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The high idle rev is not initiated if the coolant temp is below 62 degrees or so otherwise the idle should be based on the fast idle cam (close to 1700 rpm). Either that aspect is not set properly or the idle set screw is not set properly or the timing is not set properly or the throttle linkage is too tight or a small vacuum leak is at hand. Normally, when people rebuild their engines they set the idle a bit higher than normal to allow break in.
Okay, that makes sense regarding the accelerated warmup.
I am asking regarding this initial break-in idle, which i'm not able to achieve as i normally would.
I have had the car a while and previously could bring idle up to 1500 or so using only the idle adjust screw on the top center of the throttle body.
Maybe that's a false memory, but i really think it happily did before. at the moment backing that one all the way out does nothing to raise idle.
i had to end up using the the idle set screw with the locknut to bring it up to the 1200 rpms even.
throttle linkage has a little slack. i'll double check timing )with my light )and my TPS today at lunch time and give it little compressed air to listen for vac leaks.
The idle cannot be correctly set w/the rpm above 1100 or so as the timing advances a bit thus playing w/the TPS does not help. Also, the initial set coupler is to be jumpered when adjusting the idle. The idle adjust screw on top of the dynamic chamber is usually just for minor adjustments and should not lead to a sizable change in either direction.