NC_FC3S

Steve, are you referring to that red S5 on traderonline.com ? That did look like a pretty good deal.

Keith

WolfpackFD3S

It doesn't have an intercooler problem, it has a couple small things but nothing i couldn't fix and nothing that keeps it from running. I need to recharge the AC, the speed sensor on the tranny needs to be replaced and there is low boost from the secondary turbo but i think it is a problem with the vacuum hoses. The owner has refered me to someone to help me with all of that. he hasn't had time to take care of it since he has another project car he is focusing on. I took it for a test drive and have checked it out multiple times, it is in awesome condition otherwise, runs great.

Smoken'

iTrader: (1)

I was speaking of another s5, one that hasn't been advertised, but is sitting at a little gas station out in Mariah. I think if it had been advertised, it would have been sold by now.

AntiVenom7

Steve, do you know how many miles are on the S5, and directions on where it is located. I am not familiar with Durham so talk to me like I am 3.

Smoken'

iTrader: (1)

I have no idea how many miles are on it. The car is located out in the middle of nowhere. I couldn't give you direction how to get there. I would be happy to take you out there an look at it though.

bond007

Two ways:
1) Cheap and not 100% accurate but a good indicator of motor health- get a standard compression test, the procedure should be somewhere on this website (remove the Schraeder valve) and watch the needle "bounce" to get the individual rotor faces. A blown motor is VERY obvious. Low compression can also be seen. If you want it done this way and don't want to buy the gauge, I could do this for you and interpret results, for a minimal amount since my spare time is increasingly growing scarce.
2) More expensive and more accurate - take to Mazda dealer and let them use their dedicated compression tester which will indicate the compression #'s for each of the three rotor faces. The problem here is that you have to deal with the Mazda stealer. The last person I referred to have this done had EXCELLENT test results with a healthy car and the stealer told him he needed a new engine despite the numbers indicating a healthy motor. In other words, let them do the test, pay them, but don't listen to ANYTHING they tell you. I don't think all dealers have the tester, call ahead to find out.

In either case, you should try to decarbonize the engine as much as possible before having this done.

Young-ones, you should now cover your ears and eyes...

My preferred method is to take my car to the track and drive it hard under load. It has been repeatedly proven that compression comes up, power comes up, and you have fun and "fix" the car, albeit expensively. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.

Driving the car on the street at low rpms tends to build up carbon in motors and it isn't safe or possible to drive a car hard enough for extended periods of time to have the same effects (shift at the rev-limiter a few times albeit without garnering attention from Johnny-Law and it helps keep your motor cleaner but it isn't the same).

The other way is to use the ATF/water treatments. I should mention that there is a minute risk in a very heavily carboned motor that a piece of carbon could break loose and could wreak havoc with the motor, but that's akin to saying that you should stay at home your whole life...

I also recommend that before you start doing power modifications that you get a baseline dyno run to know what the car is putting out in terms of power and it verifies that all of the systems that contribute to running the car are in good order (6-ports in an NA car, turbo(s) in the FC/FD, as well as the catalytic converter in all cars but it is usually obvious to a competent owner/mechanic if any of those aren't working).

Best regards,
--Ashraf

bond007

North Durham/Bahama? I saw an FC out there several months ago with aftermarket wheels.

GTUser

Great to hear about your new FD. Always good to have another FD in the flock, makes a nicer 7 o'clock parade at the Drive-ins. We have a guy that might help on the AC recharge but I'll not commit him, let him volunteer if he is interested.

Can you make the next drive-in on 9/25 with your car, we'd all enjoy looking it over. Invite the prev owner to the meets if he hasn't already found out about'em.

GTUser

If y'all are going out there this weekend let me know, I'd like to drive out just to find the area and see the car. Besides its been a whole week since I've seen Steve and 3 weeks for Josh. I miss you guys.

PM me if y'all can make it happen this weekend. I might drive over to Durham to see the MM FD as well.

WolfpackFD3S

Yeah i will be there next meet. The previous owner referred me to Ashraf (for those of u who know him) he is going to help me out with most of the little repairs. Help with recharging the AC would be great though.

GTUser

Great summary, I'm still leary of the ATF or water tricks. I don't know it just doesn't seem like a good thing for the engine and ignition system. I like the hard driving alternative the best.

I had Al Smith do a compression test on my engine right after I bought the car and they charged $65, 1 hr of labor, but that was several years ago. But Ashraf is right about not letting them so any work on the car.

bond007

I have used those tricks before with good success on all generations of car with little negative impact aside from the copious smoke that is produced. One of the first times I heard about the ATF trick was at the MSCW expo at VIR in 2000 where Dave Barninger mentioned it. If a motor builder with his experience recommends something, folks should agree with them.

Funny, it was Al Smith that was who I was alluding to. They are one of the better dealers, but I'm finding that unless it is someone like Malloy that actually has a clue how to deal with intelligent customers, or they have a really good mechanic, that dealers in general are clueless.

NC_FC3S

Ashraf and Bert, thanks for the info . (and everyone else). I'm in no hurry to do any compression tests as the car runs great. But I will certainly consider doing a check soon to see what the true health is. It seems like pretty sound advice.

On another note, my Racing Beat cat-back system is arriving from UPS today. I'm pretty excited about it. Especially after seeing several FCs with the same system at the last Drive In. Wish I had gotten my Vert dynoed while totally stock, but unfortunately I never did.

Keith
90 FC Vert

Smoken'

iTrader: (1)

It actually is out in that vacinity, but it has stock wheels on it. The guy i selling it because he got the car from a guy that owed him money.

Josh, I'm going off this afternoon to NOPI in atlanta and wont be back untill monday. PM me you # and i will call ya when i get back.

Steve

blacksupra94

Al smith fixed my rx7 better than clean and fast did

dubcaps

what was wrong with it ?

Smoken'

iTrader: (1)

Anybody need some FD twin turbo's? The mechanic told me that they were working fine, it just had an external oil leak, but the guy wanted new ones anyways. Has mimimal shaft play. Accepting offers if anybody wants 'em.

Steve

Johny zoom

iTrader: (5)

Look Josh:

You guys are right about running a car to get the carbon out: After a weekend at VIR MyT2 ran better than ever.

blacksupra94

the 5k rpm thing, but it still wount go over 5k in third gear, anybody have an idea?

riceman1998

iTrader: (1)

Hey Ashraf, Welcome back.

Anyone should listen to Ashraf and get a compression test at least once every 1-2 years.
It could safe you alot of money in the long run.

Al Smith is now charging $110 or so to do a compression test.

Andy

AntiVenom7

where is a decent TII when you want one?!?! I have been looking at NAs but secretly hoping that a decent TII would show up. Oh well just thought I would rant.

GTUser

Thanks for the update, like I said it was about 4 years ago when they tested mine, both rotors were tested low but since I'd just gotten it I wanted to drive it for awhile before getting the engine rebuilt. Anyway I was able to drive it before one of the rotors lost a seal. Luckly when it went out it didn't damage the housings.

Anyway, nice to hear from you Andy, when are you gonna bless us with your Very Red FD again? Come show it off against all those black and MB beauties.

bond007

Yes. Pay me to fix it like you should have when we talked about this issue several months ago.

--Ashraf

bond007

Edit: I apologize if the above is too blunt (it's all that came to mind and that was just me being succint) but I'm rather disheartened you went to both of those places despite all the prior warnings about Clean and Fast AND Mazda dealers before giving me a crack at it. You would have saved yourself valuable time and money that you could have put towards other maintenance or modifications.

You know where to find me if you want it fixed.

GTUser

Hey Ashraf, If you want to solicit business then buy advertisement space on this forum. Don't use this forum to solicit business. If you want to help a member with a problem, then volunteer your expertise to teach them what causes the problem and how to fix it, but don't come on here with this attitude.

As a forum member, if you know what the problem is then offer him your advice and let him chose to fix it himself or bring it to you for repairs or adjustment. If you don't want to assist a club member then don't reply as above. I think Icemark and rotorhead set a great example on how to keep their commercial venture seperate from their forum entries.