470rwhp !!!
#51
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Hi, yeah I do hold it constant from 5500rpm to 8+K @ load above 180kpa
I should try to increase it a bit above 7.5K to lift up the drop off in torque, may squeeze a couple of 100rpm range out of it?
I was a bit reluctant to try this due to the pump gas, but may try it. I noticed what you are saying in the PFC maps, and have used that principle on other cars I have tuned.
I am just getting soft in my old age
I should try to increase it a bit above 7.5K to lift up the drop off in torque, may squeeze a couple of 100rpm range out of it?
I was a bit reluctant to try this due to the pump gas, but may try it. I noticed what you are saying in the PFC maps, and have used that principle on other cars I have tuned.
I am just getting soft in my old age
#53
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i believe its a technically correct term for the shimming of the front oil thing mod and replacing the factory E Shaft Oil jets with higher flowing ones from a weber carb
#54
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Originally posted by HWO
i believe its a technically correct term for the shimming of the front oil thing mod and replacing the factory E Shaft Oil jets with higher flowing ones from a weber carb
i believe its a technically correct term for the shimming of the front oil thing mod and replacing the factory E Shaft Oil jets with higher flowing ones from a weber carb
#55
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
Originally posted by RICE RACING
Yes that is the mod, provide constant oil cooling the rotors under all conditions, helps prevent detonation & thermal overload of the rotor/seals/springs hence reducing wear & premature heat related failures.
Yes that is the mod, provide constant oil cooling the rotors under all conditions, helps prevent detonation & thermal overload of the rotor/seals/springs hence reducing wear & premature heat related failures.
Thanks..
#56
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I did some analysis of my data log of my dyno run and it revealed some interesting facts & figures.
When compared to an equivalent run (time, start conditions "temp/pressure") there are quite a few big differences between road power and dyno power.
peak boost (happens at peak torque)
on road 7200 to 7400 rpm
on dyno 6700 to 6900 rpm
Intercooler efficiecy
on road 92%
on dyno 79.5%
Just based on the reduced IC efficiency there is another 20+bhp not seen on the dyno, the peak torque difference is interesting as the time spend on the ramp rate on the dyno matches 100% the time it takes to pull from 2.5k to 8k, I believe the difference here is to do with the increased eff of the IC and also I use a "quasi" ram duct to my air filter on the inlet to the turbo.
When compared to an equivalent run (time, start conditions "temp/pressure") there are quite a few big differences between road power and dyno power.
peak boost (happens at peak torque)
on road 7200 to 7400 rpm
on dyno 6700 to 6900 rpm
Intercooler efficiecy
on road 92%
on dyno 79.5%
Just based on the reduced IC efficiency there is another 20+bhp not seen on the dyno, the peak torque difference is interesting as the time spend on the ramp rate on the dyno matches 100% the time it takes to pull from 2.5k to 8k, I believe the difference here is to do with the increased eff of the IC and also I use a "quasi" ram duct to my air filter on the inlet to the turbo.
#57
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more power
Originally posted by RICE RACING
Yes that is the mod, provide constant oil cooling the rotors under all conditions, helps prevent detonation & thermal overload of the rotor/seals/springs hence reducing wear & premature heat related failures.
Yes that is the mod, provide constant oil cooling the rotors under all conditions, helps prevent detonation & thermal overload of the rotor/seals/springs hence reducing wear & premature heat related failures.
Normally also allows you to run a bit more advance before detonation so helps with power.
Chris
#58
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What size jets should be used , would I have to tap new threads and secure the jets with LOCTITE ????, also I plan to use the replasement plug for ther thermal pillet sold by MAZDATRIX and ATKINS , ........ Good Idea ???.
Last edited by Marcel Burkett; 07-01-02 at 09:38 AM.
#59
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Would replacing the factory E-shaft oils jets with higher flowing ones and also replacing the thermal pellet, inject too much oil into the combustion chamber? - Tommy
#60
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
Originally posted by Single7
Would replacing the factory E-shaft oils jets with higher flowing ones and also replacing the thermal pellet, inject too much oil into the combustion chamber? - Tommy
Would replacing the factory E-shaft oils jets with higher flowing ones and also replacing the thermal pellet, inject too much oil into the combustion chamber? - Tommy
so back to my unanswered question: What size jets do you use? and is it a direct replacement or do you have to mod somthing to make them fit...?
Last edited by Dragon; 07-01-02 at 04:39 PM.
#61
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Thread Starter
Dragon, I use #200 weber air jets in my road car....
Depends on the engine, and the oil pressure you are running etc, allso I tend to use a bit smaller jet because I use water injection, which takes out alot of the heat I am trying to reduce with the increased oil supply to the rotors.
These jets are a simple press fit into the bottom of the "screw" that goes into the crank for each rotor, just remove the ball & spring and install the jet in the bottom of the nut and screw back into the crank.
Depends on the engine, and the oil pressure you are running etc, allso I tend to use a bit smaller jet because I use water injection, which takes out alot of the heat I am trying to reduce with the increased oil supply to the rotors.
These jets are a simple press fit into the bottom of the "screw" that goes into the crank for each rotor, just remove the ball & spring and install the jet in the bottom of the nut and screw back into the crank.
#62
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HEY DRAGON , try to relax a bit ,we were speaking about the thermal pillet located in the front end of the e shaft (which is also held in place by the main front pulley bolt) , not oil metering pump!!!!!!!!.
#63
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Thread Starter
Gordon, the pellet in the front of the crank is a device that Mazda installed to cut of oil flow through the rotors (main function) to improve cold start fuel consumption of the rotary, once the oil is hot the pellet opens and shuts of the hole in the end of the crank wich lets most of the oil out in this condition.
What I do is on the std pellet cut of the section with the spring attached and throw it! a small amount of gringing will be required to tidy it up also you remove the little dick that pops out when hot that opens the pellet (do this by putting it in hot water, then get pliers and rip it out), then you simply install a spacer which is the same length as the "dick" wich fits between the front nut and the crank (inside it) this keeps the pellet permanently open hence closing of the oil bypass in the front of the crank......very easy modification.
Not worth the grief of a failure just to save a little bit of fuel when the oil is cold !!!, any thermal pellets in the oiling system I make a point of removing them or making them open all the time, On fist gen oil coolers there is a similar pellet which bypasses to cooler when the oil is cold, hae known these to fail as well.
NOTE do not remove the pellet all together as I have know of people doing this! you simply must make it open all the time hence blocking of the oil bypass.
regards
Pete
What I do is on the std pellet cut of the section with the spring attached and throw it! a small amount of gringing will be required to tidy it up also you remove the little dick that pops out when hot that opens the pellet (do this by putting it in hot water, then get pliers and rip it out), then you simply install a spacer which is the same length as the "dick" wich fits between the front nut and the crank (inside it) this keeps the pellet permanently open hence closing of the oil bypass in the front of the crank......very easy modification.
Not worth the grief of a failure just to save a little bit of fuel when the oil is cold !!!, any thermal pellets in the oiling system I make a point of removing them or making them open all the time, On fist gen oil coolers there is a similar pellet which bypasses to cooler when the oil is cold, hae known these to fail as well.
NOTE do not remove the pellet all together as I have know of people doing this! you simply must make it open all the time hence blocking of the oil bypass.
regards
Pete
#64
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
Originally posted by Marcel Burkett
HEY DRAGON , try to relax a bit ,we were speaking about the thermal pillet located in the front end of the e shaft (which is also held in place by the main front pulley bolt) , not oil metering pump!!!!!!!!.
HEY DRAGON , try to relax a bit ,we were speaking about the thermal pillet located in the front end of the e shaft (which is also held in place by the main front pulley bolt) , not oil metering pump!!!!!!!!.
and Rice Racing, thanks for the info..
#65
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
Originally posted by RICE RACING
Dragon, I use #200 weber air jets in my road car....
Depends on the engine, and the oil pressure you are running etc, allso I tend to use a bit smaller jet because I use water injection, which takes out alot of the heat I am trying to reduce with the increased oil supply to the rotors.
These jets are a simple press fit into the bottom of the "screw" that goes into the crank for each rotor, just remove the ball & spring and install the jet in the bottom of the nut and screw back into the crank.
Dragon, I use #200 weber air jets in my road car....
Depends on the engine, and the oil pressure you are running etc, allso I tend to use a bit smaller jet because I use water injection, which takes out alot of the heat I am trying to reduce with the increased oil supply to the rotors.
These jets are a simple press fit into the bottom of the "screw" that goes into the crank for each rotor, just remove the ball & spring and install the jet in the bottom of the nut and screw back into the crank.
#69
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Hi Dragon,
Sorry about my question, I was getting the two things mixed up - too many late nights at work and too much coffee. But mazdacomp does sell smaller oil jets for the e-shaft (I think something like $4-6 a piece - it's been a while since I bought them) and I know Atkin and Mazdatrix sells the e-shaft thermal pellet (around $15 bucks). So these modifications only allow oil to be "released" earlier for the bearings during cold startups? Still trying to learn, so please bare with me .
Sorry about my question, I was getting the two things mixed up - too many late nights at work and too much coffee. But mazdacomp does sell smaller oil jets for the e-shaft (I think something like $4-6 a piece - it's been a while since I bought them) and I know Atkin and Mazdatrix sells the e-shaft thermal pellet (around $15 bucks). So these modifications only allow oil to be "released" earlier for the bearings during cold startups? Still trying to learn, so please bare with me .
#70
Old [Sch|F]ool
The thermal pellet eliminator reverts the E-shaft to '85-earlier oiling - full flow to the rotors all the time, hot or cold. Makes it warm up slower but it's one less thing to go wrong (and if something CAN go wrong, then sooner or later it WILL)
When you modify the oil sprayers with the Weber jets, you're also eliminating a small check valve. The end result is actually more oil sprayed into the cavities in the rotor. The oil sprayed in there is a very large chucnk (30-40%) of the engine's cooling system, since there is no way to cool the rotors with coolant - they never come into contact with the coolant-filled housings the way that pistons transfer heat away through the cylinder walls.
When you modify the oil sprayers with the Weber jets, you're also eliminating a small check valve. The end result is actually more oil sprayed into the cavities in the rotor. The oil sprayed in there is a very large chucnk (30-40%) of the engine's cooling system, since there is no way to cool the rotors with coolant - they never come into contact with the coolant-filled housings the way that pistons transfer heat away through the cylinder walls.
#71
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
Originally posted by Single7
Hi Dragon,
Sorry about my question, I was getting the two things mixed up - too many late nights at work and too much coffee. But mazdacomp does sell smaller oil jets for the e-shaft (I think something like $4-6 a piece - it's been a while since I bought them) and I know Atkin and Mazdatrix sells the e-shaft thermal pellet (around $15 bucks). So these modifications only allow oil to be "released" earlier for the bearings during cold startups? Still trying to learn, so please bare with me .
Hi Dragon,
Sorry about my question, I was getting the two things mixed up - too many late nights at work and too much coffee. But mazdacomp does sell smaller oil jets for the e-shaft (I think something like $4-6 a piece - it's been a while since I bought them) and I know Atkin and Mazdatrix sells the e-shaft thermal pellet (around $15 bucks). So these modifications only allow oil to be "released" earlier for the bearings during cold startups? Still trying to learn, so please bare with me .
#73
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Hey rice , some info on race clearancing of the rotors and for the WEBER jet mod. would a #250- 300 work?. Also , I know you say to go as wide as possible with the exhaust port by removing the sleeve , but what if I keep the sleeve in place but open up the inside (combustion chamber) of the port and funnel it out to the manifold,how well do you think this would this would work with a 1.15a/r housing (T66) , 2" separated runners (exh. manifold) , 3.5" down pipe till cat. location (no cat.) , 3" from there back with a free flow TANABE G POWER MEDALION exh. barrel?.
#74
Senior Member
I use #200 weber air jets in my road car....
Gentlemen,
Pardon my ignorance here, but wouldn't using a larger jet size allow more oil to flow to the rotors? Am I missing something? I'm not ME's (mechanical engineers) like some of you here, I'm just an IE (industrial, not "imaginary). I look for the most efficient way
#75
Senior Member
Depends on the engine, and the oil pressure you are running etc, allso I tend to use a bit smaller jet because I use water injection, which takes out alot of the heat I am trying to reduce with the increased oil supply to the rotors.
Sorry, I forgot include this in the above quote