Saturdays In Raleigh, Nc
#1177
Senior Member
It doesn't have an intercooler problem, it has a couple small things but nothing i couldn't fix and nothing that keeps it from running. I need to recharge the AC, the speed sensor on the tranny needs to be replaced and there is low boost from the secondary turbo but i think it is a problem with the vacuum hoses. The owner has refered me to someone to help me with all of that. he hasn't had time to take care of it since he has another project car he is focusing on. I took it for a test drive and have checked it out multiple times, it is in awesome condition otherwise, runs great.
#1178
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by NC_FC3S
Steve, are you referring to that red S5 on traderonline.com ? That did look like a pretty good deal.
Keith
Keith
#1181
Post quality not quantity
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 521
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by NC_FC3S
Ashraf, I just read your above posting about having the compression checked on a regular basis. Having never done this, I'm curious how simple the process is and where /who could do it... And of course how much $$... This is probably a simple task for some of you guys, but something I've never done. My 90 vert is running great (knock on wood), but I'm curious as to the true "health" of my rotary. Any advise is appreciated.
Keith
Keith
1) Cheap and not 100% accurate but a good indicator of motor health- get a standard compression test, the procedure should be somewhere on this website (remove the Schraeder valve) and watch the needle "bounce" to get the individual rotor faces. A blown motor is VERY obvious. Low compression can also be seen. If you want it done this way and don't want to buy the gauge, I could do this for you and interpret results, for a minimal amount since my spare time is increasingly growing scarce.
2) More expensive and more accurate - take to Mazda dealer and let them use their dedicated compression tester which will indicate the compression #'s for each of the three rotor faces. The problem here is that you have to deal with the Mazda stealer. The last person I referred to have this done had EXCELLENT test results with a healthy car and the stealer told him he needed a new engine despite the numbers indicating a healthy motor. In other words, let them do the test, pay them, but don't listen to ANYTHING they tell you. I don't think all dealers have the tester, call ahead to find out.
In either case, you should try to decarbonize the engine as much as possible before having this done.
Young-ones, you should now cover your ears and eyes...
My preferred method is to take my car to the track and drive it hard under load. It has been repeatedly proven that compression comes up, power comes up, and you have fun and "fix" the car, albeit expensively. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.
Driving the car on the street at low rpms tends to build up carbon in motors and it isn't safe or possible to drive a car hard enough for extended periods of time to have the same effects (shift at the rev-limiter a few times albeit without garnering attention from Johnny-Law and it helps keep your motor cleaner but it isn't the same).
The other way is to use the ATF/water treatments. I should mention that there is a minute risk in a very heavily carboned motor that a piece of carbon could break loose and could wreak havoc with the motor, but that's akin to saying that you should stay at home your whole life...
I also recommend that before you start doing power modifications that you get a baseline dyno run to know what the car is putting out in terms of power and it verifies that all of the systems that contribute to running the car are in good order (6-ports in an NA car, turbo(s) in the FC/FD, as well as the catalytic converter in all cars but it is usually obvious to a competent owner/mechanic if any of those aren't working).
Best regards,
--Ashraf
#1182
Post quality not quantity
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 521
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Smoken'
I have no idea how many miles are on it. The car is located out in the middle of nowhere. I couldn't give you direction how to get there. I would be happy to take you out there an look at it though.
#1183
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 2,021
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by SizzlerUSAF
I finally get to get that 93 FD that i have been looking at. It took the bank forever to clear my check so that i could write out a cashiers check to pay the dude for the car. So i am going to go pick up the car after i am done with classes tomorrow. Had ordered some reliability mods for it, i know the performance radiator came in so i will be putting that in this weekend. Should be lots of fun.
Can you make the next drive-in on 9/25 with your car, we'd all enjoy looking it over. Invite the prev owner to the meets if he hasn't already found out about'em.
#1184
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 2,021
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Smoken'
I have no idea how many miles are on it. The car is located out in the middle of nowhere. I couldn't give you direction how to get there. I would be happy to take you out there an look at it though.
PM me if y'all can make it happen this weekend. I might drive over to Durham to see the MM FD as well.
#1185
Senior Member
Yeah i will be there next meet. The previous owner referred me to Ashraf (for those of u who know him) he is going to help me out with most of the little repairs. Help with recharging the AC would be great though.
#1186
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 2,021
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by bond007
Two ways:
1) Cheap and not 100% accurate but a good indicator of motor health- get a standard compression test, the procedure should be somewhere on this website (remove the Schraeder valve) and watch the needle "bounce" to get the individual rotor faces. A blown motor is VERY obvious. Low compression can also be seen. If you want it done this way and don't want to buy the gauge, I could do this for you and interpret results, for a minimal amount since my spare time is increasingly growing scarce.
2) More expensive and more accurate - take to Mazda dealer and let them use their dedicated compression tester which will indicate the compression #'s for each of the three rotor faces. The problem here is that you have to deal with the Mazda stealer. The last person I referred to have this done had EXCELLENT test results with a healthy car and the stealer told him he needed a new engine despite the numbers indicating a healthy motor. In other words, let them do the test, pay them, but don't listen to ANYTHING they tell you. I don't think all dealers have the tester, call ahead to find out.
In either case, you should try to decarbonize the engine as much as possible before having this done.
Young-ones, you should now cover your ears and eyes...
My preferred method is to take my car to the track and drive it hard under load. It has been repeatedly proven that compression comes up, power comes up, and you have fun and "fix" the car, albeit expensively. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.
Driving the car on the street at low rpms tends to build up carbon in motors and it isn't safe or possible to drive a car hard enough for extended periods of time to have the same effects (shift at the rev-limiter a few times albeit without garnering attention from Johnny-Law and it helps keep your motor cleaner but it isn't the same).
The other way is to use the ATF/water treatments. I should mention that there is a minute risk in a very heavily carboned motor that a piece of carbon could break loose and could wreak havoc with the motor, but that's akin to saying that you should stay at home your whole life...
I also recommend that before you start doing power modifications that you get a baseline dyno run to know what the car is putting out in terms of power and it verifies that all of the systems that contribute to running the car are in good order (6-ports in an NA car, turbo(s) in the FC/FD, as well as the catalytic converter in all cars but it is usually obvious to a competent owner/mechanic if any of those aren't working).
Best regards,
--Ashraf
1) Cheap and not 100% accurate but a good indicator of motor health- get a standard compression test, the procedure should be somewhere on this website (remove the Schraeder valve) and watch the needle "bounce" to get the individual rotor faces. A blown motor is VERY obvious. Low compression can also be seen. If you want it done this way and don't want to buy the gauge, I could do this for you and interpret results, for a minimal amount since my spare time is increasingly growing scarce.
2) More expensive and more accurate - take to Mazda dealer and let them use their dedicated compression tester which will indicate the compression #'s for each of the three rotor faces. The problem here is that you have to deal with the Mazda stealer. The last person I referred to have this done had EXCELLENT test results with a healthy car and the stealer told him he needed a new engine despite the numbers indicating a healthy motor. In other words, let them do the test, pay them, but don't listen to ANYTHING they tell you. I don't think all dealers have the tester, call ahead to find out.
In either case, you should try to decarbonize the engine as much as possible before having this done.
Young-ones, you should now cover your ears and eyes...
My preferred method is to take my car to the track and drive it hard under load. It has been repeatedly proven that compression comes up, power comes up, and you have fun and "fix" the car, albeit expensively. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.
Driving the car on the street at low rpms tends to build up carbon in motors and it isn't safe or possible to drive a car hard enough for extended periods of time to have the same effects (shift at the rev-limiter a few times albeit without garnering attention from Johnny-Law and it helps keep your motor cleaner but it isn't the same).
The other way is to use the ATF/water treatments. I should mention that there is a minute risk in a very heavily carboned motor that a piece of carbon could break loose and could wreak havoc with the motor, but that's akin to saying that you should stay at home your whole life...
I also recommend that before you start doing power modifications that you get a baseline dyno run to know what the car is putting out in terms of power and it verifies that all of the systems that contribute to running the car are in good order (6-ports in an NA car, turbo(s) in the FC/FD, as well as the catalytic converter in all cars but it is usually obvious to a competent owner/mechanic if any of those aren't working).
Best regards,
--Ashraf
I had Al Smith do a compression test on my engine right after I bought the car and they charged $65, 1 hr of labor, but that was several years ago. But Ashraf is right about not letting them so any work on the car.
#1187
Post quality not quantity
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 521
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by GTUser
Great summary, I'm still leary of the ATF or water tricks. I don't know it just doesn't seem like a good thing for the engine and ignition system. I like the hard driving alternative the best.
I had Al Smith do a compression test on my engine right after I bought the car and they charged $65, 1 hr of labor, but that was several years ago. But Ashraf is right about not letting them so any work on the car.
I had Al Smith do a compression test on my engine right after I bought the car and they charged $65, 1 hr of labor, but that was several years ago. But Ashraf is right about not letting them so any work on the car.
Funny, it was Al Smith that was who I was alluding to. They are one of the better dealers, but I'm finding that unless it is someone like Malloy that actually has a clue how to deal with intelligent customers, or they have a really good mechanic, that dealers in general are clueless.
#1188
Full Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Holly Springs, NC
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ashraf and Bert, thanks for the info . (and everyone else). I'm in no hurry to do any compression tests as the car runs great. But I will certainly consider doing a check soon to see what the true health is. It seems like pretty sound advice.
On another note, my Racing Beat cat-back system is arriving from UPS today. I'm pretty excited about it. Especially after seeing several FCs with the same system at the last Drive In. Wish I had gotten my Vert dynoed while totally stock, but unfortunately I never did.
Keith
90 FC Vert
On another note, my Racing Beat cat-back system is arriving from UPS today. I'm pretty excited about it. Especially after seeing several FCs with the same system at the last Drive In. Wish I had gotten my Vert dynoed while totally stock, but unfortunately I never did.
Keith
90 FC Vert
#1189
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by bond007
North Durham/Bahama? I saw an FC out there several months ago with aftermarket wheels.
Josh, I'm going off this afternoon to NOPI in atlanta and wont be back untill monday. PM me you # and i will call ya when i get back.
Steve
#1195
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey Ashraf, Welcome back.
Anyone should listen to Ashraf and get a compression test at least once every 1-2 years.
It could safe you alot of money in the long run.
Al Smith is now charging $110 or so to do a compression test.
Andy
Anyone should listen to Ashraf and get a compression test at least once every 1-2 years.
It could safe you alot of money in the long run.
Al Smith is now charging $110 or so to do a compression test.
Andy
#1196
Wouldn't Go If U Paid Me
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 3,036
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
where is a decent TII when you want one?!?! I have been looking at NAs but secretly hoping that a decent TII would show up. Oh well just thought I would rant.
#1197
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 2,021
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by riceman1998
Hey Ashraf, Welcome back.
Anyone should listen to Ashraf and get a compression test at least once every 1-2 years. It could save you alot of money in the long run.
Al Smith is now charging $110 or so to do a compression test.
Andy
Anyone should listen to Ashraf and get a compression test at least once every 1-2 years. It could save you alot of money in the long run.
Al Smith is now charging $110 or so to do a compression test.
Andy
Anyway, nice to hear from you Andy, when are you gonna bless us with your Very Red FD again? Come show it off against all those black and MB beauties.
#1198
Post quality not quantity
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 521
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by blacksupra94
the 5k rpm thing, but it still wount go over 5k in third gear, anybody have an idea?
--Ashraf
#1199
Post quality not quantity
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 521
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Edit: I apologize if the above is too blunt (it's all that came to mind and that was just me being succint) but I'm rather disheartened you went to both of those places despite all the prior warnings about Clean and Fast AND Mazda dealers before giving me a crack at it. You would have saved yourself valuable time and money that you could have put towards other maintenance or modifications.
You know where to find me if you want it fixed.
You know where to find me if you want it fixed.
Last edited by bond007; 09-18-04 at 12:56 PM.
#1200
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 2,021
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by bond007
Yes. Pay me to fix it like you should have when we talked about this issue several months ago.
--Ashraf
--Ashraf
As a forum member, if you know what the problem is then offer him your advice and let him chose to fix it himself or bring it to you for repairs or adjustment. If you don't want to assist a club member then don't reply as above. I think Icemark and rotorhead set a great example on how to keep their commercial venture seperate from their forum entries.
Last edited by GTUser; 09-18-04 at 12:58 PM. Reason: change errors