Hey guys, anyone know where I can buy a 4 or 5 bar map sensor?

Also, anyone know the option, scale and offset settings?

I'll be turning my boost up to 30+ lbs of boost this winter so I need it.

 

Don't be a wuss, get the 5 bar sensor and see how much you can make.
http://www.suprastore.com/aemstanalenm.html

You're going to run out of resolution real quick on the PFC though.

 

I got mine from Ari at rx7.com

Anthony

 

That's fine. I'll get the 5 bar but......... I need to know what option, scale and offset settings I need.... and what wires go where?

not worried about the pfc...... big power has already been made with the pfc.

 

a MAP sensor is a MAP sensor.

+5V
signal wire
GND

 

Well, not sure if the new 5 bar sensor has the wires labeled???

 

it should come with a diagram...I know the 3 bar is labeled, A - B - C

 

Don't get a 5-bar map...they're joking. I seriously doubt you're going make it over 43.5 psi to need a 5-bar.

It's going to be a bear to tune with a 4-bar sensor...let alone a 5. There just isn't enough resolution in the PFC.

 

I'm not........

 

Yeah I know, that's how my 3 car is labeled.....

 

A 5 bar evenly divided over the PFC's 20 pressure points would give you this kind of resolution in the low end.

P01 -29.9 inHg
P02 -22.2 inHg
P03 -14.4 inHg
P04 -6.7 inHg
P05 0.5 psi
P06 4.4 psi
=========
P20 57.8 psi

Idle and cruise could be a handful. Full throttle might be manageable though. Hard to tell.

Just letting you know what you're getting into. Driveability will probably suffer...but it sounds like power is the only thing on your mind right now so have at it. <shrug>

 

Steve Kan is tuning my car, he knows what my intentions are see's no problem.

 

As long as you get the wires hooked up right, I recommend that you do the scale and offset calibration yourself. It is pretty easy if you have another pressure gauge and something to provide controllable pressures in the correct range. I wouldn't trust anyone else's numbers, or assume that the variation from car to car (PFC to PFC, MAP sensor to MAP sensor) is low enough to have one good set of numbers anyway.

I used my AVC-R and a PowerBleeder (inexpensive pressure brake bleeder device) to calibrate my 3-bar sensor, but you'll need something else to do the 5-bar.

Also, you can space the 20 P points of the PFC out however you want. For instance, you don't have to waste cells on extreme vacuum, and you can probably space things out where you find that your current maps are pretty linear.

-Max

 

Hahahaha, some of you guys make me laugh about the 4-5bar map sensor having no resolution with the PFC, AEM's ECU's maps are a 20X17 which is actually LESS resolution than the PFC(PFC is 20X20). I don't see any of the high HP Supras, DSM's, or Hondas, etc. running WAY more boost with 4-5bar map sensors complaining about it because it's not an issue, you can adjust the scale like maxcooper stated and make it more refined on the boost side. Some of you guys like to talk so much about resolution w/o even checking to see other ECU's running WAY more boost and less resolution than the PFC. BTW, there are cars in Japan running with 4-5 bar map sensors with PFC's making HUGE HP #'s with no issues. I've said this time and time again, it's all in the tuning.

 

And a high horsepower rotary is just like the engines in Supras and Skylines and only needs good enough to be reliable right?
Mircotechs get by fine with even less resolution, but I'd take the extra cells from an E11 or Motec anyday.

 

Don't worry about adjusting the P-row until I get there. I'll have to remap everything anyways to fit your needs. Just get the map sensor and calibrate it as close to the actual value as possible so that your car will drive with the new map sensor. I'll do the rest.

 

He's asking if it will work with no problems and it will! I spoke to JD(Boostn7) who tunes my personal car, Waynespeed(www.waynespeed.com), Ralph from Ground Zero, and as you can see even Steve Kan agrees, as well as a few other tuners I have asked out there who deal with rotaries, knowing tuning is knowing tuning bottom line, it will work. I myself will be upgrading to a 4bar map sensor soon, the only difference between tuning a piston engine and a rotary is knowing the difference in fuel and ignition requirements.

 

I've got to get there early to watch

no RA seals this time too.

 

I think the 3.5BAR AEM sensor would suit you more appropriately.

Good for ~36PSI. Your motor or ***** will run out well before then

 

My plans for this car will eventually go past 36psi

 

**** man.. the roids ate them off years ago!!!!!!

 

Steve,
Eric asked me to help him set up his 5 bar. I am not certain what you mean by "calibrate it as close to the actual value", by actual value do you mean scale?

I believe I can set up his p rows to the same values he has now using the 5 bar. I also believe I can closely estimate the scale based on a PIMV reading from the 5 bar at atmosphere. I assume the 5 bar PIMV at atmosphere will be 0.85 - 1.1 volts.

We will verify this with a gauge and compressed tank of air for the boost areas of the map.


pm me with any comments

thanks

 

Just calibrate it so that the offset/scale make sense to the actual value instead of being off by a few psi etc....

Don't adjust the P-row since this will affect the overall fuel at that particular boost level. This goes true for AEM also. for example, lets say that P17 is set for 20psi, if you set P17 to 30psi, the amount of fuel deliver to those cells will only support 20psi (not 30psi). I can deal with it later when I tune his car.

 

will do....was going to set the p row values to the same psi as you had on the old map via scale/offset...which is the same as what you are describing

 

Oh.....i see what you're saying (i guess I mis-understood you). AEM automatically scale the boost range based on the sensor you install. PFC is done individually so I can actually set whatever I want in any row/column and it doesn't matter what sensor I use. The way Eric's car is setup, I only set the range to run up to 26psi of boost (1.8kg/cm^2) so as long as the map sensor is calibrated to read the actual value correctly, the car will run and boost fine with the current map he has.