Jesus christ....not what i needed to see. I am about to send my 7 to jason and have them do my engine and turbo. It worries me, and its unfortunate that we dont know the cause of the engine failure. When you are about to drop 9k in a car you dont want to hear of someone elses goin out that soon. Any one have last comments before i send it? Are the low compression rotors worth it???

 

Obviously an engine teardown is necessary. Could be anything though...bad injector, fuel pump, etc...again, anything over 400rwhp on the high compression 93+ rotors is not a good idea.

 

RX7 specialties in Canada has a special on new rotor housings. They are about $480 each brand new for the third gen. www.rotaryengine.com

 

double post

 

Steve, what sort of ARs did you tune that car to? Sounds like everyone is stepping up, you'll have your baby back in no time. What fuel did you guys tune with? Steve, what are your thoughts on water injection VS running higher octane fuel on a regular basis? Too many variables always come into play when trying to predict what happened. Does a highway pull from low RPMs put a greater load than a pull from higher rpms?

 

Carl,
The car was tuned to around 10.9:1 a/f. I added an additional of 4% after the tune to make sure that it'll be happy in his area and told him to slowly lean it out if everything seems right. If I have to guess with the 4% more fuel, it should be in the 10.4:1 area. We tuned the car on 93 octane and made at least 25 pulls on the highway. I never see the knock reading go up while tuning nor did I hear a miss or detonation. It's really hard to know what was causing the failure at this time. I just talked to landen and he said that the apex seals didn't exit to the turbo so chances are, either something is crack or stuck inside (side seals?). As far as the debate of running WI vs. race fuel, I still prefer WI over. The reason is that WI provides 4 things that race fuel doesn't.

#1. It cools the intake charge temperature

#2. it prevents hot spots during compression/power stroke

#3. It cleans the internal of the engine (getting rid of carbon build up).

#4. It lowers EGT temp.

Race gas can't do any of those I described above. It's true that race gas burns slower allowing leaner a/f ratio and higher boost but it doesn't reduce temperature or eliminating hot spots which could potentially create detonation.

 

Carl,
The car was tuned to around 10.9:1 a/f. I added an additional of 4% after the tune to make sure that it'll be happy in his area and told him to slowly lean it out if everything seems right. If I have to guess with the 4% more fuel, it should be in the 10.4:1 area. We tuned the car on 93 octane and made at least 25 pulls on the highway. I never see the knock reading go up while tuning nor did I hear a miss or detonation. It's really hard to know what was causing the failure at this time. I just talked to landen and he said that the apex seals didn't exit to the turbo so chances are, either something is crack or stuck inside (side seals?). As far as the debate of running WI vs. race fuel, I still prefer WI over. The reason is that WI provides 4 things that race fuel doesn't.

#1. It cools the intake charge temperature

#2. it prevents hot spots during compression/power stroke

#3. It cleans the internal of the engine (getting rid of carbon build up).

#4. It lowers EGT temp.

Race gas can't do any of those I described above. It's true that race gas burns slower allowing leaner a/f ratio and higher boost but it doesn't reduce temperature or eliminating hot spots which could potentially create detonation.

 

I saw the car up at Gotham a little while ago. Not trying to offend you, but the car came in rigged. The water injection looked like it came from Home Depot. The water lines were way too large, I didn't see any kind of nozzles to atomize the water stream, and there were essentially 2 water jugs in the back of the car with gargen hose fittings for the water lines and the smaller water injection line glued onto them. Gotham refused to touch the system. From the way that setup looked, who knows what else might have been rigged on the car before it came in and overlooked...Don't take shotcuts on these cars. You do and you will blow up and pay more in the future. Go through the entire car and find the cause of the problem before you put in another motor and wate your money. Get rid of that water injection or buy the real thing. Check the engine wiring harness. Replace it if you even consider it being brittle. Check the fuel end electrical system. Just my advise after have owned one of these for over 5 years.

 

OK the only thing thrown together were the containers on the water injection. The lines came with the kit. I bought the water injection kit from coolingmist.com its there dual stage kit. IF you want to argue if it is good or not talk to zerobanger on thers along with others that have installed the kit. All I had even ran on the water injection was the pump and lines going up to the engine. I didn’t really think that something that holds water would be to big of a deal. the container was a short cut but that was it. If I wanted to cut corners on my car then I would not have went with the stage 3 engine hks t51r single and so on. I definitely didn’t go cheap. if you saw my bills. Steve asked me if wanted to stay with the stock diff well I could of done that to but I didn’t want to be working on that down the road so I had them install one. that’s not to cheap. I don’t understand why people say when you don’t go with the highest dollar part to go in out cars we are cutting corners. yes my water injection was not aguamist. It might be the best but this company had done several rx7 so I went with them.

this is the kit I bought.
http://coolingmist.com/detailpage.aspx?pid=01

here is another member that installedsame kit other then it is single stage
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ater+injection

I didn’t not want to pay 300 dollars more just for a fuel cell or so on container.

 

I've installed the aquamist kits and found them to be of much better quality.