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I pulled the thermostat housing and there was a cork plugged into the thermostat hole. Pulled that out and installed a new thermostat.
From an old Racing Beat Tech Manual/Catalog:
"Mazda's water thermostat is a "by-pass" type. Therefore, if it is removed for racing, the hole below it must be plugged. Do not eliminate it for street use. A 1/2 inch NPT pipe tap can be run into the bypass hole, and a 1/2 inch NPT plug screwed in."
Also make sure those double alternator belts are tight. They drive the water pump also (this is something that I have to keep an eye on).
Raul if you build the 12A yourself, presumably with the assistance of your son, you'll save lots of money, learn lots of stuff and probably end up with a better motor than you would by trusting someone else to do it.
Not to mention pride of ownership and the special status that comes with being a Wankel Maker.
And I agree with Greg the Younger, that's one cool looking pick up truck.
That looks like a regular FB radiator in there, if so I might be able to help you out with a new one.
I was reading about radiator caps on the forum and found a post about call pressure. My truck came with a 1.3 bar (19lb) cap. It seems rotaries need to run a .9 (13lb) cap. I pulled the one out of the old trusty protege to see if would fit and it did, although a. 1.1 bar.
Drove for a couple miles and temp did go up past 180, but I could hear the water boiling in the reservoir once I turned it off. Going to see if I find a .9 one tomorrow band report my findings. Also used some K-seal.
At least now the pressure is releasing instead of swelling up the hoses.
Pulled the rear spark plugs out and they were dry.
hey guys. ran across this sweet RC rotary engine. i've seen other designs of single and twin rotors but nothing like this. 700 bucks. i was wanting to hear it but that didn't happen. https://www.stirlingkit.com/collecti...f=qb3z9qpzwvjj
Definitely. The guy pulled it out of a 79 savannah that he had purchased. Once he got the car, he saw that the body was beyond saving. He pulled the engine out and rebuilt it. Housings and rotors were in good condition. He also had about 5-6 engines mostly 13b and a couple of FBs.
Turns out the engine was rebuilt with a 13b Turbo 2 front counter weight and a S5 turbo 2 flywheel. It has an R5 front plate, a FN and FR rotor with the number 5 on the front rotor and 7 on the rear rotor.
Can I use a 83-85 26lb flywheel and the front counter weight from my other 12a?
Or lack of. I haven't been able to start the engine so I bought a harbor freight compression tester. Fresh battery, used the top hole and I was getting F 35-35-35 and R 40-40-40. The engine was cold so I expected be low. this explains not being able to start.
Next step, deflood because I'm pretty sure it's flooded, pull it out to the road with my truck to bump start it with oil in the engine. Here's hoping that works.
That's not good compression. Does the guy who sold it to you have an explanation?
PO of engine said in the past they had to pull start, with another car going 20mph to get the initial start. The issue was new apex seals on used housing caused for less compression, which made the engine difficult to initially start. This was his experience with rebuilding other engines. He has been very helpful with some of the questions I had, including the CW and flywheel.
He also suggested using MMO to try and get it started.
This evening she almost almost with regular oil.
06-26-22, 08:46 PM
