question regarding bushings
#1
question regarding bushings
if I have installed new ohlins coilovers and new toelinks trailing arms and new superpro diff bushing only
do I still need to buy the full standard superpro bushing kit ? if so will any be left over ? or the above is separate from the standard kit
should I buy individually ?
do I still need to buy the full standard superpro bushing kit ? if so will any be left over ? or the above is separate from the standard kit
should I buy individually ?
#2
It Just Feels Right
iTrader: (11)
The wiseass answer is that you only need to replace the ones that need replacing.
I checked all of mine (@ 65k miles) including the pillows (but not the toe links) and found only good bushings were the trailing arms. If the car is primarily a street car, you may want to look at stock bushes or mazda comps. Poly is stiff and squeeky. Of course that's a subjective thing. I have poly and don't mind it (stiff and squeeky) as that's me and it's mostly a track car.
I checked all of mine (@ 65k miles) including the pillows (but not the toe links) and found only good bushings were the trailing arms. If the car is primarily a street car, you may want to look at stock bushes or mazda comps. Poly is stiff and squeeky. Of course that's a subjective thing. I have poly and don't mind it (stiff and squeeky) as that's me and it's mostly a track car.
#3
if I have installed new ohlins coilovers and new toelinks trailing arms and new superpro diff bushing only
do I still need to buy the full standard superpro bushing kit ? if so will any be left over ? or the above is separate from the standard kit
should I buy individually ?
do I still need to buy the full standard superpro bushing kit ? if so will any be left over ? or the above is separate from the standard kit
should I buy individually ?
Check out the diagram here, post #4 https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-w...all-em-833219/
After that what will remain is your stock Lower Control Arm bushing....if its fine just leave it or replace with new stock one or MazdaComp...you can buy it at Mazdatrix if you dont have Mazdacomp membership. Don't put a poly in the LCA as apparently its might cause binding issues as its not mulitaxial like the Mazda ones.
And then finally...you have the 3 pillowballs per side...which you can get from Mazda or J-Auto...
So if you are really into replacing all this, yes you can buy the rear upper control arm bushings individually from SuperPro...because if you buy the kit you will get the trailing arm and toe link poly bushings which you don't need as you said you got those new
Last edited by Spalato; 04-25-17 at 06:36 PM.
#5
It Just Feels Right
iTrader: (11)
The rear upper inner bushing is the shock mount bushing. The outer bushing is a pillow.
The other pillows in my I-arm were complete crap. If you're looking to replace any bush/pillow, suggest you give them a good wiggle as well as any others that you may have access to when you have it apart
The other pillows in my I-arm were complete crap. If you're looking to replace any bush/pillow, suggest you give them a good wiggle as well as any others that you may have access to when you have it apart
#6
i have already in stalled J-auto pillow*6 and new J-auto trailing arm and toe links
according to the diagram those are what i need
the ones i circle in the picture is the ones im saying
i have already ordered the OME lower control arm bushing which the superpro kit dont provide
im just deciding on either going superpro for the rest or go OEM from ray
according to the diagram those are what i need
the ones i circle in the picture is the ones im saying
i have already ordered the OME lower control arm bushing which the superpro kit dont provide
im just deciding on either going superpro for the rest or go OEM from ray
Last edited by kensin; 04-28-17 at 03:34 AM.
#7
A little thread highjack: How do i check driveline bushings?
I am following Howard Colemans advice to change my diff and trailing bushings to poly, while having the rest as rubber. But i do experience some jerking when im going on/off throttle. Also, there is a lot of shifter movement when driving. I changed the diff bushings last year, and was planning to do the trailing ones this year. But i may need to do the engine mounts as well to stopp the jerking?
I am following Howard Colemans advice to change my diff and trailing bushings to poly, while having the rest as rubber. But i do experience some jerking when im going on/off throttle. Also, there is a lot of shifter movement when driving. I changed the diff bushings last year, and was planning to do the trailing ones this year. But i may need to do the engine mounts as well to stopp the jerking?
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#8
It Just Feels Right
iTrader: (11)
i have already in stalled J-auto pillow*6 and new J-auto trailing arm and toe links
according to the diagram those are what i need
i have already ordered the OME lower control arm bushing which the superpro kit dont provide
im just deciding on either going superpro for the rest or go OEM from ray
according to the diagram those are what i need
i have already ordered the OME lower control arm bushing which the superpro kit dont provide
im just deciding on either going superpro for the rest or go OEM from ray
I have the Superpros, and IMO (and with no basis for judgement), I doubt there's much difference with the Mazda comps which i believe are more $s. The overall ride is a lot stiffer, but not sure that's attributed to the Superpros or the fact that I replaced my entire orginal suspension (to include springs). If you are worried about a jarring ride, you may want to go with OEM.
And, Howard's thread on suspension setups is a really good writeup on the subject...
https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-w...-setup-723617/
#9
It Just Feels Right
iTrader: (11)
I am following Howard Colemans advice to change my diff and trailing bushings to poly, while having the rest as rubber. But i do experience some jerking when im going on/off throttle. Also, there is a lot of shifter movement when driving. I changed the diff bushings last year, and was planning to do the trailing ones this year. But i may need to do the engine mounts as well to stopp the jerking?
You may want to try Banzai's transmisison brace. I installed one prior to any suspension upgrades and found that really helped tighten my shifting. It's also a lot easier install than motor mounts (unless you need to drop the cross member for another reason (i.e. oil pan).
Saying this from experience but overall as a suspension neophyte