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I'm gonna put these pictures here. They're both taken at the exhaust port on the 2nd rotor. 1 was before I shot MMO in there and 2nd one after. I looks to me like I'm going to have to pull this motor since it looks like there's a ton of rust inside the rotor housing.
what do you guys think?
During storage was it possible for water to get in the rotor housings, did the carb have a hat on?
It did, however, when i took off the intake the freeze plugs appeared to be leaking coolant. It was small so i didn't think anything of it at the time. Is it possible for the that to rust the inside of the housing if left unchecked for 5 years?
Late to the game here but I'm with Ray, be patient and introduce lubricant into the intake, the spark plug holes and the exhaust to insure that all three chambers / seals get lubed, then try to gently turn it with a breaker bar on the front sprocket, sooner or later it will break free. I feel that most of the corrosion is on the face of the rotors, after all they are cast iron, and maybe the intermediate housings are not so bad. If you get it broken loose so it will turn over I would then reassemble and tow it behind a truck at about 35 mph in second gear. This will get it warm and soften the carbon ,helping the seals unstick and to seal , if they do ,who knows it may run again.
But it has a CRAZY high idle. Nikki carb. It's super loud, but there's no exhaust past the exhaust manifold. How do I tune this beast? All she needed was some MMO and spark plugs.
I also can't pull the Front rotor trailing plug, don't have a thin enough socket. Tips? I have another BR8EQ14 I need to install there.
I'm so excited friends. I damn near **** myself when she fired.
Sounds strong Quad, you just need to do a little tuning, congratulations!
There's an idle adjust screw on the backside of the carb, toward the firewall, accessed from the driver's side, it's part of the linkage. Turn it out and it should decrease your idle speed. Be sure to use that one, not the similar one over to the left that screws into the carb base, that's the mixture screw, you don't want to mess with that.
Not sure why you're having problems with that front trailing plug, that's the easiest one, any spark plug socket of the right size should do it.
Sounds strong Quad, you just need to do a little tuning, congratulations!
There's an idle adjust screw on the backside of the carb, toward the firewall, accessed from the driver's side, it's part of the linkage. Turn it out and it should decrease your idle speed. Be sure to use that one, not the similar one over to the left that screws into the carb base, that's the mixture screw, you don't want to mess with that.
Not sure why you're having problems with that front trailing plug, that's the easiest one, any spark plug socket of the right size should do it.
Previous owner used shallower plugs, so I can't get a bite on it.
Just to verify, this is the screw right? What should it be idling at?
And this is the muffler I have for the car. Should I use this, or sell it and get a RB header back set up? It only has the RB road race header installed currently, nothing past that. No pipes or anything.
The spark plugs appear to be BR8EQ-14 plugs. Odd that they're threaded in so far. You'll need a special thin wall socket to remove them. I've read about this issue in the past and have seen guys make a socket work by grinding down the outside to make it thin enough to fit in between the housing lip and the spark plug. There is a special socket produced that will work. I think Mazdatrix sells it if I remember correctly.
As for the exhaust, I 100% agree with Ray. Racing Beat or original are the best in my opinion. I've seen cheap aftermarket exhaust parts literally split from the heat of the exhaust temperature.
So, Racing Beat center section and muffler arrived today. Go to bolt it on. They don't line up with the header. Curious. I call Racing Beat. Likely, I have a 12A road race header for a different year, so now I have to order the correct header. I also have basically no stock hardware to mount, so I'm gonna need to source a bunch of stuff. Anyone know what size nut bolts the center section to the transmission? I also don't know what the stock situation is that holds the rear of the center section to the rubber exhaust hanger just in front of the rear wheel. I might need more stock advice, depending on how the muffler mounts up as well.
What a ride these rotarys are!
The spark plugs that were in the engine were BR8ES. I still haven't gotten the other one out, been to lazy to try. I don't wanna buy the $100 socket for one spark plug, so I may have to grind one down.
Well, Racing Beat got back to me. Header is correct. Now they're thinking motor or transmission mounts are incorrect somehow. Any ideas on how to check that or what to look for?
I'm guessing your cat back pipe isn't hung correctly, too snug to the undercarriage.
You may need to get under there and adjust the hangers for the pipe and muffler to get everything lined up.
So I loosened the nuts holding the exhaust manifold on, so I could get as much upward rotation as the bolt slop would allow, and I didn't get much higher than this. I think the engine is angled back towards the transmission side or this header is way out of spec.
So I loosened the nuts holding the exhaust manifold on, so I could get as much upward rotation as the bolt slop would allow, and I didn't get much higher than this. I think the engine is angled back towards the transmission side or this header is way out of spec.
Facebook is thinking that previous owner ran the car without the exhaust being attached, and the header heated and sagged under it's own weight. I'm gonna try to do the opposite. Run the car, put a jack with a block of wood on it under the header, and put juuuust a little upward pressure to see if it moves up.
Facebook is thinking that previous owner ran the car without the exhaust being attached, and the header heated and sagged under it's own weight. I'm gonna try to do the opposite. Run the car, put a jack with a block of wood on it under the header, and put juuuust a little upward pressure to see if it moves up.
The front cross member and mounts look good. It seems it must be the header itself.
06-13-23, 04:18 PM
