AntiVenom7

haha, i dunno about that, you might have me. what are evos running in the quarter? i am running about 12.6-12.7......for now. bwahahahahaha.

darktritium

Pfft. It would have to be a rolling start though. I would like to keep the transfer case. Turning radius is supposed to be a bitch though. Something like 37.8 feet.

AntiVenom7

with a rolling start on an evo you will lose its biggest advantage. although, i am NA, so i dont have the high end pull it will be interesting.

that reminds me, i was challenged to a race by a 15 year old who is getting his daddy's 2002 M3(actually a relatively cool kid). I told him I would only race for pinks. haha. it is a stock M3, with a totally inexperienced driver. i hope he falls for it. i needs a bimmer. haha (not that his old man would sign it over). maybe i should just race him for money.

AntiVenom7

1/4 mile notes

EVO 8: ~13.5sec
M3: ~13.4sec

i guess it would be one of those situations where I wouldnt want to miss a shift. haha

darktritium

Get a few goodies for less than $1000 and you are smacking people around though. I would probably lose the biggest advantage if it was a rolling start, but the turbo may help out.

AntiVenom7

i have a lot of respect for the EVOs and M3s. a modded EVO is no joke.

i am gonna throw headers, wider tires, nitrous, and a tune on my car by next summer. i wanna hit 11s. then i will be happy. very few street cars can claim 11sec quarter mile times.

darktritium

Tune FTW. I think that is the single most underrated thing that can be done for a car in terms of HP and torque. You could also potentially gain a bit as far as MPG are concerned. Nitrous...enh. For some reason I just don't like nitrous. I completely understand the idea behind it and yeah, it has an application at the strip, but I just can't get past the idea of using something that is resource dependent. (Yes, I know that gasoline itself is like this, but NONE of us can run our cars without SOME type of fuel.)

darktritium

Speaking of your car, how is inspection handled with a car that has an engine swap? Do they do it based on the age of the engine? If so, how can they tell the age? Would headers make it illegal if they know they are aftermarket?

anewconvert

iTrader: (1)

Its a pre-OBD II car so inspection is just a safety inspection. So long as he has a catalytic converter, and the smog equipment that came with the LS1 then all he has to do is have functioning lights, horn and seatbelts to pass.


BC

speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

Hell yeah I live, haha. I did post last night too ya know, haha. AND you and I PMed today buddy!

Yeah well, I wasn't able to check for spark today cause I still couldn't get the remote start switch to work, but I did put a little MM oil in the plug holes to make sure they were coated for compression's sake, and I did check the main fuse and make sure the fuel pump was working to make sure I was getting fuel...AND I put in new spark plugs. NO LUCK, STILL WON'T START! I guess I'll be shopping for plane tickets tomorrow. Dammit, I don't have the money for all this ****.

speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

I notice you didn't mention suspension bushings...any reason why? BWAHAHAHA. Sorry, I think it was all the LS1-related prodding, haha.

AntiVenom7

in johnston county they only do safety inspection. they don't even pop the hood on my car, much less check for cats. i think you are right, that they are supposed to check, but they don't.

AntiVenom7

i agree about the tune. disagree about the nitrous. only because of this; the car has plenty of power for anything i need around town, and to handle 90%+ of cars (even more so when i get the headers, and tune). the thing i like about nitrous is that A) i can activate it when i want for an extra 100-150HP, B) i get to have a purge, for intimidation, hahaha.

i was talking to my brother, and he is actually encouraging me to cam it instead. i dunno. i don't want to lose my MPGs with a cam. yet another reason why nitrous is good.

bad side of nitrous is, that while on the giggle juice, leaning out can cause destruction. kinda like in a rotary

AntiVenom7

ouch.

i would be waiting on bushing regardless of if it were rotary or LS1...so there.

speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

^Sorry bro, I had to say it. HAHA. It's not like we're still trying to get ready for DGRR so it shouldn't be AS bad now, haha. I know I'd be going crazy though, thinking there is absolutely no reason they can't send the damn things off and get them to the customers.

I'm at a crossroads man. Should I scratch together my money and get in on the PFC group buy (Apexi PFC for ~$800 this time) or should I get the money together for engine rebuild and all that? I'm about at wits end with this thing. You may say the engine isn't gone, but I'm not getting anywhere as it is, so I might as well pull the damn thing and rebuild it, so I know for sure. It doesn't look like I'll be driving it home either way anyway.

AntiVenom7

dude. i would say, that a running car is more important than a modified one. if you want to start on the engine rebuild, you know i am down. i will help.

along with guiding some of the young padowans to the darkside(chris and david) haha.

i know you are concerned about the pfc/commander being gone, and not finding one. i think you will be able to find one later, though. or something else.

speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

Well I'm just thinking of how much more expensive they'll be once they're discontinued. I've looked at other systems and can't really find a good one for under $1k, and most of them are around $1300 or so at that. I agree with you though, I'd rather have the car running again at least.

darktritium

The fact that you said "scratch together my money" scares me. I would work on actually having a strong foundation (your engine) before I started modifying things. $800? Save it and work toward a full rebuild kit. Maybe you should get a second opinion (i.e. Rotary Resurrection) before you rebuild it.

darktritium

I'm sure you'd be able to find another brand of EM later. I wouldn't worry so much about not being able to get one later.

speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

Well, I have about $500 of my tax return left if my memory serves me (most of the time it's on strike or something), and I just got paid, but I have to buy plane tickets to go home if I can't get the car running, so I'm not real sure how much I have to play with right now. That's why I say "scratch together". I mean, I don't have $3k or anything like that, but I should have enough to at least get the rebuild kit right now. And I still want to rebuild Josh's engine instead of mine at this point (for more than just the performance reason, I'll explain later), so I would need money to buy his engine, then to get whatever mods needed to support having a SP with intake and DP, not to mention if I get an exhaust, then I'll have to have the EMS. It's a slippery slope.

The reason I want to rebuild Josh's engine is because my engine SO many more miles on it than his does, and if I rebuild mine I have to worry so much more about E-shaft play, and other normal wear and tear that would be much worse on an engine with such high mileage. Whereas with his, it would almost be about just looking for damage real quick and replacing the seals if everything was good. Thus, less money/time/having to pay someone else to spec it, to rebuild his than mine. Make sense?

Oh, and there are all kinds of EM out there, I just heard so many good things about PFC, and the fact that most of the people I know of use it and tune it. There just seems to be more support for it than the others. In the case that I don't learn how to tune it myself. I want to learn, but I can see it happening.

darktritium

Hmm. I would definitely hold out on car stuff right now. Allocate the money for a plane ticket. Do you already know about the play in your e-shaft or are you just speculating? I think IF you were to go any route with this rebuild thing, I would go with Josh's engine. This really sucks for you. I still stand by the idea of getting a second opinion. I'm still set on your engine not really being the source of the issue, based on your compression numbers. You really might want to try posting a question in the 3rd gen section to get some better ideas. Check the timing. Really, three things are needed for the engine: fuel, spark and oxygen (of course compression comes into play too, but that's oxygen related). You said the fuel pump is working and you are getting spark. Maybe you sucked up bird and it's rotting in your intercooler? Ok, bad joke. Sorry. You have a "new" set of twins in, but even so, I don't think they would play a large role in the startup of your engine. Maybe spark isn't happening even though you think it is? After you try to start it, have you pulled the spark plugs to see if you smell fuel? Do you have the spark plug wires routed correctly? Vacuum lines?

JKM

On a more postive note, I FINALLY got my turn signals in the FB working again! It seems like a simple matter, but I've been fighting this thing for a year and a half to no avail. I have pulled the switch, rebuilt it, replaced it, rebuilt the replacement, resoldered the CPU, replaced the CPU and relay, replaced the bulbs, cleaned more contacts, probed everything with a multimeter...

And it came down to a rusted connector. Snip, replace, clean, left turn works again! JOY!

phoenix_flame

DUDE! I haven't seen that movie in forever! I used to LOVE that song!!!

mrthundercleese

Hey David, I just realized I still have FB parts in my trunk. When do you guys want them back? (you can optionally remove the 'when' from my question haha)

AntiVenom7

gotta love the easy fixes.