difficult. What you need is to get both of them

 

I agree with everything Bridgeported said except this, my B&M is worth it's weight in gold to me (well, not literally) and at $180 from summit racing it is not what I would categorize as expensive. Spending $300+ on a mazdaspeed or c's unit it a waste of $100 though, unless you insist on that brand.

I would also recommend upgrading your whole fuel system, your choice of injectors sounds fine.. but you should really upgrade the pump to a bosch or SR ultimate unit. I would run -8 SS lines from the pump to a high-flow fuel filter (I am using the Aeromotive unit), split the line into two -6 SS lines after the filter and run one to each fuel rail. I would run those lines to an aftermarket FPR from there (Aeromotive, SX) and a single -6 return line. I just ran my return line over to the stock return and clamped it on, it isn't a big deal since it really isn't under pressure at that point. This setup will assure that your fuel system is 100% capable of delivering the fuel you need, I don't think using the stock lines and fpr would be a good choice. An aftermarket fpr also provides an easy place to install a cockpit gauge sending unit. My .02

Matt
93 SSM