Okay, I don't have an FD yet, but I do havea 2001 MR2 Spyder, so getting one shouldn't be a problem. The problem is that I want 600 rwhp. Some are saying it's not possible for a 600 rwhp streetable car. I don't care if it's streetable legally (we all know most RX-7s aren't anymore), just driveable enough for the street. Anyone know a way to do it?

Also, as another question, what are the limits of a T-66 turbo? boost and HP wise? Thanks.

Spyder420

 

There are only two RX-7's in the world with that kind of power....Ari @ RX-7.com and Cam @ Pettit....

Getting your car to that level will be extremely difficult not to mention extremely expensive.

 

You're going to need ALOT of porting, and a big turbo, such as a T-78, T-88, T-76. A T-66 probably won't fit the bill. A custom 4" exhaust may also help.

 

Didn't pluto do 585 rwhp? He has a T-66 with .96 turbine housing.

 

Well that's a shame. I live in northenr VA, about 25 min (if that)from PFS. I'd imagine they could do it if I have the cash. I don't right now since apparently this is even tougher than thought, but I wouldn't mind 600 crank hp either. If a T-66 can put out 500 rwhp, well-tuned, then I would be happy. Not trying to run that power all day long. Just in case I see a modena, lambo, or something worthy of turning up to that level of boost to beat them even worse.

Spyder420

 

Who's pluto? What kind of boost was he running. I suppose if the tuner is REALLY good it could be done. I guess my view could be clouded ever since I saw a guy with a T-70 run a 14.8 second 1/4 mile.

 

If I were you I would stay around 450 - 500 hp cause you will have a shitload of problems with the driveline. 600 hp s really not necessary on a street car. 400 hp will kick your *** around.

 

Way to go Greg! I know someone out here with close to 400 RWHP, and he breaks the wheels loose in 3rd at 60. John Carmack's TT Testarossa breaks the wheels loose at 140, but he has 1600 HP.

 

Jesus, sorry guys, but screw an FD I want that. No just kidding; okay maybe not. ANy videos of that thing or pics of the engine bay. I love TRs. Rode in one from my uncle's dealership (used to work at a ferrari delaership, then owned his own exotic dealership in FL, now owns an 11,000 sq ft restoration shop and does all of Champion porsches aero & wheel work) and thought it was about the greatest car ever made.

Okay back on topic. Yes, Who is Pluto? I was hoping for the breaking the wheels loose at 100 that was stated in another post. That'd be fun. So what are the limits of a T-66, and what's a good rwhp figure for a well configured, tuned, and safe T-66? I wouldn't really want to run more than 25 psi ever, and prefer to never go above 22. My 3 daily settings, depending on hp output would be 10, 15, 20 or 18. 18 or 20 PSI would give me over 400 rwhp right? Thanks, you guys are great.

Spyder420

 

For a moron like me explain this breaking the wheels loose?
sorry im a dumb *** explain please

 

Pluto = Steve Kan .... maybe you've heard of him?

Good tuner . . . well that could be Steve.

 

Making over 400RWHP is not that hard in an FD.. I think you would have trouble driving an FD with that much power.. If you pulled the exhaust & twinturbo setup you would probably loose a bit of weight.. If it is a base or r1 then the car is only going to weight ~2700lbs.. with 400RWHP that is a damn fast car.. There are a couple people running in the 500RWHP on this board.. I do not think it is that tough.. you just have to know what you are doing.. With a nice water injection system it shouldn't be that hard...

-Zach

 

a T-66 is a great street/strip turbo, its slightly smaller than the Mitsubishi T-78...a nicely ported motor and a T-66 is a great combo

 

I want to be able to beat 700+hp Supras on the highway. What type of turbo and what kind of port job would I need? 20B is not an option -- I don't have that much money.

 

Breaking the wheels loose is getting the wheels spinning without dropping the clutch. Like in the post above, if you were to floor it in 3rd gear at a low rpm, the power builds and at whatever rpm 60mph occurs at the power overcomes the grip of the rear tires and they start spinning.

 

I read the article about his car in Street Power about 4-5 years ago. He's the guy who invented the computer game Doom.

 

YES! What he said!

Although the T-78 kit is great, a pieced together T-66 kit will be less expensive and, do all or almost all that a T-78 will do.

My only want is to go to the Ball-Bearing version of the T-66.

Mike

 

Hey Mike, did you switch to a divided manifold yet?

 

Okay take a wild guess what this post is about? Okay so maybe the 7 I was looking at (everyone looking for a T-66 CYM see Ebay right now) wasn't the right one. But maybe I've found another so I'll go on searching until I have the right FD, ready to be modded to hell and back. So a T78 could do 600 rwhp with some serious boost, correct?

Second question, speaking of divided manifolds, can anyone give me a brief little overview of why they are better, what exactly they do etc. I have heard of this being done, and want to know the advantages and disadvantages, even though I don't see myself doing it anytime soon. Thanks

Spyder420
01 MR2 Spyder
FD shoppin as we speak

 

Nope. I'm kinda broke right now. I have the 1.15 a/r turbine housing already. I'll either get the manifold from XS Engineering (cast) or, from crispeed (tubular).

I doubt that either manifold will place the turbine housing exactly where it is now so, I'll also need exhaust work.

I'll probably get the rear end rebuilt before going divided. The rear is gonna be expensive and difficult to have done.

Mike

 

Didn't the Scoot RX7 make over 700+ to the wheels? I believe it had the HKS T-51R turbo?

 

Ari at RP made over 600 RWHP with the T-78 running like 28 PSI, but there's got to be some SERIOUS porting there.

The divided manifold gives you better exhaust flow to the turbo, just like headers on a non-turbo RX-7. You'll want a turbo with a divided exhaust housing to take advantage of the divided manifold.

 

I was going to make my own manifold, but I used the HKS cast because it was easier at the time. Once I'm not too busy--probably late fall--I'll probably make my own manifold. You can buy a header flange and a whole bunch of 2" tubing and u-bends from Racing Beat for about $50. Then you'll just need a turbo flange and a wastegate flange. Then all you need is some welding. I bought the parts, but they're just sitting around until I have the time to do it.

 

I think instead of asking how to make a 600hp 7 that will beat a Supra just tell us how fast you want to go.

What kind of 1/4 mile time would you be happy with. I think it would be easier that way. Anyone can make a dyno queen that shows a reading of 600hp with the right dyno tricks. Dyno pulls do not indicate real life!!!!

Time slips is what matters.....how fast do you want it.

A 450rwhp 3rd Gen is super fast for the street. Spinning your tires at 60 is dangerous and slows you down. You cant win races by spinning your tires.

Also, speed is money, i dont know how much you want to spend but i can tell you that 600hp 7 is MAJOR $$$$$$$$ but it would be a sweet ride

So, just tell us what kind of 1/4 mile you want and we should be able to help with that....you might not need 600 hp to achieve your speed goals.

Later,

 

Yup, there's a video of the dyno run somewhere out there.