What did you do to your FB today?
#6729
Junior Member
1993 rx7
On our red/black '93 RX7: My son and I removed the stock airbox, disassembled it, and gave it a good bath in hot, soapy water. There were remnants of leaves, grass, straw and small debris like that on one side of the mesh inside the airbox. It did its job, as none of that debris was on the inside of the airbox leading to the stock plumbing for the twin turbos. I may not be using the right lingo, but I do know what we saw. We cleaned the airbox and reinstalled it on the car. The internals did there job of keeping any foreign object out of the air path to the turbos and the engine. Good design that works. Respectfully, John J. Garvey
#6732
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
I worked on figuring out the harness etc for my 13brew swap...
anybody know if I need the factory ecu anymore... my setup came with the Haltech Sprint RE... and every plug ont he passenger side on engine bay side suits the old gslse engine and not anything I need for the rew....
is there anything in that loom that runs anything in dash? does it need to complete a circuit seeing as it runs from drivers side and clips to the wires from teh ecu out to bay on p/s???
I did see some pics on a shops site where they didnt have the factory ecu anymore but the aftermarket was all mounting in the footwell area....
I also got my material to cover my sunroof as it is brown and Im changing the interior to black and never got the insert when I got the black roof lining...
anybody know if I need the factory ecu anymore... my setup came with the Haltech Sprint RE... and every plug ont he passenger side on engine bay side suits the old gslse engine and not anything I need for the rew....
is there anything in that loom that runs anything in dash? does it need to complete a circuit seeing as it runs from drivers side and clips to the wires from teh ecu out to bay on p/s???
I did see some pics on a shops site where they didnt have the factory ecu anymore but the aftermarket was all mounting in the footwell area....
I also got my material to cover my sunroof as it is brown and Im changing the interior to black and never got the insert when I got the black roof lining...
#6734
I worked on figuring out the harness etc for my 13brew swap...
anybody know if I need the factory ecu anymore... my setup came with the Haltech Sprint RE... and every plug ont he passenger side on engine bay side suits the old gslse engine and not anything I need for the rew....
is there anything in that loom that runs anything in dash? does it need to complete a circuit seeing as it runs from drivers side and clips to the wires from teh ecu out to bay on p/s???
I did see some pics on a shops site where they didnt have the factory ecu anymore but the aftermarket was all mounting in the footwell area....
I also got my material to cover my sunroof as it is brown and Im changing the interior to black and never got the insert when I got the black roof lining...
anybody know if I need the factory ecu anymore... my setup came with the Haltech Sprint RE... and every plug ont he passenger side on engine bay side suits the old gslse engine and not anything I need for the rew....
is there anything in that loom that runs anything in dash? does it need to complete a circuit seeing as it runs from drivers side and clips to the wires from teh ecu out to bay on p/s???
I did see some pics on a shops site where they didnt have the factory ecu anymore but the aftermarket was all mounting in the footwell area....
I also got my material to cover my sunroof as it is brown and Im changing the interior to black and never got the insert when I got the black roof lining...
Nice fabric, too, BTW!
#6737
edit: just realized I need to edit my signature, since I don't own the '90 any more...
Last edited by Frankenrex; 04-18-18 at 02:17 AM. Reason: added a comment
#6738
Old [Sch|F]ool
???
The factory has it on the front. They specifically used a Watts because they COULD put it on the front. For clearance reasons, if they used a Panhard on the rear, they would have needed to make the car a couple inches longer.
Garage journal is here: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/fo.../136340/page1/
The factory has it on the front. They specifically used a Watts because they COULD put it on the front. For clearance reasons, if they used a Panhard on the rear, they would have needed to make the car a couple inches longer.
Garage journal is here: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/fo.../136340/page1/
#6739
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Lately I have been collecting parts for the work to be done later this summer. Still waiting for an order from Rockauto for all the bearings for the diff rebuild.
I have a 82 GS and I managed to find a 84-85 "Big Axle" rear end from a GSL. I picked up calipers off of a forum member and have been collecting all the other parts for the rebuild.
I will be going with either a Tomei or KAAZ 1.5 way LSD.
Will be using all new bearings, seals etc. Had everything sand blasted.
Also got a S4 alternator. My alternator is a bit tired and this is a bolt in upgrade to a 70A unit. The positive "post" is even removable so it will look like a FB unit.
I also managed to find a guy locally selling brand new OEM brake backing plates for this exact axle. Mine did not come with any, just the axle retainers. I got both backing plates/dust shields for around $35 (:
Also, does anyone know which bolts I need to buy for the ring gear? I see two different part numbers that have to do with a 0.1mm difference in shank diameter....
Last edited by tommyeflight89; 04-18-18 at 05:59 PM.
#6741
Can Post Only in New Member Section
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 2
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Header on GSL-SE
Didnt work on today, but I did some stuff sunday.
I had a coolant leak between the water pump housing and the front plate, so I pulled it all off. I went ahead a replaced the pump while all tore apart. I then replaced the coolant level sensor since the wire broke off and it was leaking. Also sand blasted the housing and painted it and the pump.
Painted the fan, cleaned the aluminum spacer up real nice, painted the center of the alternator to match.
Still need to run some new air intake ducting, build a heat shield for the filter, and build a new coolant catch can and relocate it.
I had a coolant leak between the water pump housing and the front plate, so I pulled it all off. I went ahead a replaced the pump while all tore apart. I then replaced the coolant level sensor since the wire broke off and it was leaking. Also sand blasted the housing and painted it and the pump.
Painted the fan, cleaned the aluminum spacer up real nice, painted the center of the alternator to match.
Still need to run some new air intake ducting, build a heat shield for the filter, and build a new coolant catch can and relocate it.
#6742
???
The factory has it on the front. They specifically used a Watts because they COULD put it on the front. For clearance reasons, if they used a Panhard on the rear, they would have needed to make the car a couple inches longer.
Garage journal is here: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/fo.../136340/page1/
The factory has it on the front. They specifically used a Watts because they COULD put it on the front. For clearance reasons, if they used a Panhard on the rear, they would have needed to make the car a couple inches longer.
Garage journal is here: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/fo.../136340/page1/
#6743
Old [Sch|F]ool
Put my engine back together and put it back in the car. New Atkins apex seals, new Mazda corner seals and FD springs, peejay-resurfaced rotor housings, updated porting to incorporate some stuff I have learned since freaking 2012 which was the last time I built an engine... which was this one. Oh and replaced the oil pump chain because the old one was worn out, something I'd never seen happen before.
#6744
Damn, it did start!
Epoxy mastic.
Paint!
Paint!
#6745
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
Installed a new driveshaft after the old one's squealing turned into grinding. Ordered the Powertrain Industries replacement (same p/n as Mazdatrix) for $220 shipped to my door. Took it on a test drive and had a crazy whirring noise coming from the transmission side. I was pissed that the part arrived defective but it turned out the larger ujoint/yoke was just tapping on the exhaust heat shield every rotation. A little bending with a breaker bar fixed that and its all good now!
#6746
Senior Member
I am currently doing a GSL-SE rear end swap on my 83 GS. Im having a hard time getting this brake line off. I feel like imma break it if I apply a lot of pressure. Do any of you guys have any tips? I have already sprayed it with PB blaster and nothing. I was thinking of heating it up a little bit with a torch to see if that will break it loose. (Using Peejay's pic as reference)
#6748
Nuclear Powered Doritos
iTrader: (3)
I am currently doing a GSL-SE rear end swap on my 83 GS. Im having a hard time getting this brake line off. I feel like imma break it if I apply a lot of pressure. Do any of you guys have any tips? I have already sprayed it with PB blaster and nothing. I was thinking of heating it up a little bit with a torch to see if that will break it loose. (Using Peejay's pic as reference)
Step 1: Pour ATF on threads
Step 2: Use a torch to heat up threads. If the ATF lights on fire that's a bonus. Just be careful with open flames :-)
Step 3: Use either a line wrench, or a box ended wrench (to use a box ended one, you'll probably have to destroy the line, but that's fine if you have a new one) on the nut.
Step 4: Instead of using constant pressure to break the nut loose, bump the wrench repeatedly (think "human impact wrench") counterclockwise. An impact will usually loosen corroded hardware without breaking it. If you use constant pressure you're much more likely to round off the nut.
Let us know if it works.
#6749
Old [Sch|F]ool
Drove it for a few miles after replacing every bearing in the rearend (including axle bearings) as well as the ring and pinion after fragging the 9".
I destroyed a Ford 9" in a few hundred miles with a naturally aspirated 13B. That still sounds so wrong to me.
Anyway, now I have a ultra-light, REM polished set of 4.44 gears in my nine, and new Timken bearings everywhere...
I destroyed a Ford 9" in a few hundred miles with a naturally aspirated 13B. That still sounds so wrong to me.
Anyway, now I have a ultra-light, REM polished set of 4.44 gears in my nine, and new Timken bearings everywhere...
#6750
I am currently doing a GSL-SE rear end swap on my 83 GS. Im having a hard time getting this brake line off. I feel like imma break it if I apply a lot of pressure. Do any of you guys have any tips? I have already sprayed it with PB blaster and nothing. I was thinking of heating it up a little bit with a torch to see if that will break it loose. (Using Peejay's pic as reference)