Turbo II

iTrader: (1)

You should have known with me and Phil involved.... I thought it was funny, flacid apex seal syndrome...

speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

I was perusing some photos on Myspace, and I gotta say, this kid scares the **** outta me.

speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

Yeah I guess I should have known you and Fil better, haha.

Turbo II

iTrader: (1)

That kid looks abused or something... like whomever is takig the pic is not someone she likes!!!

Yeah we were joking around and somehow ended up coming up with that idea... was funny at the time I swear man! But really, we did toss around ideas about the car and it's just damn confusing as to what's up with it.

darktritium

She probably just hates being photographed.

darktritium

It's really not THAT funny. FASS affects more rotaries than we think.

HAHA!

Sorry Eric, but if you don't laugh, you'll cry.

speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

I did laugh, but I was already crying...have been for almost two months now.

1RX7DRIVER

anyone know anyone that needs a fc tranny?

anewconvert

iTrader: (1)

S5? S4? Tii? Na?


Bc

1RX7DRIVER

na s4 or s5 have an extra one in the way

phoenix_flame

Eric
Hate to say it bro, but you're easter egging. You know what that is, I'm sure. I learned that term in the navy, so the flight line knows it I'm sure. Don't just take what everyone says as gospel. Do the Trouble shooting method to pinpoint the area of the problem(fuel, fire, compresssion/air) then go from there. I know you've been trying, but be patient :/ Did you try testing for spark on the chassis one plug at a time to make sure she's getting fire? What about a compression test for seals/compression in general? Have you tried to get an o2 sensor on the tailpipe to see if she's burning rich or lean on the exhaust side(fuel)? If it's rich, plenty of fuel, if it's lean, not enough fuel. Just my 2 cents. If you've already tried these things then diregard my ramblings, but it's a good start, imo. Good luck bro. Sorry I can't be more help.

speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

If by Easter-egging you mean swaptronics (which of course is swapping different components until it works), then yes, that's what I'm doing, haha. I've never heard the term Easter-egging, but I don't work RIGHT ON the flightline either, I'm in a backshop, so that may be why I've never heard of it. I've done everything you mentioned except for hooking up the O2 sensor, mostly because I'm pretty sure all our noses can tell it's running rich, and also because I didn't think about it, haha. I've checked so many different things it's unreal. It seems like all the results contradict each other. I check for spark and it's good. I check compression and it's not that great but good enough that the engine should run. I check for fuel, got that. I have all three. THEN, the car will only run sometimes, not all the time. I mean come on, what's up with that?!

For the record, I'm not swapping any parts unless I believe them to be bad OR unless I have an extra one laying around. I can't afford to swap everything in there right now just for the sake of swaptronics.

AntiVenom7

if you were gonna do that. i would suggest LS1 swaptronics. wherein you replace the problematic rotary engine, with the indestructible LS1.

speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

Pipe down Vader.

phoenix_flame

Or, if you're too broke for LS1, you can go for the mildly retarded, overweight step-brother vette, like me(LT1)

anewconvert

iTrader: (1)

Settled on the LT1 huh?


If you never plan on going beyond intake/exhaust on that car (or nitrous) then you made a good choice. The only word of caution is dont drive through puddles or get water on the front of the engine. opti-Spark is a real *****, and water will fry it. In fact, find a functioning replacement now. that way when it does blow you have another one sitting around. It will go.... eventually.


If you plan on modding it out (heads, intake manifold, spark) then I would look into a first gen.


Wait........ I thought you were staying carbed.


BC

anewconvert

iTrader: (1)

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...64401_-1_10271

For instance. If you had $1700 sitting around, or down the line.

BC

phoenix_flame

Yeah, we settled on LT1. We WERE gonna go carb'd, but for hp per mpg, FI just makes more sense. As for the optispark, already planned on that. Replacing it with something like an enclosed MSD system, replacing the water pump gasket and possibly going with an electronic water pump at the same time to eliminate some of the parasitic losses. We'll be pretty much staying as stock as possible. Walboro 255 will more than likely be the fuel pump, replacing all the fuel lines(obviously), fabbed drive shaft, eliminate EGR, tunercat.com's system to map out the comp and eliminate the VATS(that will provide adjustable mapping via laptop for tuning down the road IF we decide to go better and faster)...that's about it. Trying to find a cheap, driveable donor car with the LT1 and T56 now though. It'll be a couple months till we can afford one, but about 2 months from now we'll be on the hunt for a cheap 94-97 Camaro Z28. Don't tell, but I think we'll be DDing it until we can afford all the other parts...shhh...it's a secret

speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

Well, she still no start

darktritium

Hayabusa in a go-kart!

anewconvert

iTrader: (1)

Forgot to mention. My phone is a piece of ****. The charger is nearly broken to the point where I have to place is PERFECTLY into the charge slot to get it to charge. Most nights it falls out and my phone is at 1 bar all night long.


Which verizon do you work at?

BC

Turbo II

iTrader: (1)

ARRRG!!!! So compression, fuel and spark have been checked and are working fine. What's left? Any vacuum leaks or such that might screw with it? I'm sure you've been over the wiring and that's correct. Is it even trying to run or just turning over?

I'm to the point I wish I could take a couple of days off and come down there just to turn wrenches and toss ideas at you or something man. Damn, I'm feeling for ya.

AntiVenom7

timing? i will be down at range 1 this weekend which is near f'ville. i can bring the crank angle sensors. after that we may need to tow the bitch to rotorsports.

phoenix_flame

Cary, crossroads. 2003 Walnut street, right next door to Bob Evans(in the same building) at the Crossroads/Walnut exit off 64. I don't work till Thursday, but if you call me I'll give one of the other guys a call to make sure they have the phone in and I'll have them set you up if you can't wait till Thursday...if you CAN wait till Thursday, just lemme know. We get our shipments in on Thurs, so if you come in after 4pm I can set one aside. We almost always get theose phones in on the shipment.

darktritium

Me thinky you have stupid timing issue or CAS no worky. You say spark? Check for sparky at plugs? Sparky? Move to step 2. Pull EGI fuse(s) or disconnect CAS and crank a few times. Puff puff puff, rinse, repeat? Yes? Move to step 3. Check fuel pressure. Fuel pressure gauge. BC, please chime in and obliterate my fuel pressure gauge idea with a simple approach. Beyond this stuff? Check timing. Use deadly ray gun and point at engine while hooked up to sparky wires. Start car. If no can start car at all, take breath. Perhaps you should use a mechanic stethoscope to hear if the injectors are working while hooked up. You check for voltage and current of wires attached to injectors? This is starting to look more and more like an electrical problem. I'm seriously thinking ECU related. There is no damn way that you have the three things for s'mores making (fire!) and your car can't run unless they aren't in a stoichiometric ratio or even remotely near the ideal 14.7 a/f (right?) ratio. Maybe you are dumping ridiculous amounts of fuel into your engine when cranking. Here's what I think. You should have a switch for your fuel pump like me. Wire up a swith to turn off your fuel pump at will. Leave the switch off while you crank the engine. Build compression for about 3 seconds and flip the switch on while still cranking. If she cranks up just fine then you have a fuel related issue. Not necessarily the fuel pump, but maybe your ECU is Melba. Melba toast. Toasted!

Edit: If you crank and she fires up you can also have a compression issue if you HAVEN'T checked for it, which you have. The puff puff puff part is for a single rotor housing with ONE spark plug in the housing. (Be sure to have the CAS disconnected or the EGI fuse(s) pulled.)