I agree with Howard that on the street you reach a point were traction and common sense is the limiting factor. I drive on 11.50 et's becouse if or when i act stupid on the street there the only thing that helps me keep between the lines. They also keep me from driveing in the rain which i dont want to do anyway. If i want to travel i put on the 18's and swap hoods. I dont see how anyone with street tires and 500 h/p or more is safe to play at all! Even the new vetts cant use the power on street tires as i have found out!

 

Jason,
I put down 585rwhp at 20lbs with the water/meth inj. You don't think turning the boost up 5lbs isn't worth the extra $30k you'll spend on the 20B?

 

https://www.rx7club.com/time-slips-dyno-121/dyno-graphs-229717/page10/


scroll down a few and read the 567hp and 668ftlbs post!
also claimed on pump gas!

 

Maybe in his Supra, lol. No rotary makes more torque than power.

 

I dunno,


I'd like to see some big nitrous car dynographs.

 

To the original poster, if you are interested in road racing, be sure to check out the rules regarding AI. I know NASA whom I track with does not allow alcohol injection under any circumstances. Water on the other hand is fine and a better option imho for many reasons. Yes I have tried just alcohol and a mix before too.
The real limiting factor in your application will be controlling the heat produced by the engine for extended periods of time.

 

Maybe just maybe but he is claiming pump gas... I see the power being made but the torque is about 200 too high.

 

I dont know that I agree. I had no issues driving around y old daily driver. 700+whp Colt, which weighs 700lbs less than your FD.

I think its a matter of who's behind the wheel, and what the are capable of controlling.

 

Don't you know, Mike? Everyone's a superstar on the Internet. Don't have to prove anything.

B

 

I didnt say i wouldnt like to try it, thats why theres a right peddle. But my car on most of the streets i drive on wont hold the power with out a little drift action, but thats the fun part. I have friends with 800/900 h/p supras and they handle better than i do. Maybe i need to work on the suspension.

 

X2 Ernie.


...AI technology renders 20B upgrades obsolete for 99% of the applications now. Like I said, for a significant performance advantage ONLY with respect to what you can run on straight PUMP maybe. But the 13B can delivery everything I'd ask of it at a fraction of the cost and weight/size at 550RWHP. Anything beyond ~550rwhp is useless on the street or race track...

 

Can't you solve this problem by using something like the Apexi AVCR for gear based boost control?
http://boostcontrollers.wordpress.co...st-controller/
For example, program the AVCR like this: 1st gear = 15lbs boost, 2nd gear = 18 lbs, 3rd = 22lbs, 4th = 25, 5th = 28???

Don't you just tweak the boost setting per gear so that the tires don't break free?

 

My point exactly.
It's all about the combination. Anyone who can claim anything above 500hp is not needed does not have the entire combination figured out. Jason made a suggestion that is part of the combination of enjoying high horsepower on the street.
BTW. I have no problems putting down 40psi in 1st gear on the street because I've done what it takes to balance the combination and enjoy a 700hp street car on the street. Some build dyno queens. The rest buid the car for the intended use it was made for.

 

I thought that the comment about no more than 500 hp being necessary was made in the context of having a good set-up for road racing. If that is the case, if you have a good track set-up and keep adding power, then you'll have a great 4th gear, but you'll just smoke the tires in 3rd. WIth a good street/track set-up, around 575whp, Second and third gear become useless. My solution to this is to keep the good good track set-up, keep the monster 4th gear that'll pin you to the seat from 80-140, and just limit boost in 2nd and 3rd.

Anyhow, I never got the impression that the OP had the same intended use that your car was made for. He never said he was looking for a 1.3 60' time.

My suggestion of gear based boost control should be evaluated in the context of the OPs stated desire to build a daily driver that gets tracked now and then.

 

How about 300 hp in 1st, 400 in 2nd, 500 in 3rd and 4th or whatever suits your application. The power can be varied by rpm and boost levels with the right setup.
BTW. The 40psi in 1st gear I was talking about is a 100% street car and will never see a track in it's lifetime.

 

So no interest in the link I posted? I have questioned the torque numbers but this guy swears he made it. I have NEVER scene or heard of anything close but I never put up the BS flag because everything is possible, I guess. Take a look yourself.

 

Some dynos are known for doing that type of stuff. Sometimes common sence play a small part in the world we live in.

 

Werd! I totally misread your other post and thought you were saying something along the lines of no need to limit boost per gear for any use. I misread **** too often. My bad!

So, do you wanna keep this interesting and spec a turbo that would best suit the OP's intended use?

 

Its just a lot less stress on the motor running less boost and this is just on a little street port that idles well and fun to drive on the street. To get the same out of the 13B it takes full bridge/ large turbo which isnt the most ideal daily driver as you know

Typical 20B setup shouldnt run more than about $15-$20k.

If I was to do it over again I would have just gone 20B instead of dumping almost the same amount of money into my 13B's. If you compare the cost of building both there isnt that much of a price difference, depending on the bells and whistles you add to the 20B.

 

Really depends on what your looking for. I have a shop car that makes 620 RWHP on a full bridge/large turbo thats on pump gas and Meth, but you couldnt pay me to drive that on a daily basis as my ears bleed from the damn loud bridge. On the other hand the 20B making similar numbers, idles like a Lexus and sounds like an Indy car under WOT.

If you are building an RX-7 for a drag car then yea its a little cheaper to do the 13B.

 

Now make that shop car a half-bridge, quiet it down a bit, and 550 RWHP grocery-getter and you gotta winner...lemme know where to sign.

That will be very fast in a straight line...but with a GT40R, she'll have a powerband for the road courses to boot*

 

what would you run to quiet it down?
i'm assuming its going to be catless

 

Bridgeport isn't loud. Just idles like she's got a cam!

 

Why bother modifying ANY vehicle if you're worried about blowing it up?
I guess we're all wasting our time throwing all this cash "just to prove a point"...
Sure, supplemental injection adds a safety margin, so I guess it all comes down to how big your ***** are...?

I remember people who used to bitch about me whining about what can and cannot be done...
Funny how it sounds with the shoe on the other foot.


-Ted

 

Viper GTSR: Bridgeport/GT40R is good enough.

Dee E.