GTUser

All I can say these don't look like the twin rotors that Brian posted several pages back. I think you have some work to do to get them to looking like those he posted in his sig. Its gone now but those were some nice rotors! It is amazing how simple the rotary engine is and how much power it can produce. I am also amazed at the genius it took to design the rotors and housings to seal as they do to create the combustion chamber, the guy was an artist not an engineer.

Did you take it apart for some specific repairs or just to inspect it? Are you going to replace the apex seals? You should look into some of the new seals that RotorSports Racing is using and there were some covered in the last RX Tuner issue that they claim are almost indestructable. I'll bring the article to the next drive-in or up to VIR on 10/03 if you are going to be at either. The info on the new seals is pretty interesting. There is a guy that has PM'd me about the template for the cargo cover so that he can get some measurements for a speaker box he is building for the cargo area. Could I get you to bring the cover the next time we get together?

riceman1998

iTrader: (1)

I like Bert's suggestion as I could use of buying some parts locally instead over the net. From my part shopping experiences so far at local store in Cary and Raleigh, it is difficult to buy parts or components for my car and no one carry bolt on parts for RX7 in "any" of the stores I have visted (except standard nuts and bolts) :-( I've end up getting what I need online and ship them to my house. I guess it end up to be cheaper anyway since I don't have to special order them and await for it.

If anyone knows some local store carries FD parts, please do share as I need it right now plus for a odd reason, I prefer to touch and see the product I want to buy before paying for it.

Andy

riceman1998

iTrader: (1)

If you are looking for Iridiums spark plugs, you can get some at:
http://www.rx7store.net/index.asp?Pa...S&Category=273

How much did they sell in store? Is there a particular reason on why is iridiums better then standard copper or it is just a fad? I have just recently notice people begin to talk a lot about iridiums plugs but doesn't know what dffierence does it make?

Andy

dubcaps

hey taylor, why iridiums? they cost a lot more and dont really last any longer, plus you cant find them. just stick with NGK BUR9EQPs (p for platinum) all around and call it a day. advance usually has them in stock as well. also if you can't find the platinums just do what josh does and run the basic BUR9EQs and change them more often.

tookwik

I think this is what I'm going to do. I talked with Advanced Auto and they can order the BUR9EQP's tomorrow and have them in on Thursday... So its looking like on Friday after all of my tests I'm going to be installing my new spark plugs. I've never done this by-the-way so if anybody has any helpful hints or pointers, please let me know.

Oh and apparentlly the Iridium plugs are suppose to have a stronger spark and lost longer than the Platinum's.

GTUser

Any number of people have probably done this more recently than I have, Johny, Steve, Ken, Dave, Josh, Rck or Jeremy. Mine is no FD but I've changed the spark plugs once in my car, right after I bought it and got it running. It will be awkward getting to the plugs, you'll need a good spark plug socket, the correct size for the plugs, and a rachet and a sparkplug gap guage.

Just be careful about getting the old ones out without breaking the ceramic insulator and dropping something in the rotor housing. You might have to break them loose with a rachet and then use the socket off the rachet to back the plugs out of the housing, do this by hand if possible. Expect that there will always be one that creates a problem, that one that you pulled the core out of my give you a problem.

-Do you know the gap that is needed for the plugs? A haynes manual should tell you that. You can use a gap guage to measure the gap. The easiest way to guage the gap is to tap the spark plug on a solid surface and slide the guage thru the gap until it gets a tad snug as it passes thru the gap.

-First lub the threads with a little grease to prevent corrosion at the threads. Also when you tighten the new ones down, don't over tighten or you'll again be subject to cracking the insulator. As above, start by hand, if possible, and tighten the last turns with the rachet.

There is nothing difficult about the job, just be patient and gentle.

GTUser

The thing about trying to encourage a local auto parts store to carry rotary items is that to make it worth their time and effort we'd all have to agree to use that store whenever we could and when possible call ahead incase they need a couple of days to get the supplies in. I've found that you can usually find a better retail price on the internet but by the time you pay shipping it is usually no cheaper and then you have to factor in the wait time to get it. I've bee waiting for an Apexi intake kit for my car for two weeks. Its coming from California by UPS ground, I'm saving all of $5.00 on the best local source, Luckily it wasn't a critical part or repair. I understand what Josh is now going thru, the frustration of having to wait so long when your baby is in pain!

We might be able to find someone who is willing to help us on the routine parts and stuff.

JKM

Yeah, that's one of the reasons I"m trying to get a second car now. I NEED a car, there are no buses here, and if I were to take a taxi I might as well not go to work to begin with. Like right before last Christmas, my clutch went without warning. Totally gone. I wanted to get a ACT street strip clutch online, but since I couldn't wait a week for it to get here, I had to just get a stock Mazda one from the dealer...for the same price I could have gotten the ACT, just because I can't have my car down that long.

Same thing with tires... ****** blew on me on a holiday, had to take it to the one place still open (Sears) and pay $250 to have two new shitty tires put on the car. If I had a spare car, I could have gotten some good ones from tirerack and had a small shop put them in cheap.

But hey, with a second car, if something happens to one, I can drive the other while I wait on money and/or parts. Whee!

Johny zoom

iTrader: (5)

Bert: Our cars plugs dont get gapped, The pics are from leslie the rx I just got the previous had started taking the motor out so I finished the job. Also look at the VIR thread for a pic.

Steve How much was your dyno tuning and can you recommend a place. I will compensate you for your time if you help me set up my s-afc. It is showing 100% throttle about 50% down, that is the only problem so far.

Thanks Johny

tookwik

See, i've heard that they should be gapped... especially when using a non-rotary specific plug.

Smoken'

iTrader: (1)

Johny, the place that i go to is $110 an hour, and it is located here in Durham. The SAFC reading you are getting is normal. The TPS is setup funny, so yo will get a 100% reading the majority of the time. Just make sure you follwed the instructions for setting it up. Let me know when you want to come down and get on the dyno so i can make sure it fits my schedule.

As Johny said, you dont have to gap the plugs on an Rx7, the diodes are inset so there is nothing to gap. One thing i did for my TII was run four trailing plugs instead of two leading and two trailings. The advantage to this is that there not special plugs so you can get them at pretty much any parts store. The reason why you do this is because they are colder plugs. I would check to make sure you can do this on a FD. I would hate to be a giver of bad advice.

As far as changing the plugs, its about as straight forward as you can get. Take 'em out, put 'em back in. Make sure you use anti-seize instead of greese though. Socket size is 13/16s. Might want to get a set of mechanic gloves if you dont have a set already. There awesome to have especially for working in tight places.

Steve

GTUser

I didn't get the rotary specific plugs just the platinum tipped NGks. So I did have to gap them. That is good to know in the future I'll get the rotary plugs. Very clean housings, it appears to be in good shape. I saw your VIR post, I'm gonna have to go to one of the driver days next spring.

There was a post on the VIR site about needing some drivers up there for some track testing, is that what you are talking about in NOvember?

dubcaps

NGK BUR9EQPs are rotary specific, and they dont need to be gapped (b/c there isnt anything to gap).

as far as tips, make sure you have a 21mm deep well socket and a decent wrench. you should be able to get to all the plugs from the top. without removing anything. the front rotor is quite a bit harder to get to than the rear rotor but you should be able to get to the plugs with a little bit of finesse. if you still can't get to the front two, jack the car up and reach through the front left suspension A-arm.

after a little practice you should be able to change the plugs in 5-10 minutes.

Johny zoom

iTrader: (5)

Steve: can we get it tuned in an hour?
Bert: G&W is a porsche out fit that races out of VIR look up G&W on google and check out Fall Fling. Let me know if you are going to race I think the cost is 299 for both days Nov 20 AND 21
Johny

tookwik

Are you sure about that? I thought the only ones that are rotary specific are the stock ones (Mazda-NGK's) and all others that have flush mounted spark arches. Which I didn't think the BUR9EQ(P)'s had.

Smoken'

iTrader: (1)

yeah, i got mine done in about 45 minutes. It dosn't take long at all to do.

dubcaps

yeah the bur9eqps and bur9eqs are just a flat ended plug, nothing to gap

AntiVenom7

ok so here is a story of that 7 I went and looked at, probably nobody cares, but I am gonna tell it anyways.

So I pull up to see this car and the owner is one of those people that rubs you the wrong way. I coulda sworn when he introduced himself that I heard him say "I'm ******** Tom." but I could be mistaken. Anyhow, I would have expected a "garage kept" FC with 52K original miles to be in good shape outside. Well I was wrong. If this car was garaged it must have been kept under sun lamps, cuz that paint sure showed its age. I wont drag it out too long, but the worst of it was dents from every angle at least 20 good size dents, a shabbily painted decklid, cracked windshield, and a moderately faded paint job. The interior was clean for most part, a couple of stains on the carpet, but it was the highlight of the car. The fun starts here; I get in the car to crank it, put the key in and it starts cranking, and cranking, and cranking. Then ******** has the audacity to say, "give it a little gas" I actually stopped for a second and thought should I correct this idiot as to how a fuel injection system works, but I didnt. The car finally started but it didnt go into the quick warmup even though the engine was cold when i got there, then it proceeded to kind of loaf for a while til it warmed. While idling you could here it stumbling a little, I commented about it, to which he responded its an "88 what do you expect." Again, I bit my tongue, but thought to myself (what i dont expect is a car with 52K miles that you just finished saying runs like a champ to not crank right up, even the bondo-mobile cranked at the touch of the key and it was pushing 90K). Anyhow I decided to take it for a test drive, around the neighborhood since despite his repeated claims that he drives it all the time the car hasnt been licensed in over 4 years and I couldnt pull out on to a main road. Before I left he said to me "make sure not to get on it...cuz you know its in the neighborhood" So at this point I have already caught the guy being dishonest on a few smaller points not to mention just being an all around ******* with a major superiority complex. So I get a little further from his house and I floor it in 1st, it takes off like a champ until it hit 4K then it stopped so sharply I almost hit my head on the steering wheel. So I think hmmm, I try it again and ease it past 4K RPM with no problem. So I slow back down and go WOT just to come to a solid stop at 4K RPM again. So I am thinking, fuel problems, esp. with the hard start from earlier, could be TPS, or a few other things. I do some quick numbers in my head and being that the interior was really clean and the body was pretty much straight cept for the dents I figure I can give him about 2200-2300 for the car (he was only asking 2500) I get out of the car and say, "it's got a fuel problem doesnt it?" to which he replies, "I wouldn't know." which pissed me off WTF you dont know?! So I figure, what the hell its a good starting point for a project, some minor body work, some minor engine work, I will make an offer. So I said I can give you about 2K for it. The guy obviously isnt good at negotiating cuz he got mad and said well I have to ask my wife, blah, blah. anyhow, needless to say we didnt come to an agreement. If anyone is looking for a project and is willing to negotiate with a *****, it's worth about 2-2200 IMO (even that may be generous).

Sorry for the long post. Either way, I think I may just look into something non-rotary. Though, I have my eye Maybe an SUV or even something honda-acura. Ryan, you looking to sell that civic?

riceman1998

iTrader: (1)

Jmunilla,

Are you interest in 2002 Acura RSX? My wife want to sell it, only have 17000 miles in 2 years (between house, school and home) and still like brand new with no accident, dent or anything...PM me if interested

Andy

tookwik

that guys sounds like a retard. Did you mention to him that you had any knowledge what-so-ever of rotary engines??? He just really must be trying to sell the car. I like the part how he said "don't go too fast in the neighborhoods" because he didn't want you to find out what happens above 4k.

JKM

That guy should be kicked in the head. NOBODY buy that car! Unless he goes down to like...1200 or something.

AntiVenom7

I'd mentioned to him that I had a 94 and the way I found out it was for sale was because I dropped a flier on the windshield of the car. towards the end when i was walking he got kinda mad said something like anything you see nowadays is worth $2000-3000. My final stab before I walked out was well RX7s are my thing and I can tell you that isnt worth 2500. he just replied ok, well if you know anyone that is interested let me know. This guy was just a bonified ***, probably middle management for some corporation and thinks his **** don't stink and that he is smarter than everyone around him.

On another note if he brought the car down to $1200 I might buy it from him myself.

GTUser

This guy couldn't have been a genuine FC owner with an attitude like that. Maybe we all should go see the car and offer the guy $500 - $1,000 for the car and maybe he'd get the picture that it is after all a 16 year old car and ain't worth he thinks it is and get it down for a realistic price. It doesn't sound like there is nothing wrong with it that the Rotary Doctors can't help you with. I'd insist on a compression test. Remeber Ashraf's advice. You saw it parked somewhere? Did you get his phone number? He sounds like a UNC grad to me.

JKM

AntiVenom7

yea, well that is why I was willing to give him 2K for it. I dont think it was anything major. I cant decide whether or not to get something new or just breakdown and fix old faithful. I have gotten desparate I am even looking at an Integra GSR for pete's sake.